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Discussion Starter #1
Hopefully some of the Amsoil group guys will read the thread.

I bought my 2009 GSXR-600 about 2 months ago. I'm not sure what oil the previous owner was using but I'm pretty sure it wasn't synthetic and it wasn't premium oil. The bike had 1200 miles.

I put in Royal Purple Max Cycle 10W-40 as soon as I bought it and have almost put 3,000 miles on the bike. I also put a KN oil filter on.

The RP has been great and I think it's been a fine oil but after reading a lot around the web the Amsoil 10W-40 does read to get better marks than the RP.
http://www.syntheticlubes.com/pdf/g2156.pdf

So I'm writing really to see if any of the Amsoil guys could put me in the direction of possibly a good deal, and anything that I may need to do after taking out the max cycle, if anything.
 

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You'll like it. If you are going to buy enough, become a preferred member and you can get their "wholesale" prices, but you have to pay $10 for 6 months or $20 for the year I believe to become a preferred member.
 

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Not the powers that be, not even close.
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I used it once and I did not notice any type of difference. I used Mobil 4t in the track bike and saved it for analysis and then used AMSoil and save it for analysis. Which reminds me I need to find out what happened to that test. I have no idea what kind of results I will get from the analysis, and mileage and use is estimate about equal since it is a track bike and I have no idea really.
 

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Hopefully some of the Amsoil group guys will read the thread.

I bought my 2009 GSXR-600 about 2 months ago. I'm not sure what oil the previous owner was using but I'm pretty sure it wasn't synthetic and it wasn't premium oil. The bike had 1200 miles.

I put in Royal Purple Max Cycle 10W-40 as soon as I bought it and have almost put 3,000 miles on the bike. I also put a KN oil filter on.

The RP has been great and I think it's been a fine oil but after reading a lot around the web the Amsoil 10W-40 does read to get better marks than the RP.
http://www.syntheticlubes.com/pdf/g2156.pdf

So I'm writing really to see if any of the Amsoil guys could put me in the direction of possibly a good deal, and anything that I may need to do after taking out the max cycle, if anything.
Did you see who made that "comparison" :facepalm Of course Amsoil is going to come out on top in their own "study".

Amsoil isn't bad oil, it's about on par with other brand oils. Problem is that it's sold like Tupperware or Avon or Amway, through Multi Level Marketing - which is pretty much a legal pyramid scheme. That means that everyone and their grandmas are "dealers" and hype the shit out of it, aided by biased "studys". Plenty of people fail to see the obvious and parrot the hype.
 

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Nazi Lustful Faggot - hot for Hermann Göring & Cai
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Here is a link to the list of the JASO MA/MA2/MB (just in case only MA/MA1/MA2 oils are suitable for bikes with "wet" clutch) certified oils: http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV_LIST.pdf

I wonder why. Either amsoil didn't send a sample for testing or they didn't want to be in the list.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Did you see who made that "comparison" :facepalm Of course Amsoil is going to come out on top in their own "study".

Amsoil isn't bad oil, it's about on par with other brand oils. Problem is that it's sold like Tupperware or Avon or Amway, through Multi Level Marketing - which is pretty much a legal pyramid scheme. That means that everyone and their grandmas are "dealers" and hype the shit out of it, aided by biased "studys". Plenty of people fail to see the obvious and parrot the hype.
SVS yeah I did notice that they were basically the company who conducted that study. But I did my best to read through it and TRY to understand everything that was going on in each level.

By the end, though, the biggest characteristic that I noticed was that Royal Purple's oil came in nearly last in a LOT of the categories. And Royal Purple, I believe, cost me more in a case than Amsoil!

That is why I basically decided to change.

Ironhead-- yeah that's what I did, I just purchased the one year preferred member and a case... It ended up costing four more dollars than the amount for Royal Purple without shipping costs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
SSgt Mac -- nothing wrong with going the cheap route as far as I know, as long as you change the oil at the specific intervals as I'm sure you know. I'm running the premium oils now the best that I can because I want to ensure that I'm taking the best care of it while it has so few miles. (Dunno how long I'll keep using the expensive ones bottom line)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here is a link to the list of the JASO MA/MA2/MB (just in case only MA/MA1/MA2 oils are suitable for bikes with "wet" clutch) certified oils: http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV_LIST.pdf

I wonder why. Either amsoil didn't send a sample for testing or they didn't want to be in the list.
Unless it's somewhere else besides the "R" section, I didn't see Royal Purple on that list either :dunno.

I'm kind of in a hurry out the door this morning but when I get home this afternoon I'll scour through the list a little more diligently.
 

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Boredz Crackhead
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SSgt Mac -- nothing wrong with going the cheap route as far as I know, as long as you change the oil at the specific intervals as I'm sure you know. I'm running the premium oils now the best that I can because I want to ensure that I'm taking the best care of it while it has so few miles. (Dunno how long I'll keep using the expensive ones bottom line)
To each there own. Several guys on the forum run Rotella T6, some even track/race the bikes & it is a synthetic, and available at a decent price. I guess I should have clarified. I am not grabbing the bottom shelf, $1 a gallon stuff.

:cheers

 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
To each there own. Several guys on the forum run Rotella T6, some even track/race the bikes & it is a synthetic, and available at a decent price. I guess I should have clarified. I am not grabbing the bottom shelf, $1 a gallon stuff.

:cheers


Ah gotcha. Yeah I've seen quite a few fellas around the site recommend Rotella.

The Amsoil is supposed to come in today. Good timing too because I wanted to change the oil within the next 100 miles.

I'll come on after I've changed it and report the NONnoticeable difference heh.
 

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Anyone want to do a trackday or go camping?
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To each there own. Several guys on the forum run Rotella T6, some even track/race the bikes & it is a synthetic, and available at a decent price. I guess I should have clarified. I am not grabbing the bottom shelf, $1 a gallon stuff.

:cheers

I use this stuff in my truck. I was excited when i figured that i would have a cheap oil change and use a synthetic oil. Prob is that my truck takes 4 of those 1 gallon jugs :suicide
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Changed the oil last night.

Boy was it much easier this time. I had a relatively difficult time getting my oil filter off (I think that I torqued it too tightly last time), but I stayed patient and slowly twisted on it and lightly tapped it with a padded hammer a few times to loosen it up. I was so relieved when I got it it to start spinning heh. I dunno if the strap wrench can take the credit or my forceful cranks: it seems like as soon as I put the strap wrench on, and not even very tightly, it began to twist off.

And this time, I actually READ THE filter box BEFORE installing it (imagine that), and bought myself a 17mm wrench to tighten it down (last time I tried a wrong sized wrench [ didn't have the 17mm I needed]). Two out of 2 K&N filters though that didn't feel like 17mm. My 17mm wrench fit okay, but it was not snug, just like the last filter. I got it on, and had the simplest time torquing on the filter this time with the wrench. It just started to strip :)cursing) when I made two spins heh.

Barely spilled any oil either, just a few odd drops here and there.

Can't wait to go and test her out today!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Took the bike on about a 60 mile trip last night and couldn't really tell a difference. But the bike seemed to be running nice and smooth, just as it did though with the RP.

Perhaps time will tell!
 

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I have used the RP in every bike I have owned since 2003, including my race bikes. It is a great oil, and I have never had an engine failure of any kind in any of my bikes, and they have all seen quite the abuse and mileage.
 

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Antoranton, take heed because this is important.

The nut on the K&N filter is NOT for installation, ONLY REMOVAL.

The filter is supposed to be screwed on until the gasket (rubber ring on the filter) makes contact with the metal mounting plate of the engine. Once it makes contact, tighten it BY HAND 1 to 1 and 1/2 complete turns.

Thats all you need. Sometimes, over time, the gasket seats so well that it makes removal difficult by hand, which is why they weld the nut on there, to help break it loose.


Overtightening an oil filter is a sure way for it to either strip out or fall off on the highway and there goes your motor. (or at the very least, make your next oil change more of a headache than it should be)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Antoranton, take heed because this is important.

The nut on the K&N filter is NOT for installation, ONLY REMOVAL.

The filter is supposed to be screwed on until the gasket (rubber ring on the filter) makes contact with the metal mounting plate of the engine. Once it makes contact, tighten it BY HAND 1 to 1 and 1/2 complete turns.

Thats all you need. Sometimes, over time, the gasket seats so well that it makes removal difficult by hand, which is why they weld the nut on there, to help break it loose.


Overtightening an oil filter is a sure way for it to either strip out or fall off on the highway and there goes your motor. (or at the very least, make your next oil change more of a headache than it should be)
Ah interesting. I will keep that in mind next time thanks!
 

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No problem. Worked at a quick-lube place right out of highschool, so I've removed/installed hundreds of filters.

Also I'm guessing you meant the nut on the filter started to strip out, not the actual threads on the filter (internal). They probably designed it like this on purpose so that if somebody did do the whole "crank it down with a wrench", the nut would go before the filter or motor filter mount was damaged.


Strap wrench is also the best tool for removing filters, stay away from the big filter pliers, they're better at puncturing the filters and leaking oil everywhere than at removing them :twitch
 

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been running ams oil in everything i own since 2006 or earier. especially in my truck, love those 1yr/12000 mile oil change intervals.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
No problem. Worked at a quick-lube place right out of highschool, so I've removed/installed hundreds of filters.

Also I'm guessing you meant the nut on the filter started to strip out, not the actual threads on the filter (internal). They probably designed it like this on purpose so that if somebody did do the whole "crank it down with a wrench", the nut would go before the filter or motor filter mount was damaged.


Strap wrench is also the best tool for removing filters, stay away from the big filter pliers, they're better at puncturing the filters and leaking oil everywhere than at removing them :twitch

Yeah I just meant the nut head started to round off some. I spent a bit of time as an aircraft mechanic in the service so I can normally "feel" when or if I'm about to strip out a screw or bolt. Torquing the filter down, I used my hand until it wasn't comfortable and that's when I used the wrench, and very gingerly at that <I did not want to strip it heh>. I only tightened the filter two full rotations after the gasket was touching the mounting surface (that is what my manual says). I marked the filter and made sure that I went exactly 2 rotations.

Last time when I torqued my filter down I was using a strap wrench and that did not go over well. I found that using the nut and my hand was much easier.
 
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