Oil leak at water pump fix

If you have replaced the O-ring and sealed it with Ultra Copper RTV the way I described and it still leaks you have a bad seal in the water pump. When the seals go bad you will get antifreeze or oil or a combination of both dripping from the lowest bolt on the pump. I don't recommend pulling the pump, disassembling it and replacing the seals as there are too many things to go wrong and then you will be pulling it again. If you suspect the pump is bad just replace it. Best price I found is from Cheapcycleparts dot com about 160 bucks I think.
You also don't need to do it the way the svc manual describes, there is no need to drain the coolant, do it this way.....
1 Pull the left and right side fairings.
2 Have the moto on a rear wheel stand so it is level and the rear is higher than the front.
3 Use two pair of locking hose clamp pliers (harbor freight) to clamp the hoses just behind the pump clamps.
4 Loosen and remove the two coolant hoses from the pump, have a drain pan handy as you will lose a small amount of fluid.
5 Remove the bolts holding the pump assy to the engine.
6 Have the new pump ready to install as you gotta be quick so you don't lose a lot of oil.
7 Wiggle the old pump a bit and pull it STRAIGHT out, align the slot in the new pump to match the orientation of the old one and push the new pump STRAIGHT in. It helps to lube the new O-ring on the new pump with a little oil or I use trans gel/vaseline. You don't want to damage or tear the new O-ring on assembly.
8 Reinstall the two coolant hoses then loosen the bleed screw on the pump till a bit of coolant starts to come out, tighten the bleed screw and top off your coolant level in the radiator, you lose about a pint that was in the old pump.
9 Add about a pint or half quart of new engine oil that was lost when the pump came out. Your amount will vary by how fast you worked, just top it back off.
10 Let the moto sit for 24 hours for the RTV you put behind the O-ring as posted previosly to cure.
11 Fire it up and let it get to full operating temp, the fan needs to cycle at least once. Retorque the mounting bolts and hose clamps. If nothing leaks you are golden.
12 Reinstall the left and right fairings, put on your helmet and go for a ride.
You might see a little (like a drop) oil or antifreeze come out over the next couple of rides, no worries it's the seals getting conditioned/ softened as a little fluid works into the labyrinth of the seal.
If you do it it like I explained it should only take you 20 minutes or so to replace the pump. If you do it as described in the manual you will be farting around trying to bleed the air from the coolant sytem forever it will seem like.
Then go in the house and pop a cold beer while patting yourself on the back 'cuz you just saved some fat cash from what the dealer would have charged you! Cheers:cheers

wmx124 said:

OP... I'm confused about how much RTV to apply?

Are the beads 1/16" in width around the entire circumference of the pump?

These beads are being used to seal the o-ring to the pump? Right?

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After you remove the pump take a pipe cleaner and run it around the inside of the weep hole on the bottom of the pump snout, if it comes out dry it indicates the inner pump seal is good. If it's wet with oil/af or a mixture of the two you will need to replace the pump, the o-ring was ok. If the pump is good install a new o-ring and run a 1/16 in bead of ultra copper rtv behind the o-ring on the pump side and between the o-ring and the weep hole and reinstall the pump. Don't get real nutty with putting on too large of a bead or you will push rtv back over the weep hole when you reinstall it. If you block the weep hole off if the inner pump seal should fail it will leave nowhere for the oil or af to escape and it will be forced into either the oil or the coolant system. 1/16 inch is about the diameter of a pencil lead give or take a little.

SuperMotoRuss said:

After you remove the pump take a pipe cleaner and run it around the inside of the weep hole on the bottom of the pump snout, if it comes out dry it indicates the inner pump seal is good. If it's wet with oil/af or a mixture of the two you will need to replace the pump, the o-ring was ok. If the pump is good install a new o-ring and run a 1/16 in bead of ultra copper rtv behind the o-ring on the pump side and between the o-ring and the weep hole and reinstall the pump. Don't get real nutty with putting on too large of a bead or you will push rtv back over the weep hole when you reinstall it. If you block the weep hole off if the inner pump seal should fail it will leave nowhere for the oil or af to escape and it will be forced into either the oil or the coolant system. 1/16 inch is about the diameter of a pencil lead give or take a little.

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throwed_dc said:

ok heres my deal, tryiong to get this leak fixed but confused now.
I took off pump and one blot was blk and other wasnt, dont know if that was important but i removed pump and saw where the small seal goes but how should i remove it? just cut it? And the other seal i ordered also goes to water pump but dont see on housing wherre it should mount. i took a pic of pump how it looks after i removed it and theres no spot for it. can someone open those pics i posted with paint and walk me through it? please if you can or guide me a little more id really appreciate it. dont wanna just cut old seal off put new one on and this damn thing to leak again. :banghead

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The o-ring in the pic near your finger tip on the pump snout is the one to replace, the other one (the big one) is the seal between the two halves off the pump itself. You don't need to disassemble the pump and change the big one, it's rare that it would ever leak. Be sure you check inside the weep hole on the bottom of the pump snout as installed for any af or oil, if it's wet in there you need to replace the pump. If your pump is ok use a small awl or hook tool to remove the old o-ring, don't cut it, you might nick the slot it is in and cause another leak. Run a small bead of RTV on the back side of the new o-ring (about a 1/16 inch back from o-ring towards the pump itself) all the way around the snout, you are creating a secondary seal behind the o-ring and follow the rest of my orig post. That black crap on the bolt and in/ around the snout and opening looks like carbonized oil from some type of oil leak. It's not chain lube cuz it would not be able to get inside the engine like that.