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it has all original caps on it , could it have anything to do with me having the head cut and running a thinner head gasket? maybe i took too much off and should run stock gasket?
No, the compression of the combustion chamber is sealed off from the water ports, as long as the gasket is intact and sealing, then its doing its job and the motor will run fine.

Original radiator caps don't often fail, but they do fail, so go get a new radiator cap, install it and your issues should be resolved.

There is a fine balance that smart people worked out between the cooling capabilities of the coolant system, the pressure it runs at a certain temperature and so on, so if the cap's spring tension changes over time, or the rubber seal goes hard or any one of a few other possibilities why the cap fails, the system is not balanced, and it will eject fluid.
 

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Changing back to stock head gasket will lower compression and engine will run cooler. At least you could eliminate the head gasket, from your problem, the air fuel ratio will drop as well, to less than 12.5 : 1 (cooler). Less advanced ignition timing will have the engine running cooler but this (and the air/fuel ratio) is controlled by the ECM.
 

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Original radiator caps don't often fail, but they do fail, so go get a new radiator cap, install it and your issues should be resolved.

There is a fine balance that smart people worked out between the cooling capabilities of the coolant system, the pressure it runs at a certain temperature and so on, so if the cap's spring tension changes over time, or the rubber seal goes hard or any one of a few other possibilities why the cap fails, the system is not balanced, and it will eject fluid.
Yeah, my radiator cap failed at about the 100K mark. The rubber "Lower Pressure Seal" was deformed and went hard like plastic, allowing pressurized coolant past and out through the overflow tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Just got a new radiator cap put on , definitely still over heating , takes a minute for it to over heat but when it does it pushes all the fluid into the reservoir till it pushes it through the overflow tube......
 

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First, be sure that the water pump is turning, in particular that it's engaged the drive on the oil pump. If so, I'd find a radiator repair shop nearby that can check it for blockage. That almost certainly is going to be a shop that deals with cars so beware of chains that just want to flush the system. You want someone that knows how to check for hot and cold zones, ideally with a temperature gun.
 

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Did you follow the manual on how to bleed all the air out of the systems after your last flush/fill up?
if you did bleed all the air out of the system correctly, and it still pushes coolant out, then it will be time to start looking at part failures and system pressure tests like BillV mentioned.
 

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Just got a new radiator cap put on , definitely still over heating , takes a minute for it to over heat but when it does it pushes all the fluid into the reservoir till it pushes it through the overflow tube......
Hi, just wondering if the two small hoses going to top of radiator by the rad cap havent been swapped positions ? as then hivpressured coolant will flow into overflow resevoir, rather than into radiator
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
First, be sure that the water pump is turning, in particular that it's engaged the drive on the oil pump. If so, I'd find a radiator repair shop nearby that can check it for blockage. That almost certainly is going to be a shop that deals with cars so beware of chains that just want to flush the system. You want someone that knows how to check for hot and cold zones, ideally with a temperature gun.
How exactly do you check the water pump? I changed it but with a used one
 

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I don't have the K9 service manual on this computer but there ought to be a couple possibilities. You could remove the outer case leaving the base & impeller in place. You could then try turning the impeller by hand to see if it's engaged. Alternately you could disconnect the hose to the radiator and check through the pump inlet, either visually when the engine is cranked or with some sort of tool used to try to turn the impeller.
 

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It is worthwhile testing the rad cap spring pressure, and if the seal is sealing on the spring loaded seals seat, but the radiator will overflow without a cap as soon as it warms up or if revving the engine, so a hi preassured radiator cap is a worthwhile idea especially if there is any doubt about the seating pressure of the current cap which should be a min 1.6 bar
 

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There are tests to see if your coolant has exhaust gasses present. Don't just arbitrarily start doing work because you can't figure it out, methodically narrow it down.
 
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