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Sounds like KevinTX got the answer for the 04-05.
Here is an experpt from a PM ----


alright its a 100ohm 1/4 watt 5% tolerance resistor. radio shack part number: 271-1311. I soldered one end to the orange/yellow wire on the harness plug end and soldered/spliced the other end into the solid red power wire on the same harness end. from what i can tell it works just fine. no FI codes are coming up anymore and the bike starts fine. Its my track bike to i dont have any time on it to see how its hold up to the bike actually running, but i think it will be fine.
 

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alright, i did everything it said in fevers description, and the guages came right on as soon as i flipped the switch, and the gas pump turned on, but i hit the starter and.....nothing. any hints as to where the problem might be? I checked the connections and soldering, and that's alright.

 

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the post is meant for "removing of the key" what abt removing of the immobilizer? will it affect anything? Lets say if i were to remove the key, do i need to remove the immobilizer? will it still work even though i did the re-rewiring? do help me out to figure this.
 

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PB @ SkinnyMotorspor said:
and you can burn up the ECU by doing that, I'm told... Use the resistor, luke...
Don't know where you heard that one from. lol I have the Yosh race harness and Yosh ECU. Been that wasy for almost 3 years now. No problems.
 

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FlatulentDan said:
Sounds like KevinTX got the answer for the 04-05.
Here is an experpt from a PM ----


alright its a 100ohm 1/4 watt 5% tolerance resistor. radio shack part number: 271-1311. I soldered one end to the orange/yellow wire on the harness plug end and soldered/spliced the other end into the solid red power wire on the same harness end. from what i can tell it works just fine. no FI codes are coming up anymore and the bike starts fine. Its my track bike to i dont have any time on it to see how its hold up to the bike actually running, but i think it will be fine.
uh so u mean do everything as mentioned on the original write up, but use this size OHM resistor? Of coarse make sure you have the correct wire colors since they maybe different.

I have a 05 750 repair manual so it tells me the color codes and what not
 

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no body got an input for the 2004-2005 set ups huh?

I think i actually did it right, but its not doing a single thing
 

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FlatulentDan said:
Sounds like KevinTX got the answer for the 04-05.
Here is an experpt from a PM ----


alright its a 100ohm 1/4 watt 5% tolerance resistor. radio shack part number: 271-1311. I soldered one end to the orange/yellow wire on the harness plug end and soldered/spliced the other end into the solid red power wire on the same harness end. from what i can tell it works just fine. no FI codes are coming up anymore and the bike starts fine. Its my track bike to i dont have any time on it to see how its hold up to the bike actually running, but i think it will be fine.
My 05 600 everything is working except the bike won't start and I'm still getting the FI light...any suggestions would be apreciated.
 

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Does anyone have a solid update for the 03-04 1000's to make this mod? We're currently setting up a race bike and seems some people are still having issues with the newer style by the looks of it. Don't have time to meter everything out right now, but if I get the chance that's what I'll be doing, then draw up a diagram or something. But if someone has detailed (de)structions for this model it would be appreciated...
 

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shaard said:
Does anyone have a solid update for the 03-04 1000's to make this mod? We're currently setting up a race bike and seems some people are still having issues with the newer style by the looks of it. Don't have time to meter everything out right now, but if I get the chance that's what I'll be doing, then draw up a diagram or something. But if someone has detailed (de)structions for this model it would be appreciated...
Yea does anybody have anything for the 03-04 1000?? I need help. I'm getting the C42 code and don't have time to figure it out. Lemme know if you guys got any info. Thanks
 

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gixeruk said:
I know alot of you are in the states, but does any one know how to run a race bike without the ignition on a '05 1000 which has the key coded to the ECU? (USA and Canada does not have this...don't you have bike theft??) Can't afford race ecu etc. Really want to dump the heavy ignition but how? Does it still need a resistor too? Cheers guys!!!
If you use the Yoshi wiring loom and ECU then you can get rid of it... but this is not a cheap solution.
What you can do is cut the lower part of the ign barrel off and keep the key and the immobilisor ring, you can then hard wire the bike up as suggested here by using the remote switch etc.
Then relocat the barrel and key to under the seat in the rear.. long job and not easy but if this is what your after then think this is the only way..

Hope this helps :wait
 

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ebmang2 said:
I was wondering if anyone had removed the igmition key from their race gsxr. I have eliminated the side stand, clutch and gear position sensors and the bike starts fine, but I cannot make the bike start by bypassing the key. Any help would be welcomed <font color="blue"> </font> <font color="white"> </font>
Ok, anyone got a set-by-step and what resistor (if any?) for removing sidestand/clutch from the sequence on an 1k2?

:banana

Dave
 

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uh with the clutch is just putting a wire conntecting the two together completing the circuit all the time.. the kick stand is the same I believe.
 

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skibum91 said:
Yea does anybody have anything for the 03-04 1000?? I need help. I'm getting the C42 code and don't have time to figure it out. Lemme know if you guys got any info. Thanks
did u put it into dealer mode
 

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BoneShag said:
the post is meant for "removing of the key" what abt removing of the immobilizer? will it affect anything? Lets say if i were to remove the key, do i need to remove the immobilizer? will it still work even though i did the re-rewiring? do help me out to figure this.

The immobilzer seems to operate from a coded magnet.
There is an antenna in the ECU.
That suggests that it is picking up a non wired signal .There is a leed wire on the ignition but its seems to be a supply for the immobilizer warning light.
If thats the case you could just zip tie the key to the subframe.
Don`t know enough about auto electrics for a difinitive answer, nor have I spent enough time invetigating it as yet but I broke my ignition in a recent highside so I might have to find a work around shortly.
 

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closetotheedge said:
The immobilzer seems to operate from a coded magnet.
There is an antenna in the ECU.
That suggests that it is picking up a non wired signal .There is a leed wire on the ignition but its seems to be a supply for the immobilizer warning light.
If thats the case you could just zip tie the key to the subframe.
Don`t know enough about auto electrics for a difinitive answer, nor have I spent enough time invetigating it as yet but I broke my ignition in a recent highside so I might have to find a work around shortly.
im trying to find a way around this as well. i bought this bike (k5 600) from an auction...with no ignition, so i cant even test the different positions of the key. and to buy a new ignition it's 125 on ebay or 225 from the dealer...so im just trying to get it running for now im not going to get an ignition till next year cause shes up for the season already, i have my other bike to ride. it's the only thing left. to get the bike started!!! replaced everything else so far that NEEDED to be replaced.
 

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gimpsta said:
uh with the clutch is just putting a wire conntecting the two together completing the circuit all the time.. the kick stand is the same I believe.

If you try and fool the clutch switch by connecting the two wire permanently - the ECU will think the bike is in neutral and will limit the maximum RPM cutout (lower). This is specified in the service manual - atleast on my '06. This may or may not be a problem for you...
 

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I notice the instrument cluster doesnt get hooked up. Does this mean no tach and speedo?

Also, after you soder the resistors to the O/Y and B/W where do you connect those two wires? There is no mention of anything about them after you connect the resistors
 

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Just finished this setup and it works fine with the 100 Ohm, 1/2 watt, 5% tolerance resistor. I had no issues at all throughout the whole process. F1 light only came on b/c I had the air box disconnected otherwise it turns on and starts right up. :cheers
 
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