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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any of the given information is just advice. I will not be responsible for any damage done. Please read and change your oil at your own risk.

What - Changing your oil
Level of difficulty - 4 (1-10 with 10 being most difficult)
Time - Approx. 30 minutes providing you have the correct tools
Why - Because want clean oil in our bike! It's obvious! No metal debris for me!

Step 1: If your bike has been parked and cooled down all day, what I usually do is start the motor up and let it idle for a minute or two so the oil is a bit warm. This way, you get the maximum amount of oil flow out of your engine as to what you'd see if your engine was cold.

Step 2: If you have a rear stand, use it. It's a lot easier this way. Some people would rather do it using the side stand so the oil pours out at the most angle, but I chose to use my rear stand. Either way works.



Step 3: Remove your left side fairing. The bolts are indicated in red circles. There are 3 Allen bolts and 3 plastic push clips. If you have cut frame sliders like I do, you want to remove that as well. Make sure to replace the bolts + hardware in a safe place. I chose to put them back where they belong so I wouldn't lose them. For those with sliders, I suggest you put the motor mount bolt back into place to keep the motor from shifting during your oil change.







Step 4: Using a 17mm wrench or socket, carefully unbolt the drain plug counter-clockwise. Make sure you have an oil drain container or a bucket of some sort to catch the oil. DO NOT do what I did. I accidentally dropped my drain plug and it went into the oil storage container. I had to get a magnet pen thing to retrieve it. During this process, you may want to remove the oil fill plug as well to let the maximum amount of oil drain. If you have time, take a break while it's draining. If you want ALL of it out, it'll take a good 20 minutes.



Step 5: Remove the oil filter. You'll want to be careful as well as oil will more than likely drip out. Wipe off any access oil around the engine block after you're done.





A common mistake that often happens is the seal stays on the block. Make sure EVERYTHING is removed. The last thing you want is to have oil spit out everywhere after you're done assembling everything to only find out you're running 2 seals/gaskets. If you don't believe that it's common, check the 06-07 GSXR forum. Believe me.

Step 6: Put your oil drain plug back in and torque it to spec. I believe it is 16.5 ft. lbs. Any more than that and I guarantee you will strip it. A new crush washer is also a good idea if you have, but I don't believe it's that necesarry.

Step 7: Pour some new oil into your new oil filter. I chose to use a Suzuki filter only because the obvious..It's a Suzuki! Duh! The amount use, I'm not too sure of. I just poured enough so it was almost full. If you have the correct spec, please let me know and I'll edit this post. After that, reinstall the oil filter and torque it to the correct spec. I don't know how tight mine is, but it's "VERY TIGHT" if that means anything. I have no way as of right now to check torque specs, but "VERY TIGHT" should be good enough.





Step 9: Reinstall your fairing. If you have a cut frame slider, torque it down to spec. I'm too lazy to look at the specs, but I think it's 45 ft lbs?

Step 9: Using a funnel, pour oil in the filler hole. Check your sight glass as well. I poured in about 2.5 quarts of oil and I turned on the engine and let it idle for about 3-4 minutes, then I rode it around the block and checkd the level again. It's best to check your oil level after all the oil settled, so a good idea is to turn off your engine and let it sit for about 2 minutes. I know it's a huge debate to how much oil you should be using, but just go by your eyes and forget what the "dealer" says. When I bought my oil, the mechanic said 3.4 quarts but I didn't believe a word he was saying. From my past 5 oil changes on my K8, I've used ALMOST 3 quarts. but definitely more than 2.65 quarts as the manual states.





You shouldn't put more than 3 quarts in. If you have more than that, I suggest you drain some to prevent any type of engine damage.

You're done!

If you feel that any information above may be incorrect, please let me know.
 

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Nice post for those looking to get involved in some easy and essential maintenance on their bikes.

I don't bother putting my fairings back on until after I have made sure I added the correct amount of oil, just in case I need to drain some.

I was always taught to rub a small amount of oil around the seal of the filter as well. Not sure of the functionality of this - just something that was passed down.

Also don't be too alarmed at a slight burning smell for a bit after a change - excess burning off the exterior of the block etc.
 

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Great post. From the service manual, the torque spec for the oil filter is 14.5 lb-ft. You were correct that the oil drain plug spec is 16.5 lb-ft. As someone pointed out above, you want to apply a thin layer of oil with you finger around the filter O-ring to provide the best seal. :biggrin
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's covered because I cut the small hose short since it nearly touched the ground when I first got it. Ever since then, sometimes it just shoots it everywhere, usually at high RPMs.. =( Rather than spitting it into the atmosphere, it chooses my rad. hose.
 

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Chubby Chaser
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+1

You might want to check your cooling system and make sure you dont have any air bubbles stuck in it. Coolant should not be pissing out at high RPMs. If anything, when I've got the bike singing on the top end it's running pretty cool because it's getting pretty good airflow at those speeds. It only gets hot when stuck in traffic putting around at the bottom of 1st gear.
 

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When removing the filter, if you just wipe off the spilled oil from the block/header the residue will have to burn off. Instead take non-chlorinated brake cleaner to it. You wont have any smoke or stains left behind. Just dont spray it on a hot header/engine as it will ignite!!!!!!
 

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Awesome post man....that is as thorough as you can get!!
 

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i changed it with out removeing the faring, it's easy. i wish all the bikes i worked on where that easy. suzuki must have thoguth the oil filter was going to fall off as tight as they put that thing, crap i thought they had welded it on there at first :biggrin
 
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