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Discussion Starter #1
Guys.. I got Gipped... The bike was sold to me as having a full D&D system. Last night I looked and I have a stock header with a D&D can welded on under the case. What a pile of SH*& this exhaust is. Its smashed badly under the case.

I dont feel like spending $800 on a Duplex. Anyone have a line on any Used Systems for a 91 1100???

If I go new what are my options with some prices? If I cheap out what do I get?

I had a Hindle on my 90 1100. It was a 4 into 2 into 1. It made 86ft lbs but only 116hp. Then I added a Duplex and cranked 126hp and 82ft lbs. Is Hindle still around? I remember it being cheap.

CT
 

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Hindle is still around, but not cheap. The have a website at http://www.hindle.com and although you can't order from there, there is a list of distributors. I found mine on eBay for my `89 and those HP numbers you're quoting sound a little low... check out http://fastcat.gixxer.com/hindle.html Also, I think someone in here (Don Tilgon?) had a Yosh that was *very* slightly used that he wanted to part company with ...or I might be mis-remembering that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Originally posted by FastCat:
Hindle is still around, but not cheap. The have a website at http://www.hindle.com and although you can't order from there, there is a list of distributors. I found mine on eBay for my `89 and those HP numbers you're quoting sound a little low... check out http://fastcat.gixxer.com/hindle.html Also, I think someone in here (Don Tilgon?) had a Yosh that was *very* slightly used that he wanted to part company with ...or I might be mis-remembering that.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Yeah.. The bike never made the power we expected it too. One day I got so upset that it was down I tore the motor down. I found a piston that was tight on the wrist pin. That was the cause all along...

Mild ported head, Stg3 jets, dialed cams, Yosh and a copper headgasket (225psi comp) and she went 10.20 at the strip. Before it would not go below 11.00. This 91 feels real slow in comparison my my roomates R1. The first step to smackdown will be a header, Stg3 and a good dyno tune.

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Discussion Starter #4
Originally posted by KJ1:
91 probably feels slow compared to the R1 due to all the extra weight it is carrying. When ever I put my 92 back together it should scale in around 430-440lbs wet.
-Karl
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">True... My 90 1100 was 452 lbs on the scale. Not to bad for such a big beast. The R1 is somewhere around 370-380 from what he said. Its bone stock and man does it pull hard. My 90 was a low 10 sec bike and that R1 seems faster to me. I guess is that short wheelbase. I have to fight to keep the wheel down in the first three gears. I need my 91 to keep up


Even though my old GSXR is big, Heavy, greasy, twisty and rattly... I love the old GSXR's

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Hindle is the lightest I belive Micron is the next lightest with Vance and Hines and Yosh tipping in at the heaviest.
The wet weight on stock R1's is in the neighbor hood of 445lbs that 380 stuff is manufacturer hype. I too love my old gsxr but I have gone off the deep end with it once the mods start it i shard to stop, I am in too deep to even think about getting another bike.
-Karl
 

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If you want you bike to keep up with the R1 here are a couple of my suggestions bearing in mind that you still want your bike to look normal.
Pull off all passenger related crap(at least 15lbs worth of shit the grab rail alone is like 8lbs) Swith to lighter foot pegs(I run LPUSA's )
Since the body work on your bike looked nice and cherry, keep it that way and replace it with SharkSkinz the stuff is light and sturdy I highly recomend it. Srad generation calipers will bolt right up to your forks(a little lighter than the stock nissin's)go with the Hindle exhaust. for a little bigger top end hit ditch the stock 36mm cv carbs and try to locate a set of 38mm cv's from a oil cooled 750 run a stage 2 with open filters. That should give you a good few pounds of fat gone wile still looking stock with the body work being the most expensive mod(figure around 600 for the set and another good couple bucks to have it painted)
Just by trimming all the excess fat suzuki put on these bikes helps enormosly
-Karl
 

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Originally posted by KJ1:
If you want you bike to keep up with the R1 here are a couple of my suggestions bearing in mind that you still want your bike to look normal.
Pull off all passenger related crap(at least 15lbs worth of shit the grab rail alone is like 8lbs) Swith to lighter foot pegs(I run LPUSA's )
Since the body work on your bike looked nice and cherry, keep it that way and replace it with SharkSkinz the stuff is light and sturdy I highly recomend it. Srad generation calipers will bolt right up to your forks(a little lighter than the stock nissin's)go with the Hindle exhaust. for a little bigger top end hit ditch the stock 36mm cv carbs and try to locate a set of 38mm cv's from a oil cooled 750 run a stage 2 with open filters. That should give you a good few pounds of fat gone wile still looking stock with the body work being the most expensive mod(figure around 600 for the set and another good couple bucks to have it painted)
Just by trimming all the excess fat suzuki put on these bikes helps enormosly
-Karl
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Don't forget the ignition advancer... it helped my bottom-end and midrange a *lot* with the airbox gone... you can go buy one, or cheap out like I did:

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=26;t=000021

either way, it makes a noticeable diff. in the way the power comes on.

Keep in mind also that the newer bikes are running much higher compression ratios than the 10:1 or so that the old oil-coolers used... I'm already thinking about cutting down my head this coming winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Originally posted by KJ1:
If you want you bike to keep up with the R1 here are a couple of my suggestions bearing in mind that you still want your bike to look normal.
Pull off all passenger related crap(at least 15lbs worth of shit the grab rail alone is like 8lbs) Swith to lighter foot pegs(I run LPUSA's )
Since the body work on your bike looked nice and cherry, keep it that way and replace it with SharkSkinz the stuff is light and sturdy I highly recomend it. Srad generation calipers will bolt right up to your forks(a little lighter than the stock nissin's)go with the Hindle exhaust. for a little bigger top end hit ditch the stock 36mm cv carbs and try to locate a set of 38mm cv's from a oil cooled 750 run a stage 2 with open filters. That should give you a good few pounds of fat gone wile still looking stock with the body work being the most expensive mod(figure around 600 for the set and another good couple bucks to have it painted)
Just by trimming all the excess fat suzuki put on these bikes helps enormosly
-Karl
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I am shocked the R1 is 445lbs! My 1100 must be 500
It feel SOOO much lighter. My roomate dropped it the other night and I had to help pick it up and it sure felt light. I have about 150 miles on the seat of the R1. Its got power and its real fun to flick around but those bars are just to low for me. I am a big guy at 250lbs and I need a big bike to feel comfortable.

Ahhh yes.. To mod or not to mod... That is the question... I know myself karl. Once I start I cant stop. I told myself that I would leave the bike alone and just use it for the ocational ride. Gears are already turning in my head. I think for now getting the bike back to well kept status will be fine along with a nice pipe and dyno work.

Its a 1991 1100 and you saw the picture. Its a pretty nice bike overall. I paid $3500 for it. I even have the solo seat. But, Its probably always going to be a $3500 bike. I hate to put $2k-$3k into it and never get anything back. I had an 86 GSXR750 that I had about $6000 into. 883 motor, WP suspension, wheels ect... I never got any of that money back...

CT
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Originally posted by FastCat:
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Originally posted by KJ1:
If you want you bike to keep up with the R1 here are a couple of my suggestions bearing in mind that you still want your bike to look normal.
Pull off all passenger related crap(at least 15lbs worth of shit the grab rail alone is like 8lbs) Swith to lighter foot pegs(I run LPUSA's )
Since the body work on your bike looked nice and cherry, keep it that way and replace it with SharkSkinz the stuff is light and sturdy I highly recomend it. Srad generation calipers will bolt right up to your forks(a little lighter than the stock nissin's)go with the Hindle exhaust. for a little bigger top end hit ditch the stock 36mm cv carbs and try to locate a set of 38mm cv's from a oil cooled 750 run a stage 2 with open filters. That should give you a good few pounds of fat gone wile still looking stock with the body work being the most expensive mod(figure around 600 for the set and another good couple bucks to have it painted)
Just by trimming all the excess fat suzuki put on these bikes helps enormosly
-Karl
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Don't forget the ignition advancer... it helped my bottom-end and midrange a *lot* with the airbox gone... you can go buy one, or cheap out like I did:

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=26;t=000021

either way, it makes a noticeable diff. in the way the power comes on.

Keep in mind also that the newer bikes are running much higher compression ratios than the 10:1 or so that the old oil-coolers used... I'm already thinking about cutting down my head this coming winter.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Thanks for the tip. I might try that as soon as my friend gets his new Dynojet installed. Should be a week or so and I will have some numbers.

I am afraid to advance to much though. I live in Arizona and its mighty hot here. I need to be carefull. My 90 model had a 1216 kit and a thin copper head gasket so my comp was around 225psi. Something like 12-1? Well. It pinged like the devil in the summer no matter what I did.. Idle it for 30 secs in 110 heat and she was not happy..

CT
 

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91 probably feels slow compared to the R1 due to all the extra weight it is carrying. When ever I put my 92 back together it should scale in around 430-440lbs wet.
-Karl
 

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Fast Cat becare ful with the cutting down of the head, the oil cooled motors do not need super high compression ratios to make big power. When I go 1340 it wil probably be in the 12:1 range and you better belive that I am going to have a top end oiler and at least one addtional oil cooler.
AZGSXR11 modding is the question and the answer to me I am 6'1 I jsut don't fit well on the new gixxer either. I am not building this bike to try and get my money out of it though. I probbaly will never sell this bike when it is done. When your old 1216 was pinging it was hot. You need to expand the cooling capacity when you build on the motor. Well good luck in what you decide. Hope to help if I can
-Karl
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Originally posted by KJ1:
Fast Cat becare ful with the cutting down of the head, the oil cooled motors do not need super high compression ratios to make big power. When I go 1340 it wil probably be in the 12:1 range and you better belive that I am going to have a top end oiler and at least one addtional oil cooler.
AZGSXR11 modding is the question and the answer to me I am 6'1 I jsut don't fit well on the new gixxer either. I am not building this bike to try and get my money out of it though. I probbaly will never sell this bike when it is done. When your old 1216 was pinging it was hot. You need to expand the cooling capacity when you build on the motor. Well good luck in what you decide. Hope to help if I can
-Karl
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Good point. I had the stock oil cooler on. I talked to a friend that builds these motors. He suggested a 1340kit, 11-1 comp, His port work, Cams, top end oil kit(what is that?) and a pipe. He said that setup makes 160-180hp on his dyno through stock carbs. We discussed the comp ratio and he said that it should be pretty low if its going to live in the heat. Just not sure if I am ready to take the plunge. I am going to try a pipe and jet kit first to see what I get.

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The top end oil kit keeps the top end well lubed and cooled it increases the amount of oil flowing throught the top. 160hp to 18hp on a 1340 with the stock 36mm cv sounds about right fournately for me I am aquiring a set of Keihin 41mm fcr's. I will probably see 195hp on the motor I am building , will I ever fully exploit it? No. But the dyno chart will look good when I show the bike. Not to mention the sheer fun that that much power will be

-Karl
 

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Karl,

Do you have any URLs for the "top end oiler" kit you mentioned? I live in the Pacific Northwest, and it barely gets over 80 degreesF in the summer here, but I *do* get down to SoCal once in a blue moon... I don't plan on going over 11.5:1 because I want to be able to use pump gasoline... the local speed-shop guru has promised me 150HP at the rear wheel if I go to 11.5:1 and the 41mm FCR's and I'm thinking of making him make good on that this winter. I'm *certainly* not gonna pull the head off the thing when it's just getting warm enough to do some longer rides.
 

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Only one I can think of off hand is APE http://www.aperaceparts.com email John he is knowledgeable, friendly and helpful. For 150rwhp Your guy is probably going to wan tto bore you stock block, personally I am staying away from this as I want to keep all of the stock bits I cam iif my monster motor blows up
. You can also check out http://www.dragbkie.com the oil kits pop up there as well as numerous other parts. The oil kit is not only for heat reduction...
-Karl
 

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Guys,just my humble opinion but;to get 180rwhp out of a 1340 with stock carbs your going to need AT LEAST a 31/27 head that flows at a min. of 140cfm,.410 lift cams(which will destroy your valvetrain if driven daily on the street)and 13:1cr.I've had and known several people with these set-up's and it ain't cheap and it will always run hot.If your builder can give you that much H.P. and run pump gas thru stock carbs,and not run hot then he's giving you a miracle
Just the head alone would set you back $4500.
 

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KJ1,sounds like a good combo and should make around 165-170hp depending on which cams you use.Anything overly aggressive will require HD valve springs and will need the top-end oiler to keep the valvetrain from galling.I had great results with Cam Motion G21's on a 1371cc low compression street engine.Made 176hp at the rear wheel and ran on 92 octane.All this and the stock block too.A real sleeper.Good luck and keep me posted.
 

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Sounds good, have any links for cams, I know of web cam, thats about it, the yosh cams I am getting from a friend who didn't use them(at all new in the box
), I planned on heavy duty valvesprings and retainers just in case,as sson as I get my new APE catalog I will post the exact specs of the kit I want. Any other advice/opinions on this motor all input is apriciated.
-Karl
 

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You can't beat free,but there are better cams out there.Schnitz Racing sells Cam-Motion and a few others.Check www.dragbike.com for links.If I was building a 1340 for the street I would:
1-HD main bearing studs&case studs
2-undercut trans
3-magnaflux crank if you have hi miles or bought the engine used
4-manual cct
5-o-ring block
6-use copper gaskets if over 12:1 cr
7-Dyna 2000 ign.
8-good 4-1(not 4-2-1)system
just a few things I can think of at the moment.If it were my head,I would send it to Carpenter in N.J or Gann in N.C.Blake Gann did a 32/28 head for my pumper engine and it made 235 at the rear wheel w/ 44 Megatrons.All my other heads(190 horse 1371)a close friend who runs Pro-Star SBS did for me.I hope I answered some of your questions.
 
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