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What do you think the issue is ?

  • Bad head gasket

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Bad water pump mechanical seal

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Bad oil cooler

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Freeze plug popped

    Votes: 2 100.0%
  • Something else

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I’ve Been dealing and troubleshooting my 06 GSXR 600 over the last week or so. Finally been really digging into it. I had coolant and oil mix as you can see in the pics as well as overheating. Hoping to get some more help and ideas from y’all so I can narrow down this issue and get back to riding this season...it’s the only thing that helps with my depression and PTSD...I know a lot of you know these bikes inside and out...

Few things came to mind on what could be the issue...

1- head gasket ( worst case scenerio )
2- water pump’s mechanical seal went bad
3- oil cooler went bad
4- freeze plug popped due to me running only water wetter towards the end of the season ( it gets cold here )

What I’ve done so far...
Started off my removing the water pump and inspecting the mechanical seal. From what I could tell it didn’t look like it had any issues but I ended up removing it anyways so I could visually inspect it better - it wasn’t easy to remove I made some punctures of my own on it but overall prior it seemed to be in decent conditions

From there I ran a compression test as well as a leak down test. The compression test I got around 130 on all 4 cylinders. Test was done on a cold bike.
Prior to this happening about a month before I also did a compression test and was getting around 150 on 3 cylinders and around 145 on another cylinder after running the bike.

Leak down test I ran on all four cylinders using a harbor freight leak down tester so I’m sure it’s not the most accurate but can give an idea of where I stand. That test came back as follows...

Cylinder 1 - 70psi in. Holds 68
Cylinder 2 - 70 psi in holds 67
Cylinder 3 - 70psi in holds 69
Cylinder 4- 70psi in holds 70

Next I removed the head and visually inspected the 2 out of the 3 freeze plugs the best I could. They seem to be in place , the third one you can’t see it unless you remove the the cam shafts and the cam chain. I didn’t want to do that yet until I rule everything else out. If I do end up having to take a look at the third freeze plug hopefully somebody can give me some tips on if it’s possible to mark the chain and keep it timed so it’s not a headache when I go to put it back together...

With those test results do you still think it could be a head gasket? What should I do next - Pressure test the cooling system ? Rebuild the water pump and oil cooler ? Or pull the camshaft journals so I can get a better look at all the freeze plugs and rule them out....

Any help is very much appreciated - I’m doing the best I can right now and trying to utilize forums , other peoples posts etc and learn as I go and not just throw parts at the bike uselessly but today I’m ready to order some parts and see if I can bring her back to life or if I’ll need to do the head gasket 👍🏻👍🏻
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This amount of coolant in the oil certainly points to head gasket.

If you were getting white exhaust that's definitely it. If you're not this something oddball.
 

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would a popped freeze plug put oil in coolant or vice versa?

what's the chance your block froze with only wetter in it?
 

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1985 GSXR 750, 1989 GSXR 750, 1991 GSXR 750, 1993 GSXR 750
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Froze and cracked block = possible water in oil
Froze and popped plug - no chance oil in water/water in oil
 

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See this, particularly the pictures. It would have been nice if you'd pressurized the cooling system with air before taking things apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
See this, particularly the pictures. It would have been nice if you'd pressurized the cooling system with air before taking things apart.
I’m planning on putting it back together and pressurizing the coolant system today. As long as I put the water pump back on and hook up the hoses will I be ok to do a pressure test with having the inner mechanical seal removed or does it have to be replaced before doing it ? And can you give me a run down on how to perform the test. I appreciate the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
would a popped freeze plug put oil in coolant or vice versa?

what's the chance your block froze with only wetter in it?
There’s a good chance that might have happened - it was towards the end of the season where it gets a bit cold at night but still warm during the day. Temps might have dropped just enough to freeze the water wetter...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This amount of coolant in the oil certainly points to head gasket.

If you were getting white exhaust that's definitely it. If you're not this something oddball.
There was no white exhaust fumes surprisingly- it’s wierd to that the leak down test comes back good as well as the compression test
 

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There was no white exhaust fumes surprisingly- it’s wierd to that the leak down test comes back good as well as the compression test

did they do the leak down and pressure test when it was hot and coolant was pressurized?

a lot of times cracks and such do not leak until the engine is hot and coolant is under normal operating pressure
 

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also, can the head or block crack in an area where the leakage does not enter the combustion chamber yet still mix coolant in oil, oil in coolant? dunno that motor at all
 

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Suzuki uses this in the service manual. It's very nice but the price is why no one here has one. You put the radiator cap on it to test the cap or use an adapter to connect it to the radiator and test the coolant system. Radiator shops have tools like that. You might even find an auto parts store that will loan you one. Alternately, you can rig something up by doing something like placing a tee in the bypass hose that's connects to a pressure gauge and an air supply. But you have to be careful that the pressure doesn't exceed 15 psi or the cap will start venting and you could damage something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
did they do the leak down and pressure test when it was hot and coolant was pressurized?

a lot of times cracks and such do not leak until the engine is hot and coolant is under normal operating pressure
Unfortunately I did it when it was cold and bike was taken apart already. I had already emptied the coolant and oil since I wanted to get that nasty mix out of the bike ASAP.
 

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Radiator pressure tester kit is cheap on fleebay $50. You will need a new water pump seal anyway. You can have the water pump unbolted to see the seal. So pressure it up, That way you can check the things you can see now. If water comes out the sump plug, (oil drained), that would indicate head gasket. Get some clean oil in there and spin it around a while with the spark plugs out. What about some dishwashing liquid in the radiator water, it will bubble up somewhere.
Oil cooler on these engines are separate from radiator water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Radiator pressure tester kit is cheap on fleebay $50. You will need a new water pump seal anyway. You can have the water pump unbolted to see the seal. So pressure it up, That way you can check the things you can see now. If water comes out the sump plug, (oil drained), that would indicate head gasket. Get some clean oil in there and spin it around a while with the spark plugs out. What about some dishwashing liquid in the radiator water, it will bubble up somewhere.
Oil cooler on these engines are separate from radiator water.
Ok just want to confirm some things so I know I’m doing it right. To do the pressure test I will need to replace the seal on the water pump first before I can do that test? Since I already removed the water pumps internal seal early on to check if it was in ok condition. I’ve also drained all the coolant and oil early on because I didn’t want that mess sitting in the bike.

Your saying I should add some water or coolant back in to the radiator but no oil , replace the water pumps internal seal and bolt it back onto the bike and hook up the hoses and then do a pressure test and see if the coolant comes out of the oil drain bolt?

Also do you know if the cooling system pressure test kits they rent from autozone and advanced auto parts will work on motorcycles? I know they come with numerous adapters just wasn’t sure. They rent them for free so I figured that would be cool if I could just use one of them. If not mityvac makes a good one specific for motorcycles.
 

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if you do a cold pressure test and there is no leakage that doesn't mean it won't leak when its hot, so if it doesn't leak that doesn't automatically mean you're good to go..

when metal gets hot it expands right? so a hairline crack can open when hot, close up when cold..

I think he is saying if it does leak under pressure when cold there's a good chance you have a blown out gasket which is the best case scenario here unless there is a seal that can go i'm not aware of?

pressure test cold, if it leaks like he says good chance it's gasket, you hit paydirt, replace that head gasket inspect everything else, chain gears, so forth..

if there is no leak under a cold radiator pressure test then fire it up get it up to temp, if it begins to leak then I'd say metal, head or block, not hunnerd percent but odds are and if you pull the head and the gasket is bad slap a new on on a give her a go..

it's the history that has me thinking its metal, the bike ran fine when parked for winter but didn't have antifreeze in it, it withstood a few freezes, when water freezes it expands as well and that can crack aluminum, no reason water couldn't have expanded at the gasket and tore the gasket after all the gasket is the area of least resistance..

IMHO you have a tear down coming your way, may as well get to it, if the head gasket is in new condition you will have to x-ray head and cylinders if there is no apparent crack or flaw.. happens, why wetter and water is no good for winter, needs antifreeze.. don't forget to flush everything well, even tranny, ASAP so nothing corrodes or rusts causing more issues, ball bearings and water do not mix, flush everything well and douse with WD40 or something..
 

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I'm saying if it was just the plug you'd be ok but you have water in the oil cause the block is cracked -

But you've got way better advice from others here :geek:
Good luck with it!
 

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"To do the pressure test I will need to replace the seal on the water pump first before I can do that test?"
There are fivel seals so it's not clear what you're talking about. Three are static - two O-rings and one gasket. Two are rotating - oil and coolant (the coolant seal actually includes a rubber seal plus a creamic seal). Of them, one O-ring, the gasket, and the rotating coolant seal need to be leak free. Actually they can leak if you're just checking for bubbles or listening for a hiss. But they need to be tight if you're doing a leakdown test.

I wouldn't expect it to pass the leakdown test in your lead post if the block was cracked.
 

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you may as well tear it down right? remove head carefully and if it's bad then you got lucky, if not inspect head, find a crack you know what it is hopefully, inspect the block the same..

pressure test is just going to tell you what I think you already know, in any event at the very least head comes off for new gasket, may as well get on it....
 

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You are doing well, take it step by step. And record what you find, nothing is lost if you have to repeat a step, if your doing it yourself.
Most important is to find the cause, if you disassemble the engine completely and don't find the cause, you could rebuild the engine only to find it still leaking !
I have been studying this Forum for a while now and I haven't read anything about cracked heads / blocks, on these engines, yet.
 
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