[Down2Ride750]

"When you mean checking every part of the chain, are you referring to the cam chain? Am I to see if the chain has jumped a tooth, or if it has jumped off track?"
I was referring to the cam chain but thinking along the lines of a tight link in the drive chain, something that shouldn't happen to a cam chain. It sounded like something was getting wacked every revolution instead of a more constant rattling. Jumping off the track in the chain guide would be a possibility. With the upper chain guide off you could look for damage to its underside as well as inspecting the chain as you manually rotate the engine. A jumped tooth is certainly a possibility but it would affect every cylinder. Note that I may be making too much of the noise in your first video but that's what I heard - or thought I heard.

So I’m sad to say that my #2 cylinder has (sorry if my terminology is incorrect) a broken tappet, oil seal, and cotter valve. The spring is still intact. I’ll post some pictures for reference.

 

[Down2Ride750]

"When you mean checking every part of the chain, are you referring to the cam chain? Am I to see if the chain has jumped a tooth, or if it has jumped off track?"
I was referring to the cam chain but thinking along the lines of a tight link in the drive chain, something that shouldn't happen to a cam chain. It sounded like something was getting wacked every revolution instead of a more constant rattling. Jumping off the track in the chain guide would be a possibility. With the upper chain guide off you could look for damage to its underside as well as inspecting the chain as you manually rotate the engine. A jumped tooth is certainly a possibility but it would affect every cylinder. Note that I may be making too much of the noise in your first video but that's what I heard - or thought I heard.

So I’m sad to say that my #2 cylinder has (sorry if my terminology is incorrect) a broken tappet, oil seal, and cotter valve. The spring is still intact. I’ll post some pictures for reference. View attachment 574074 View attachment 574075
View attachment 574074
View attachment 574075

 

[Beairsto Racing]

Time to pull the head off and inspect the rest of the damage.

 

[Down2Ride750]

I’m praying it is just the valve and nothing more that needs replacement. If the motor is blown, does anyone know where I can get an 07/08 Gsxr 1000 motor for a decent price? I was looking on eBay and found a few ranging from $2300-$2600.... one of my friends knows someone who went down on an 09 Gsxr1k. Motor is still in working order. Would an 09 motor work in a 07/08 frame?

 

[craigfer63]

Please tell me the valve was still held up by the other collet. Wow, who has seen this before ?
I, Need to inspect the tensioner bolt and cam tappets ( cam follower / bucket ) with a microscope and crack test, Next, valve clearance check.
Could this happen because the slack in the cam chain was causing an impact moment (whacking sound) ?
Hard lesson to learn . Trap for young players. (been there, done that) Still learning. Thanks for sharing your problem. I will note this in my log book, re. valve clearance.

 

[Down2Ride750]

Please tell me the valve was still held up by the other collet. Wow, who has seen this before ?
I, Need to inspect the tensioner bolt and cam tappets ( cam follower / bucket ) with a microscope and crack test, Next, valve clearance check.
Could this happen because the slack in the cam chain was causing an impact moment (whacking sound) ?
Hard lesson to learn . Trap for young players. (been there, done that) Still learning. Thanks for sharing your problem. I will note this in my log book, re. valve clearance.

I believe it all happened when my oem cct took a dive. I think the cam chain jumped a tooth or two and caused the bucket to shatter. I can hand crank the engine fine which is weird too

 

[BillV]

"I think the cam chain jumped a tooth or two and caused the bucket to shatter."
I'm thinking along those lines except that the chain jumped some teeth, which led to piston-to-valve contact and then the broken parts. Pull the head and look for evidence of that. Hard to say but the valve, cam lobe, and tappet bore might also be damaged.
I'm sorry to keep harping on about this but I'm thinking that's what the loud noise was about.
I've been slowly going through my K6 and replacing bolts that aren't under high stress with titanium. I'd replaced the mounting bolts for the tensioner but not the tensioner plug bolt. Based on what happened here, I think I'll leave it alone.

 

[Down2Ride750]

Is there anyway to assess the damage without dropping the engine out of the frame? This was my first time taking the valve cover off. If nothing is damaged in the bottom end of the engine, I can just order a new head. I found one on eBay 2007 - 2008 GSXR 1000 PORTED & POLISHED CYLINDER HEAD NO CAMS SEE DESC DND | eBay

"I think the cam chain jumped a tooth or two and caused the bucket to shatter."
I'm thinking along those lines except that the chain jumped some teeth, which led to piston-to-valve contact and then the broken parts. Pull the head and look for evidence of that. Hard to say but the valve, cam lobe, and tappet bore might also be damaged.
I'm sorry to keep harping on about this but I'm thinking that's what the loud noise was about.
I've been slowly going through my K6 and replacing bolts that aren't under high stress with titanium. I'd replaced the mounting bolts for the tensioner but not the tensioner plug bolt. Based on what happened here, I think I'll leave it alone.

 

[BillV]

The service manual says no. There are some bolts that are on the right outside of the head close to the crankcase deck that will be hard to get to with the engine in place. You'll be fighting the wiring harness on both sides. Even if you get the head off, you'll need the engine out to reinstall the head, new or old.

 

[Down2Ride750]

The service manual says no. There are some bolts that are on the right outside of the head close to the crankcase deck that will be hard to get to with the engine in place. You'll be fighting the wiring harness on both sides. Even if you get the head off, you'll need the engine out to reinstall the head, new or old.

So my cam chain guide snapped, shattered a valve bucket, bent a valve, yet the piston is in shape. Just some minor scoring which I’m wire brushing off.....

 

[bentoverhard69]

Wow this makes me worried about the little rattle I have every now and then I suspect coming from the cam chain. Except I'm at 60,000kms

Sent from my CPH1941 using Tapatalk

 

[BillV]

It seemed strange that only one valve in one cylinder was bent but lucky you. Does the valve guide look OK?

 

[craigfer63]

Piston still in one piece. My 50,000k old K7, I'm thinking I should get a new OEM Cam chain Tensioner. But I'm thinking that as the plunger is on a ratchet the plunger can't release unless you press the pawl in. Even if the bolt and spring were gone.
Question, did the broken tensioner bolt cause the broken chain guide or did the broken chain guide break the tensioner bolt ? My guess is the tensioner bolt.
Could we have a pic of the broken chain guide. Chain guides can be changed without removing the head.

 

[Down2Ride750]

It seemed strange that only one valve in one cylinder was bent but lucky you. Does the valve guide look OK?

The valve guide was broken. I ordered a new one. And new a new valve, spring, and tappet. Question is how do I get the broken valve guide out to install new one?

 

[Down2Ride750]

Luckily I was able to remove the head without dropping the engine out of the frame

 

[BillV]

"Question is how do I get the broken valve guide out to install new one?"
See 3-36 to 3-38 in the service manual. It's driven out with a special tool. The replacement guides are only sold oversized. So you have to ream the guide bore and drive the new guide in, all with special tools. I've always considered that to be a job for a specialist.

Your pic of the crankcase & piston tops fooled me. I could see various parts of the wiring harness but it still looked like it was out of the frame.

I'm also thinking that the guide was damaged by the loose chain flopping around after the tensioner loosened. But Craig's point about the pawl is well taken.

 

[Beairsto Racing]

Both the valve guides and seats have to be concentric to one another.
If you change out the guide, the seat also needs to be machined...otherwise the valve will not seal properly.

Again, as Bill has noted, this is specialized work.

 

[craigfer63]

"The valve guide was broken. I ordered a new one. And new a new valve, spring, and tappet. Question is how do I get the broken valve guide out to install new one?"
Is the broken valve guide your talking about, in the pic of the pieces in POST #21.

It looks like a valve seal to me. No. 10 here. The valve guide is not shown here. It is in the head schematic, on the parts Fisch.

If the new valve slides smoothly in the valve guide (in the head) it should be ok.
So new valve in, back together, and your going again.
You still have to check for damage at the cam chain sprocket.
Keep going, Throwing money at it, will not necessarily solve your Problem.
Thanks for the great pic's. So the front (white) chain guide has broken about a quarter way down from the top, indicating chain slap broke it. Did you notice how many clicks out the tensioner was ? Maybe vibration can release the pawl and ratchet.
EDIT, without spring, pawl will definitely release !
Chain guides slide in, down from the top.
The wear on the rear (black) guide does not look excessive in the pic. ie. worn through. How was the chain wear on the white chain guide ?

 

[craigfer63]

Of-course while you have the head off, it's normal practice to change valve seals and lap the valves. So that is work you could do yourself. With just a valve spring compressor and lapping stick. (standard workshop tools 😁).
Although, talking to the head rebuilding specialist first about the repair may be the best course.
Re. your budget.
Point being, the head specialist may advise to recut all the seats.
The valves are still lapped in after the seats are recut.
Also, there seams to be some pieces missing from what you recovered from the head.
Like, one of the collets, valve retainer (disc), the skirt of the tappet, should be at the bottom of the engine somewhere.

 

[BillV]

You're also supposed to use a 09919-28610 sleeve protector to avoid damaging the tappet bore while removing/installing the spring. For K5/K6 you were surprised to make one from a 35 mm film canister. I don't know if the K7 bore or spring diameter is different or if it's just a matter of 35 mm film becoming nearly obsolete.