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Discussion Starter #1
I tried using search but wow does the search feature suck ... lol

anyway I got a used oem cm tensioner. Anyone got any tips or tricks?

Some people say I should remove valve cover and zip tie cams, others say it just slides on. Others say it needs to be tensioned and released when install. Im familiar with timing engines and i can replace cam gears in my truck but on the motorcycle ive never replaced one. 20 thousand miles. 2011 k9 1000/

Thanks in advance.
 

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Captain Obvious ... because obviously it’s obvious
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First tip: don't use a used tensioner.
 

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I agree. No used cam chain tensioner. Thats one of those items u REALLY dont want to fail after u got a great deal on it.
Is there a mechanical reason for the swap?
As far as procedure goes.... I would take some of the $$$ u saved on the purchase and get a good service manual.
The biggest problem u will encounter when replacing ur tensioner is if the cam chain comes off the teeth of the crank gear. but that SHOULDN'T happen:shifty. So long as the chain doesnt come off cams or crank and u back the tensioner off slowly and evenly u should be ok. As you remove the bolts do so a few threads at a time and tap on tensioner body to get the remaining tension to push it out. that way u will be able to tell when the tension is completely off and the extra tension wont snap the body back and give the chain some momentum to jar itself loose from cam drive gear (@ crank).
Honestly I would just remove the clutch cover just in case. I have personally witnessed the cam chain hang a link at the crank when removing cams and after the install u rotate the motor to 'be sure' and u come close to ruining a lot of work and creating some expensive problems. with one link hanging @ crank u can get ur link count correct across cams and install tensioner and be really off! I mean a lot off!
good luck!
 

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Captain Obvious ... because obviously it’s obvious
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What I usually see is people removing the valve cover and using zip-ties to secure the chain to the cam, preventing it from jumping or the cams from somehow rotating. If the chain does jump, you get to have fun degreeing the cams to the proper position.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies. The reason I want to change it is because I hear a clunk whenfirst taking off. I checked and the sprockets are good and so is the chain. I cant think of anything else. I just ordered a PDF version of the servive shop and Ill open the clutch cover and valve cover to be safe. Ill get a new one. If anone wants the copy of the pdf message me and Ill send it as soon as I get ahold of it.
 

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sounds more like clutch than CCS. Maybe cush drive.

man, things like this should really be diagnosed (and even worked on) by a professional as coming to this conclusion from a clunk from takeoff- buying a used CCT- and planning on doing it yourself sounds like a good recipe for a lot of problems..
 

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Captain Obvious ... because obviously it’s obvious
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Yeah, this sounds like having a nail hole in your wall and knocking down the wall to fix it.
 

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sounds more like clutch than CCS. Maybe cush drive.

man, things like this should really be diagnosed (and even worked on) by a professional as coming to this conclusion from a clunk from takeoff- buying a used CCT- and planning on doing it yourself sounds like a good recipe for a lot of problems..
jjman is probably on to the issue.
Try turning the rear sprocket forward and backward with both wheels on the ground. The rear sprocket hub cushions might be toast. You shouldn't be able to move the rear sprocket at all.

P.S. a camchain tensioner noise is usually heard most when the bike is idling and often gets quieter as the engine loads the cam sprockets on acceleration unless its really really loose.

Another reason mechanics pull the valve cover is to set the tension on a "MANUAL" adjuster.
They'll watch the camshafts as they turn the engine back and forth. First with a little slack in the chain, then tighten adjuster and go back and forth again, until they don't have any lag between turning crank and camshaft movement.

People who simply tighten the adjuster while the engine is running until they don't hear chain clacking, often over tighten the camchain leading to premature camchain stretch or breakage.

With what you're describing with clutch release, it's not a camchain issue. Most likely a drivetrain issue.
If you don't have slack on sprocket hub, I would take the time to pull the front sprocket cover also and check your front sprocket nut and make sure everything is tight, rear sprocket bolts as well.
 

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That clunk you're hearing is most likely clutch related. Pull the cover off and have a look at the basket&hub for grooves/notches. If some of the plates are hung up due to notches or grooves then the plates cannot slide back&forth easily..this will cause a variety of issues,clunking going into 1st gear at a full stop being one.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You guys bring very good points. The reason I was trying to to take to a shop is because locally our shops aren't that great and they will try everything and anything to get your money. With that being said ... The clunk is only in 1st from a stop.no hesitation at all. Doesn't rattle at idle and does not do it at idle. Sprockets look good and tight. cush drive is fine and firm. I'm now suspecting something in the clutch drive.
 
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