[le skid]

That is one bad ass looking sand rail!

↑↑↑ What he said.

Too bad I'm too old to crawl in and out of such a thing, which I'm still trying to picture.

 

[craigfer63]

Pics of the business end please. 😁

 

[BillV]

Something's fishy if both relays failed. Measure the coil resistance on both bad relays, i.e. between the terminals for the O/W and Y/B leads with the relay unplugged from the harness. It should be about 90 Ω. If both relays failed, I wonder if they were exposed to excess heat or some other stress. If so, the new relay is likely to also fail.

 

[TwistedMister]

lol, well if you decide to do a backflip or something on it please post up the video.. happy new year!

 

[Merica!007]

W/B is also a lead from the brake switches to the brake light. Perhaps you only have one brake system while the bike had two independent systems with a common light. You could check the W/B lead from the ECM to the STVA but I'll bet that your cut lead is the brake light signal. It's hard for me to believe that two essentially independent relays failed at the same time. Something else is going on. Y/B is the relay control line from the ECM. It will be 12 V when the relay is open (fuel pump stopped) and near 0 V when the relay is closed (pump running). All that assumes that there's 12 V on the O/W lead. The ECM gets 12 V power from a B/Bl lead (always hot) and the O/W lead (switched). The O/W also runs to the dealer mode connector. You can check that the ECM is getting power by probing that lead at the connector. You can also do a simple check on the ECM by checking the R lead on the nearby black eight pin SAP connector (O/W must be hot). It should be 5 V. The ECM can fail but that's unusual. When the ignition and engine stop switches are turned on and O/W goes to 12 V, the Y/B lead should very briefly also go to 12 V until the ECM is running. At that point it will pull the Y/B low for three seconds as it primes the pump. Then it will let the voltage go high again until it senses that the engine is running, at which point it will pull the Y/B low again.

so I have a 2005 gsxr 600 with the chek code but other then that all the same problems . I replaced the back tail light as well as cleaned up loose dead headed wiring ends and that's when it started for me . I remember seeing the light green wire had a kicker wire going somewhere but cant remember where it connected near the tail . also my dealer mode connector had been cut out and had random wires taped up so with the help of my manual I found 3 were for the dealer mode O/Y R/W and gray. could that light green signal wire be the issue and any idea where it could have jumped to.
only wires available running to the rear light were
brown,
black / W tracer
white / black tracer
light green
black/ green tracer

 

[BillV]

I'm working from a rather crappy version of the K4/K5 600 manual and can barely read some of the wire colors. So no guarantees. Dealer mode is R/W and B/W. The other two leads are for other purposes. To my surprise, it says that the E3 & E33 models have a connector nearby the dealer mode connector that's for installing an external alarm. There's actually two connectors, a single pin connector and a four pin connector with a jumper on it. All five leads are black. Does yours have that? The Lg lead is for the right turn signal and originates at the turn signal switch. B/W is ground. W/B is for the brake light. Br is for the tail and license plate lights. There should also be a B lead for the left turn signal. B/G is serial data from the ECM to the cluster. CHEC is caused by no serial data from the ECM to the cluster.

I don't know what a "kicker wire" is. "Loose dead headed wiring" is a sign of a hack job.

 

[spike52]

Moved...

 

[Merica!007]

I'm working from a rather crappy version of the K4/K5 600 manual and can barely read some of the wire colors. So no guarantees. Dealer mode is R/W and B/W. The other two leads are for other purposes. To my surprise, it says that the E3 & E33 models have a connector nearby the dealer mode connector that's for installing an external alarm. There's actually two connectors, a single pin connector and a four pin connector with a jumper on it. All five leads are black. Does yours have that? The Lg lead is for the right turn signal and originates at the turn signal switch. B/W is ground. W/B is for the brake light. Br is for the tail and license plate lights. There should also be a B lead for the left turn signal. B/G is serial data from the ECM to the cluster. CHEC is caused by no serial data from the ECM to the cluster.

I don't know what a "kicker wire" is. "Loose dead headed wiring" is a sign of a hack job.

Sorry I called the jumper wire a kicker. Also yes I have the dealer connector and then the 6 pin connector that is all blue wires . The black and green wire would be my problem then so it Sounds like I need to follow the correct black wire from the front and make sure it’s the correct turn signal wire going to the back . Thanks man I appreciate your help