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Discussion Starter #1
About 2 months or so ago my headlights weren't working, a quick search resulted in the starter switch, I flicked it a few times and boom, 200 or so times later no issues, until tonight when I had to get home in the dark, no lights. Thinking the flicking would do it again, of course NO LUCK!!

I took the entire assembly out quickly and saw the 4 contact points and the two on the switch, I thought maybe cleaning them would fix it, nope. if I press down on the 4 contacts that hit the switch part, they work.. what do I do, frustrated as hell I put a ziptie around it, just enough to get the lights to work but not too much to prevent the switch from engaging (I did it too tight the first time)

So I think I'm good but wait, the stupid little plastic piece that goes into the unit, between the two plastic housing (that holds the kill switch and everything) got lost!!!! ARGHGGRGRGGR So pissed, I cannot tell you, so now when I tightened it it will not get tight, that piece goes inside somewhere, it was black and was designed to tighten everything, I assume.

Does anyone know what I need? how do I fix this?? What exactly do I need? new switch? or am I soldering those 4 points onto a new piece ?

And is that plastic piece I lost called? This is gonna suck
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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New switch. If you're lucky you might be able to find a wrecked switch that you can use to get parts to fix yours. But that's risky. Pics needed.
 

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Captain Obvious ... because obviously it’s obvious
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Can you go into the parts fiche and use paint to point out what you're talking about? Regardless, I think you're going to need to go on eBay and find a used one. You can then sell your old one on there for parts and recoup part of your losses.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I found that plastic piece that goes inside that enables the plastic housing to tighten..

Now I just need to know how to fix the lights, without using a ziptie as I have now.
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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See this. It's missing the starter button. It's a crap shoot but there's a fair chance that the internal parts are the same. Don't blame me.

Zip tie is guaranteed to give you problems in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm a little lost on what I need, starter button has the two connections on it, that slides, then the other part that it connects to, with the 4 soldered wires to them. I assume I need both? does anyone know the part #'s ? and do I need to break those 4 wires and resolder onto the new piece ?

thanks
 

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Ex-Lady Supermod
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Discussion Starter #9
ok ill buy that one, was just thinking of getting just the starter switch and that problem inside, brand new.

Is that what most people do when they go bad? this is a common issue from what I'm reading, there are all sorts of fixes, but they didn't work with me
 

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Ex-Lady Supermod
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For me, when it happens, I will just buy a new one and not worry about it again. I tend to hold on to my bikes for a long time.
 

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Post some pics of the internals. The sense I get is that the contacts for the starter button don't "wipe" as they ought to and this allows corrosion to build up till they start acting up. The headlights draw more current than the solenoid so there's probably some heating at the bad contacts that further aggravates things. A damp environment like Florida probably contributes to the problem. The solution is to clean the contacts and get rid of any pitting. Some dielectric grease ought to help.

Suzuki doesn't sell the internal parts separately so there are no part numbers. Aside from scavenging them from another switch, the only way to get them is to identify the original manufacturer and pray that you can get them from them - you probably can't. It's probably a Japanese company like Stanley Electric but they specialize in lighting.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks BillV, when I opened it up I expected to see some corrosion or pitting, surprisingly it was pretty clean, I still though took a brass wire brush and lightly cleaned it, then cleaned it and put some grease, no go.
If I pushed down on it though it worked, which is what I did with the zip tie eventually.

I ordered the one Samantha showed, so hopefully that one is working , but curious couldn't I just jump it out? I do you really need the headlights to turn off when starting? I just put a brand new battery in it, and it never gets cold here.
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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Depending on whether the high beam is on or not, the headlights draw 5-10 amps. That's a fair amount and Suzuki decided to turn them off while cranking. As it adds complexity and cost to the system, I'm inclined to believe that Suzuki wouldn't be doing so unless there were significant benefits.

I believe these connectors to be a good source of suitable grease:
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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They go by various names, one of which is telephone wire connectors. 3M sells them under the Scotchlok name. They're fairly widely available.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I was in a rush last night and only had a certain amount of time to finish, took the entire assembly off, grip,gas tank up, took off the top part of the air filter, the entire assembly for that part and I couldn't get the damn connector unplugged for the main harness. Does anyone know how to do it? I didn't want to break anything, but it just seems weird. I even looked at the new one and tried to figure it out. with no time left I had to put everything back together with the bad starter button again.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I got it over the weekend, just took a little more work then I thought. All is perfect, bike running great again. carry on all :)

Thanks,
 
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