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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After a day of trying to get this working I finally have it figured out. I went off of another schematic for an 07. This was done on an 05 750. It will work for other year bikes as well. The schematic I was looking at had something left out, or I just left it out of my brain. Anyways, it is a lot easier for me to interpret something like this via pictures.



This is how the harness is stock. You completely disregard the ignition switch, and its pigtail. You only have to cut one wire through this entire process. All of the work you will be doing is on the main harness itself. This is very simple once you have something that is correct, and easy to understand to go by.



This is what you want to aim for. Not very complicated in a picture now, eh?

The Orange/Black wire you cut (THE ONLY WIRE THAT SHOULD BE CUT), and tap it into the Red wire on the ignition part of the harness.

The Orange/White wire you tap into the Orange wire on the ignition part of the harness.

Now you take a 100 ohm .5 watt resistor (band pattern= brown|black|brown|gold) and tap it between the Orange, and Orange/Yellow wire.

For my splicing I just took one of those automatic wire strippers (the one where you just squeeze, and it spits out the sheathing), and put it over the wire that needed to be tapped into. Once the sheathing was pulled back, and the copper wire exposed I poked a whole in it to make a more secure way to hold the wire in. This way I can just take a stripped end of wire, put it through the whole, twist it around it, drop some solder on it, then tape it up.

This is what I did for all of my connections except the orange/black wire because this wire was CUT, and not TAPPED. Excuse the butt connector going from the orange wire to the orange wire (I cut this wire thinking it was my problem). Just pretend it is just the orange wire.

This is the easiest, and cleanest way of doing this. There will be no cuts made to your right side switch harness at all. All of the work you will be doing will be on the main harness. To make things easier, unplug the connector. Make sure your battery ground is disconnected.

This will not work if you do not use a resistor. I had a shit load of resistors here at the house, and the lowest one I had was 240 ohm. It worked when I tried it, but I had just got back from the surplus store buying three 100 ohm resistors. I just used on of the 100s since that is what is in the ignition switch.

You don't have to have any special tools, but it does help. For breaking the sheathing apart, you can just use a razor blade to make a cut into the sheathing ONLY and pull it back to expose the copper wire. To make the hole in the copper you just exposed, use something that has a sharp and pointy tip. Soldering the connections is advised, but you can do it the half assed way and just use electrical tape (that's on you though). I'm not responsible for anything you fuck up while doing this.

Here are pictures of my final procedure.













I'm fairly certain that just the pictures, and diagram alone will tell you what to do. If you have any questions, just ask. Good luck!
 

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Wow! Thanks for taking the time to post this. I've always wanted to try this but became too confused after reading other posts. Because of your pictures, I'm sure I'll be tackling this project sometime soon!
 

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Colonel H. Stinkmeaner
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Please tell me these are "track only" bikes?
 

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Not the powers that be, not even close.
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its why i dont post up how to do it.

so does the kill switch control everything now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Please tell me these are "track only" bikes?
Yes, this was done on a track only bike. I read numerous how to's, and various other threads and was lost. I finally figured it out my way, and it is a lot easier than reading how to do it in words. I figured this would relieve some peoples headaches while trying to accomplish this task.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
its why i dont post up how to do it.

so does the kill switch control everything now?
Yes, the kill switch controls everything now. Flip the switch to on, and its just like turning your key to the on position with the switch flipped on as well. Starter button works just like it did before. Then killing it, is just like turning your key to the off position.
 

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AKA Pee Wee Herman
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Now let me ask you this. Why not make all your cuts and splices after the connectors so you dont have to cut up the main harnes? that way it can be returned back to original and not redo eveything you did.

Only advantage to doing it your way is not having to run wires across the front of the bike, but that would only take what? 2 feet of wire?
 

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Not the powers that be, not even close.
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i made mine plug and play so i could remove it and go back to the factory ignition if i wanted and so i didnt have to cut up the harness.
 

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Not the powers that be, not even close.
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i make them.

what year make and model would you like?
i have a listing in the classifieds here and wera.
i dont have any ready made at this time, but it doesnt take long. have you seen mine on my bike?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Now let me ask you this. Why not make all your cuts and splices after the connectors so you dont have to cut up the main harnes? that way it can be returned back to original and not redo eveything you did.

Only advantage to doing it your way is not having to run wires across the front of the bike, but that would only take what? 2 feet of wire?
You just answered your own question. That way it is clean up front. Also, I found this the easiest way to do it. If I wanted to go back to stock, all I would have to do is pull back the tape, cut off the wires that were tapped, tape those up, and connect the B/O together again. That would take a whole 5 minutes literally. Regardless, if you want to go back to stock, no matter what part of the harness you used, you're still going to have to do the same amount of work.
 

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AKA Pee Wee Herman
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You just answered your own question. That way it is clean up front. Also, I found this the easiest way to do it. If I wanted to go back to stock, all I would have to do is pull back the tape, cut off the wires that were tapped, tape those up, and connect the B/O together again. That would take a whole 5 minutes literally. Regardless, if you want to go back to stock, no matter what part of the harness you used, you're still going to have to do the same amount of work.
That is what I thought, but if I went to buy a bike and found all of that taping and shit to the harnes I would think theft recovery before anything else. Maybe not an issue for some people, as most track bikes are not clear titled, but mine has a clear title, and if I wanted I can return it to stock and sell it with a clear title.

I would rather come across a set of broken controls and switches and use the harness than to cut up my main harness.

But to each his own.

But, regardless, I still have to thank you for this post, I still plan on using your wire schematic to rewire my bike, but I am gonna do it after the connectors.

:cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That is what I thought, but if I went to buy a bike and found all of that taping and shit to the harnes I would think theft recovery before anything else. Maybe not an issue for some people, as most track bikes are not clear titled, but mine has a clear title, and if I wanted I can return it to stock and sell it with a clear title.

I would rather come across a set of broken controls and switches and use the harness than to cut up my main harness.

But to each his own.

But, regardless, I still have to thank you for this post, I still plan on using your wire schematic to rewire my bike, but I am gonna do it after the connectors.

:cheers
I don't think you understand it, as you haven't done it firsthand (which is what I figured, but didn't want to assume). You completely remove the ignition switch along with its pigtail (harness). All you're left with is the connector for the ignition harness on the main side, and the right side controls (its harness, and the main harness). If it's a track only bike, why not remove the ignition switch to make room for other stuff, and shed some ounces? Kill two birds with one stone is how I see it.

If you do leave it in, and do it the way you're talking about, I would be more opposed to thinking theft recovery if done that way. All of those wires you can access from outside of the bike. The main harness is tucked away behind the neck of the frame next to the pair valve.

Either way you do it, this will work. You're still going to have to cut the B/O wire. Good luck!
 

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AKA Pee Wee Herman
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I don't think you understand it, as you haven't done it firsthand (which is what I figured, but didn't want to assume). You completely remove the ignition switch along with its pigtail (harness). All you're left with is the connector for the ignition harness on the main side, and the right side controls (its harness, and the main harness). If it's a track only bike, why not remove the ignition switch to make room for other stuff, and shed some ounces? Kill two birds with one stone is how I see it.

If you do leave it in, and do it the way you're talking about, I would be more opposed to thinking theft recovery if done that way. All of those wires you can access from outside of the bike. The main harness is tucked away behind the neck of the frame next to the pair valve.

Either way you do it, this will work. You're still going to have to cut the B/O wire. Good luck!
I do understand, I do not need to have done it to understand. I am certifed by BMW in body electronics, plus specialized electronics training by GM, I know a thing or two about 12v.

I think you are the one that doesnt understand. My point was that if you do it with an old ign switch and an old kill switch harness, you can unplug all of that stuff and plug in factory switches and the bike is 100% factory instead of having a hacked up main harness. You can still remove the ignition switch and have a "jumper" harness made from an old ign switch, which if you wanted you can do like Tom did and get your hands on the factory connectors and make "jumper" harnesses that just plug in and you would be able to sell them to people who do not want to try this themselves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I do understand, I do not need to have done it to understand. I am certifed by BMW in body electronics, plus specialized electronics training by GM, I know a thing or two about 12v.

I think you are the one that doesnt understand. My point was that if you do it with an old ign switch and an old kill switch harness, you can unplug all of that stuff and plug in factory switches and the bike is 100% factory instead of having a hacked up main harness. You can still remove the ignition switch and have a "jumper" harness made from an old ign switch, which if you wanted you can do like Tom did and get your hands on the factory connectors and make "jumper" harnesses that just plug in and you would be able to sell them to people who do not want to try this themselves.
Ok, now I understand your concept. You never said anything about using an 'old' switch, and RS control. The point of this is for those who are cheap like me, and would rather spend their money else where.

Have fun with that BMW shit... I previously owned an E36 3/4/5, and an E39 540I. That E39 was ridiculous.
 

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That is what I thought, but if I went to buy a bike and found all of that taping and shit to the harnes I would think theft recovery before anything else. Maybe not an issue for some people, as most track bikes are not clear titled, but mine has a clear title, and if I wanted I can return it to stock and sell it with a clear title.
Exactly why I would go with your method.
 

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AKA Pee Wee Herman
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Ok, now I understand your concept. You never said anything about using an 'old' switch, and RS control. The point of this is for those who are cheap like me, and would rather spend their money else where.

Have fun with that BMW shit... I previously owned an E36 3/4/5, and an E39 540I. That E39 was ridiculous.
I thought I mentioned the old switches in my op. But yeah that was what I meant. I am sure you can find a theft recovery or busted up ign switch easily.


E39s are gravy boats. We usually dont see them for months at a time, but when we do we get a ton of them and they all need a good amount of maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
****ATTENTION****

I just found this out today... If you want to run a fan there is just one more wire involved. It is the Orange/Red wire on the ignition side of the harness. Just tap it into the orange wire on the ignition harness. OR, you can do what I did because I didn't feel like digging back under the airbox.

I went straight to the fuse box. I just used one of those plastic wire taps. Took me a whole 20 seconds to put it on, but about 20 mins to figure out exactly what it was that I needed to do in order to get the fan to work.

Here's what I did. It will work either way though.





 
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