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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have just rejetted my carbs on my 96 750.Can you tell me if this is the right setup for a k&n with a yosi rs3 bolt on? 135jets on the out side 132.5 inner with the needles on the second clip. Tested it and it idles a little rough. top speed slowed dramaticly at 165. no valve job, timing advancer, carb sync., or mixture screws adjusted. It does run fast enough to leave the local highway patrol behind as I just, JUST found out. oh yeah it was a factory pro stage 1 jet kit. Thanks, Ryan.
 

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I am not a good carb tuner... I have to ride the biek and even then I am not very good at it..
I can do better with a single carb bike (like a dirtbike). Sorry I can not be much help for you here..

John
 

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Originally posted by spongebob:
more proof that you dont change the jets on a slip on only bike...
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">You can jet a completely stock bike and get some good gains. It is unreal to do this, I know a couple of guys who have done it and they were pleased.........don't get that misconstrued

Also, what jet kit did you install? If it is a Factory, you can go to their website and find some carb tuning tips and I think that Dynojet has some info also

[ 05-15-2002, 09:37 AM: Message edited by: 93**750 ]
 

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There is no proof here at all that you should not jet with only a slipon...

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Originally posted by spongebob:
more proof that you dont change the jets on a slip on only bike...
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">What are you talking about??????????
 

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your not changing anything with a slipon that would require a jet change..every manufactures catalog (exhaust) says rejetting isnt required..i can see rejetting a stock bike for altitude..but not a slip on..AND remember, opinions are like ass holes, every ones got one..i was wrong about the resistor thing...so...

if your really concerned about your fuel mixture, check your plugs...
 

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Originally posted by spongebob:
your not changing anything with a slipon that would require a jet change..every manufactures catalog (exhaust) says rejetting isnt required..i can see rejetting a stock bike for altitude..but not a slip on..AND remember, opinions are like ass holes, every ones got one..i was wrong about the resistor thing...so...

if your really concerned about your fuel mixture, check your plugs...
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">The bikes come running lean from the factory. This is for emission reasons. So even a stock bike can use a rejetting so that it has the proper fuel/air ratio. A slip on will only make it flow more, which will make it run even leaner, making a jet kit an even better idea.
It will run fine without run, but to get the most out of it, you should rejet.
 

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I've got a 96' 750 and a Yosh RS3 slip on, K&N style filter ( I got the Italian one can't remember name). Installed Dyno jet Stage 1 kit. I think I have 132's on the outs and 130's on the ins Carbs. Runs much better than stock. Doesn't seem to hesitate in the 2500-4500K range and is much smoother. I'm almost at sea level if that means anything to you.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
spongebob, i just wanted more info, that's all. I'm just getting into modding my bike, what else would compliment my jetkit, advancer, cams=(money)? what do you think would help with a jet kit mod. I was told that the factory pro stage 1 complimented the k&n and a bolt on, was I mislead?

Ryan
 

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I am not such a fan of jet kits anymore. After having my present bike GSXR750WV dynoed (120rwbhp EEC or 122.8rwbhp DIN (using Din what a scam!)) , I feel the dynojet kits recommendations were so far out as to be no use whatsoever. You are given 3 levels of set-up and having a full Ackroprovic exhaust, mild cams and ported head I assumed stage 3 set-up from the kit would be fine.
In the end the tuner used the stage 1 settings using 128/130* main jets where I had used the 132/134* recommended. I think if the tuner is any good it is better to let him play with the jets and forget jetting kits, they are a waste of money.

*dynojet jets don't flow the same rates as standard so therefore can't be compared.

So in summary, I would not be surprised that if you upped the main jets, and upped the needle valve positions, this would be a step in the right direction, best still find a tuner who does not mug you everytime you go into their shop and get them to do it. You can tune bikes on the road but it is never spot on!

In the UK there seems to be a culture where tuners just sell you any old crap to make them money if you need it or not, I hate people who are passionate about their bikes being mugged like this ggrraaahh!

cheers
 

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I guess I just have to say that anytime you play with the characteristics of air flow and want more power you need to ask race teams who tune the same engines. They obviously are gaining more power. Now if you're talking about the superstock class, or depending on the sanctioning body... supersport in some.... are running nothing but bolt ons. Many of them are running the FI bikes now, but started on the carb'd versions. They will know where you can get the power as no one has played with these more than they have. If you have a track that supports these types of events, go and get a schedule of bike races in the amatuer (did I spell right?) or other classes of any higher level. Talk to them all. Compile your data, and make the best decision. I believe in doing all things yourself if you have a manual. It will give you the best ideas on how to properly tune your carbs to make sure they're sync'd right, etc. Then, it's called testing and re-evaluating to make your next decision on changes and then re-evaluating. Jets do give you power on a stock setup totally. You just have to know how to tune. That's the key.
 

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Originally posted by spongebob:
your not changing anything with a slipon that would require a jet change..every manufactures catalog (exhaust) says rejetting isnt required..i can see rejetting a stock bike for altitude..but not a slip on..AND remember, opinions are like ass holes, every ones got one..i was wrong about the resistor thing...so...

if your really concerned about your fuel mixture, check your plugs...
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Yes you are correct they do not REQUIRE that you re-jet. Will it run better, yes.

The reason for this is that the stock cans are like a two chamber muffler, with a slip-on, it is a str8 pipe... This lets more air flow out of the pipe and makes the bike run more lean then stock. And like RatMan said, they run lean as it is...


Anyhow, you dont have to do jet if you dont want, but it would help.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have the needle set to the second position, What happens if I move it to the third position from the top?
 

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More fuel... On the ones I have installed, we set them in the center (I think), I know it was the one the book said to put it on... lol Then we used a shim when needed...

John
 

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is installing a jet kit hard? Mine was jetted but i think it should be rejetted possibly some people said.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Installation was a breeze once you figure out what everything is. Getting it rigth without a dyno will take two possibly three more tries with the settings.
Ryan
 

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I have a Factory jet kit in my 96 750 and like it. I know some of the tuners there and have a list of mods to that bike and jetting that worked, along with dyno runs. CALL RAUL at factory, he will steer you right! Their tuning process is on their site and I have seen it copied here also.

I think 3.5 turns out on the air fuel screws and a carb synch should help with a rough idle. If the top speed dropped off with those main jets, see if it is rich or lean by how the bike runs 7krpm and up when it is cold compared to hot-see their web site to see which way to go, or just drop or raise 2 sizes and try it. I had to go to 145/142.5 mains with the airbox mod and I like it.

I think most all the jet kit business is just undoing all the Socialist Eco laws.

good luck
 
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