Just a question about what you said about correcting the geometry in the front. What does that mean exactly? Im about to lower my K3 using the 3 hole lowering links in the back and sliding the forks up in the front. I believe the holes in the lowering links allow the stock height, then 1 1/2", then 3". Ill be going down 1 1/2" front and back then using a front strap to stop the expansion on launching. Hoping this will help lower my et's.FYI: lowering your bike 2" in the rear without correcting your geometry in the front will be as bad as stretching. once you solve that issue, the main concern of lowering your bike 2" in the rear and setting your front height correctly will be running out of lean angle in a very tight corner. having said all that, if you're still using a stock (slipper-style) clutch then that's probably your wheelie culprit.