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Discussion Starter #1
This is for a gsxr 92 1100. I just finished installing a yosh duplex stainless race only exhaust system and I had to move the oil lines a bit. Is this ok, because if I didn't the round cans on the duplex headers would of been touching . Second ? What oil should I use for the bike synthetic or regular. 10-40 or a diffrent grade and brand.What do you guys recommend. Third ? what temp should the bike be running at on average. Last ? I know I keep asking but Iam getting diffrent answers. I have the daytona temp guage and it recommends putting the sensor on in the drain plug but will that be acurate, is there always oil sitting in the pan? Thanks Again. [email protected]
 

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Hi Don,

looks like we picked the same day to get our hands dirty... I just had to move the oil cooler on my `89 1100 to get it to clear the Hindle system I got from eBay... from looking at the thing (I did some serious looking today) I don't think it would be a problem moving those lines as long as you don't put much stress on the fittings at the top where they attach and seal with an o-ring... you might wanna take those things off and bend the steel tubing if it looks too bad... and there were starps on my lines around some foam stuff to hold them close up to the frame. As for oil, I've used the Mobil1 synthetic stuff in most of my bikes, it does seem to make the shifting action a lot smoother, but otherwise I don't notice a lot of difference between the synthetic and regular old oil... I change oil and filter every 3,000 miles (or as close as I can). On the oil temp sensor, I'd feel kinda skatey about having it on the bottom of the oil pan in place of the drain... it just seems likely to get damaged down there to me. If I had one, I think I'd go for one of the galley plugs like the one where the manual recommends checking the oil pressure from. You planning on doing a jet-kit with that pipe? (I got the factory "config 3.0" for mine).
 

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for the oil temp gauge, stick the sensor in one of the oil gallery plugs like fastcat mentioned....there are several just on the oil pan alone. i wouldn't stick the sensor in the oil drain plug, if only because then you'd need to disturb it every time you change the oil. stick it somewhere else and forget about it.

also, i think the sensor may have pipe threads, so it's not something you want to keep removing and reinstalling....

under normal conditions, oil temp should be over 200°f....in heavy traffic you may see it shoot past 240.

take it easy on the motor until oil temp is past, say, 170 or so.

[ 03-22-2002, 07:30 AM: Message edited by: jeff ]
 

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This problem happens on first generation bikes also when using the Yosh duplex. Nice pipe but c'mon, I would expect more from them. On my '88 1100 the cans actually came in contact with the cooler itself. Besides the negative heat transfer, it was enough to stress that left upper oil line fitting and start a leak. They also hit the front fender under braking and melted it!! Turned out to be a big project. I reshaped the front fender by shortening it, and sent the oil cooler to Mylers 800 367 7699. They fixed the leak and changed the mounts so it will sit a bit higher away from the cans.
 

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sounds like a pain. I had to bend one of my lines slightly to get it away from my pipework and it was fine, just take your time doing it.

I also agree with the others in that the drain plug fitting sounds crap.

 

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Yeah, I would not mount in the drain plug's place, use an oil galley plug..You would disturb it too much, and probably break in using it as a drain plug...Yoshimura suggests putting the sensor for their temp gauges in the galley plug by the oil filter...working well for mine..

As for oil, the Mobil One motorcycle oil is getting pretty popular..My gixxer really likes it
!! Anyway mine has been running about 70 to 75 C...around 170 F if my conversion is right..that's warmed up, running down the road..at traffic I see around 80 to 85C (185F)..It ain't summer yet, so this may be warmer in a month or so(yeah, sorry, I live in Florida!)..

Mine's a 750 so it will probably run cooler than an 1100 I guess..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks fastcat was not able to open files but i have the manual and thanks. I think Iam going to put it in the left side plug so I dont have to remove it when checking oil pressure. I just finished put config 10 factory jet kit in . Now ready to install the carbs. I hope she starts !!
Do u put synthetic or reg?
 

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I use the Mobil1 synthetic stuff, it does seem to make the transmission shift a lot smoother. Did you restrict your vacuum pistons with that Factory kit? I followed the destructions exactly, and it fired right up and ran well enough to go for a test ride. The #147.5 mains seem to be correct for my setup with the airbox gone, (I've got a rich flat spot at about 4500-5500 rpm)... I'm playing around with getting the config 30 kit right in mine, the dyno will tell the tale whenever I get back out there, but it sure *feels* like it pulls harder now.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I just got back from the garage started it and it running really bad. I didnt even go for a test run. When throttling, Its bogging between 2-3 with full throttle . I followed instr. to a T . I think I might have to send it to a Shop. I hate having other work on my bike . But I dont know much about carbs any sugg?
 

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Originally posted by Dontilgon:
I just got back from the garage started it and it running really bad. I didnt even go for a test run. When throttling, Its bogging between 2-3 with full throttle . I followed instr. to a T . I think I might have to send it to a Shop. I hate having other work on my bike . But I dont know much about carbs any sugg?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Well, mine runs like sh*t when it's cold (always has) did you get it warmed up good first? You should also be using the "PRI" position on the petcock; you have to fill those float bowls up after having it all apart. I had to bend the tabs on #2 and #3 carb to get the float height to exactly 15mm - I made a gage from some of that flatbar I had left over after making my oil-cooler brackets... let me know if you want details about how to do that. I had to play around with the idle and the fuel mixture screws some to get a nice smooth idle... I settled on 2 turns out on the fuel mixture screws, and my "seat of the pants" dyno says that the #2 slot on the needles is the right spot for the midrange. According to the instructions, you have to get the float height and the main jet size figured out first... You should have really good throttle response off idle with leaving the airbox on, with the individual filters on mine, it hesitates just the slightest bit if I gag it wide open from 2K, from 3K it's nice and smooth, and from 5K up it's like a different machine (I can't keep the front wheel on the ground in first and second gear).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
2 seems rite on the needle. my pilot jet 30 i think iam going to go for the 32.5. main jet is 120. but iam gettins some poping at high rpm and bogging at low atr full throttle. but when she takes off i cant keep her down
 

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If you're gonna hafta change your main jet, that changes everything else, so you need to get that sorted first. I know I asked before, but the guys at Factory *really* stress the float height being *exactly* 15mm ...did you check that out and set it?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
After doing some research I believe the mail and clip height is perfect. what do you think if i change the pilot jet to 3.25 from 30. I hvent tried putting the screw to 3 turns still at 2.5. Bit will a half of turns really make that much of a diffrence?
 

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1/2 turn made a lot of difference on mine... at 2 1/2 turns out, it ran fine but it had a hesitation at 3K going from barely open to full-throttle. The best way to figure out the pilot jets is to get the bike good and warmed up, and then, with the motor running, twist them in 1/2 turn increments til you get the smoothest idle... it helps if you idle it down a little, but not so slow that it stalls. You should also double-check and make sure that the butterflies are synchronized so you have the same vacuum on all four cylinders at idle (pull out the carb stix)... this can effect throttle response at small throttle openings a great deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
What does sound like to you. When i turn the throttle quicky full at idle .it as a dry spot about 1-4000 rmps. When I double twist it scream s with no problem but I get some popping at 10-11 rmp?
 

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It sounds like your too lean, probably your float level is too low, or you need to raise the needle a bit, or maybe just a bigger jet. I'd check 'em in that order.
 

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definitely feel for you on the oil line/header contact. I did a 89 750 chassis with an 88 1052 motor(now 1109) and had the same problem. Ended up getting steel braided line kit with new fittings and worked like a champ, no probs. I found this problem out the hard way. Riding with a bunch of buds and the oil line rubbed the header and bang, 5 qts of oil all over the bike, me and the wheels just coming hard into 2nd gear.
 
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