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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, a very happy new year to you all!!

I'm doing a full nut n' bolt jobbie on a 98 SRAD 600 and it is looking incredible, I will bore the hell out of you all with some pictures very soon!

One of the jobs I am preparing for is a full respray which I will do myself.
At present, the bike is the most horrendous cowboy Alstare colors.. laquer over transfers, innacurate transfer, cracking everywhere it's laughable..
I plan to restore the bike to the original white / blue scheme (which is the colour scheme I used to drool over as a 16-year old when the SRAD what pride of place in the Carnell showroom!!

I plan on applying the following decal set to the bike once painted, (i prefer the 99 scheme but this is a very sympathetic restoration) I would be glad to hear any feedback if you have it, please...


A question if you don't mind; with reference to the picture below, do you happen to know if the blue sections on the tank and headlight fairing are painted or if they are transfers, please?
I have a feeling it is painted but would appreciate your input.


Thank you all!!


Sam.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The decals are not bad, but the colors are not a great match for the oem ones. The dark blue on top of the tank where the suzuki is, is painted,the lighter blue lower on tank is a decal.
Thank you! I assume the front cowling surrounding the headlights is also painted in the same colour as the tank?

Thanks again.
 

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that scheme is going to take 3 different colors right?

the front cowl is painted a darker blue than the fairings and the white is decal, the tank and tail hump lower V cowl is painted white some stickered, side panel is painted a lighter blue and the white suzuki over that, the darker blue above is sticker, in front of the V cowl on the side panel white is a sticker..

you'll want to do this so the stickers when laid on are flush with layers of paint, so say where the white goes in front of V cowl on lower side panels, you paint that the applicable blue but tape off where that sticker goes, then the tape comes off and the sticker butts up against that paint line, that allows the sticker and paint to be flush..

OR stickers go on top of paints, you will have bumps when waxing or whatever unless you put like 20 coats of lacquer over the top..

with the tape off style butting the stickers up tot he paint lines 1 or 2 thin coats of lacquer will work seamlessly for a smooth surface and weigh the least..


sealer/adherent
primer
paint/stickers
clear

either way you prep is going to be your final product, ANYTHING you use needs flex added to it whether it be primer, sealer, paint, filler.. so you want to take the plastic down to a very smooth finish, some finishes use an adherent, the plastic leaches oils, so you have to create a barrier tween your plastic and sealer, I think you can get all in one sealer sticky stuff?

also, all layers are thin as you can get for weight, so my best guess is they go as think as they can with the mix and as STICKY as they can get, you need flex and non shrink for sure..

its not like painting wood or metal in any way, it needs to be flexable, seal the oils from leaching or bubbling and then very light or you can add 20+ lbs to the bike from too much sealer primer paint clear..

the prep and first paint is METICULOUS I would tap off where stickers go if they are not applied on top for no seams and LESS paint on body work, why put paint under a sticker it only adds weight?

they did the Hayabusa panels sticker or graphics over then a ton of clear and man each side panel weights like 15 lbs easy, very heavy, after insulation and Faraday panels man, they weigh a GRIP, gotta be honest I've never lifted a stock SRAD panel ever, all I have ever had have been rattled over.. but still not near as heavy as the Busa panels but pretty much exact same size, fact is they almost fit one another..

if you're just going for a show piece then no matter, but if its track or a good canyon bike the weight matters...

if you have some plastics for practicing how thin yo can go VS amount of flex and adherent additive be best, get that mix perfect

on the 2005 GSXR 1000 Suzuki experimented a bit, they put the sealer, flex, adherent, hardener all in one, no primer!

welp, the panels were very very light indeed, however after time wind speed just ripped the finish right off the leading edges, Suzuki put out a recall and replaced every leading edge panel, nose both side panels, saw some bad ones.. I got new ones and mine were only road chipped, but so easily chipped, no clear and not much hardener..

perhaps the mix was wrong not sure and not sure if Suzuki perused the idea or nixed it? it was all an effort to reduce paint times and reduce weight, its also the first year they went with puzzled body work to reduce tape off, pieces snapped together or pinned, very thin stickers.. very little paint.. worked for me?

lots to think of here, but mainly your prep will be you final finish in a nutshell, or your finish can only be as good as your prep, no filler, bondo so forth..

then the paint mix and additives will determine, luster, shine, durability and weight, make sure it has UV! at least in the clear if you are using clear.. sealer, adhesive, flex, UV, and thin but sticky if you want weight savings..

real painters prolly have a video or something so you have all the info you need to do a top job, hale maybe you're a pro?

I want to paint mine, I have 2 SRADS need paint.. badly, flat black at the moment not very attractive..

really want to do this, I have all the sprayers brand new still in package I bought like 20 years ago at costco, maybe 25 years ago? 30?

just need an oil-less compressor, mock booth, fan filtration, I'll make a simple one, my square fan with AC filters tape to it, cardboard and tape exhaust manifold to funnel it away to outdoors.. do it when weather is prime..

I have seen those paint systems that use canned air, they are pretty cool, you have a mix bottle that screws to the paint tip air can so its sorta spray can style, you can get assorted tip sizes and patterns.. very compact

its like aerosol but you get to mix the paint and use real clean canned air, extremely portable and light set up.. real cool, check it at stewmac dot com.. I have been considering this style to reduce size of project, clean up all that stuff.. wont need compressor, can mix enough in one large container then just refill can sprayer, they have a name for the system, most use it to paint guitar bodies..

PLUS I can spray guitar bodies with it!!!! WINNING!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
that scheme is going to take 3 different colors right?

the front cowl is painted a darker blue than the fairings and the white is decal, the tank and tail hump lower V cowl is painted white some stickered, side panel is painted a lighter blue and the white suzuki over that, the darker blue above is sticker, in front of the V cowl on the side panel white is a sticker..

you'll want to do this so the stickers when laid on are flush with layers of paint, so say where the white goes in front of V cowl on lower side panels, you paint that the applicable blue but tape off where that sticker goes, then the tape comes off and the sticker butts up against that paint line, that allows the sticker and paint to be flush..

OR stickers go on top of paints, you will have bumps when waxing or whatever unless you put like 20 coats of lacquer over the top..

with the tape off style butting the stickers up tot he paint lines 1 or 2 thin coats of lacquer will work seamlessly for a smooth surface and weigh the least..


sealer/adherent
primer
paint/stickers
clear

either way you prep is going to be your final product, ANYTHING you use needs flex added to it whether it be primer, sealer, paint, filler.. so you want to take the plastic down to a very smooth finish, some finishes use an adherent, the plastic leaches oils, so you have to create a barrier tween your plastic and sealer, I think you can get all in one sealer sticky stuff?

also, all layers are thin as you can get for weight, so my best guess is they go as think as they can with the mix and as STICKY as they can get, you need flex and non shrink for sure..

its not like painting wood or metal in any way, it needs to be flexable, seal the oils from leaching or bubbling and then very light or you can add 20+ lbs to the bike from too much sealer primer paint clear..

the prep and first paint is METICULOUS I would tap off where stickers go if they are not applied on top for no seams and LESS paint on body work, why put paint under a sticker it only adds weight?

they did the Hayabusa panels sticker or graphics over then a ton of clear and man each side panel weights like 15 lbs easy, very heavy, after insulation and Faraday panels man, they weigh a GRIP, gotta be honest I've never lifted a stock SRAD panel ever, all I have ever had have been rattled over.. but still not near as heavy as the Busa panels but pretty much exact same size, fact is they almost fit one another..

if you're just going for a show piece then no matter, but if its track or a good canyon bike the weight matters...

if you have some plastics for practicing how thin yo can go VS amount of flex and adherent additive be best, get that mix perfect

on the 2005 GSXR 1000 Suzuki experimented a bit, they put the sealer, flex, adherent, hardener all in one, no primer!

welp, the panels were very very light indeed, however after time wind speed just ripped the finish right off the leading edges, Suzuki put out a recall and replaced every leading edge panel, nose both side panels, saw some bad ones.. I got new ones and mine were only road chipped, but so easily chipped, no clear and not much hardener..

perhaps the mix was wrong not sure and not sure if Suzuki perused the idea or nixed it? it was all an effort to reduce paint times and reduce weight, its also the first year they went with puzzled body work to reduce tape off, pieces snapped together or pinned, very thin stickers.. very little paint.. worked for me?

lots to think of here, but mainly your prep will be you final finish in a nutshell, or your finish can only be as good as your prep, no filler, bondo so forth..

then the paint mix and additives will determine, luster, shine, durability and weight, make sure it has UV! at least in the clear if you are using clear.. sealer, adhesive, flex, UV, and thin but sticky if you want weight savings..

real painters prolly have a video or something so you have all the info you need to do a top job, hale maybe you're a pro?

I want to paint mine, I have 2 SRADS need paint.. badly, flat black at the moment not very attractive..

really want to do this, I have all the sprayers brand new still in package I bought like 20 years ago at costco, maybe 25 years ago? 30?

just need an oil-less compressor, mock booth, fan filtration, I'll make a simple one, my square fan with AC filters tape to it, cardboard and tape exhaust manifold to funnel it away to outdoors.. do it when weather is prime..

I have seen those paint systems that use canned air, they are pretty cool, you have a mix bottle that screws to the paint tip air can so its sorta spray can style, you can get assorted tip sizes and patterns.. very compact

its like aerosol but you get to mix the paint and use real clean canned air, extremely portable and light set up.. real cool, check it at stewmac dot com.. I have been considering this style to reduce size of project, clean up all that stuff.. wont need compressor, can mix enough in one large container then just refill can sprayer, they have a name for the system, most use it to paint guitar bodies..

PLUS I can spray guitar bodies with it!!!! WINNING!

Thanks for the monster reply Twisted, I really appreciate the detail.
A little more background, I am an amateur mechanic, all my time so far has been spent building a very fast car, never touched bikes. I have done my fair share of bodywork and painting though and have most of the high(enough)end kit to paint at home; compressor, filters, guns, regulators etc.

So... The graphics set I am looking at has everything except the Pearl Dark Blue sections on the headlight fairing and tank.
The front fairing will be fully painted in Pearl dark blue and the tank masked off and painted accordingly.
I buy my paints from Advanced Paints in the UK, they are incredibly helpful and have recommended the correct additives to work in partnership with the plastic fairings to prevent cracking.

Realistically, I will paint the whole fairing and tank in the pearl white/pearl dark blue and laquer then apply the decals, you make a good point around weight but I am willing to live with that. I am also not overly worried about minuscule depth differences, I think that should be ok but I appreciate your comments.
Weight is a consideration though, as it was for my car as that's a track weapon too.

Prep I must be honest is making me a little nervous, stripping the tank is easy as it's metal but I can't use paint stripper on the plastic so this is going to need a fair amount of elbow grease to get it ready, but I fully understand that the prep gives the finish. On a side note, my last project was a shaved engine bay on my honda civic which came out incredibly well (250-hour piece of work mind). By all means, check out @civwivasnail on Instagram if you want to take a look.

Thanks again for your input I am very grateful!!!


Sam.
 

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I've seen some ABS safe gels that takes the paint off and leaves a good surface..

once you get into sanding plastic man it can go and go and you definitely have use a series and get it down to around at least 1200 or it shows unless you are willing to just put in nice thick coats, also heat will release the paint as well and leave the plastic beneath undisturbed, have to control that real well but it does work, tank is no big deal hit it with eat till it bubbles off..

if you can get a hold of some plastic bodywork of the same area that's maybe wrecked and no good practice a few techniques on that, heat, ABS safe gel whatever..

sanding would be my last option, be nice to get that old paint to lift and leave that smooth plastic beneath, then no real prep is required.. as you said whatever you do to it is going to show through unless you add a lot of paint, thick coats..

Imma go really thin coats with very thin paint in the bottle, water thin, but sticky, I do have 2 panels to practice on to get it right first,,

I'm in same boat how to get that old paint off, I think mine is rattled flat black over stock so i may have decals as well.. could get ugly..

do let us know please.. :)

here is an interesting process, he should have a nice ready to go surface no sanding at all, that's what I would like too


couple more..




 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've seen some ABS safe gels that takes the paint off and leaves a good surface..

once you get into sanding plastic man it can go and go and you definitely have use a series and get it down to around at least 1200 or it shows unless you are willing to just put in nice thick coats, also heat will release the paint as well and leave the plastic beneath undisturbed, have to control that real well but it does work, tank is no big deal hit it with eat till it bubbles off..

if you can get a hold of some plastic bodywork of the same area that's maybe wrecked and no good practice a few techniques on that, heat, ABS safe gel whatever..

sanding would be my last option, be nice to get that old paint to lift and leave that smooth plastic beneath, then no real prep is required.. as you said whatever you do to it is going to show through unless you add a lot of paint, thick coats..

Imma go really thin coats with very thin paint in the bottle, water thin, but sticky, I do have 2 panels to practice on to get it right first,,

I'm in same boat how to get that old paint off, I think mine is rattled flat black over stock so i may have decals as well.. could get ugly..

do let us know please.. :)

here is an interesting process, he should have a nice ready to go surface no sanding at all, that's what I would like too


couple more..





Thanks again, Twisted!!

All very useful resources I am very grateful!

I'll definitely keep you posted!!
 

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cool yea I have 2 sets, I been looking at that Red/Blackish 98 600 scheme, mine is a 98 and I think it was originally that scheme, I see that red on the inside panels and the V was red..

its real easy, its all painted that red then snickered, the hump is panted black with stickers, prolly go red on that as well and sue stickers..

all one color is right up my alley, prolly use either spray cans from color rite or I'll use the mixer jars with the compressed air cans, that way I can mix my own, thin and sticky so i can use minimal for weight savings, toss a lil' extra UV in it as well for the southwest sun torture..

my FI 750 I think I wanna go the 98 750 white/blue with slight red highlights... I'll take my time on that one put more into it since its FI and a better scheme.. I may even go with some extra decals from Tapeworks or something, but on the outside of clear coat, I like to go with a different colored R and maybe the 750, right over the top of the original so it can easily be removed but if my bike goes missing I have that extra detail my friends and I can spot right away..

we do this to our bikes and its paid off, chased down one bike got it back and one helmet, all cuz of the original details spotted right away..

always good to touch your bike like that in some fashion, lighting is best cuz they never remove that, custom signals, something, a few things is best, so you and those who ride with you can spot it easy..

like to go over a few stock graphics with custom that way they can be removed easily by me but to the thief he prolly wont get it, subtle, like reverse the G and the sxr colors, done that on my 05GSXR 1000 and told no one and no one ever noticed it, or no one ever said anything, but if it were side by side with another you could see they were different..

cool man....!
 

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I'm not sure about this but it may be a basis for others to straighten out. As best I can tell, you're trying to achieve the L99 paint scheme. The principle colors are 0JW Pearl Still White and 1LF Pearl Suzuki Deep Blue. But there's also some secondary colors, 1LE Pearl Suzuki Medium Blue and Y3P Light Blue Metallic. Another source for paint in Europe is R.H. Lacke. With regard to stripping this and this may help. I'd never heard of blasting with cornstarch before. I think the Armex material is soda.
 

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The paint on these take a lot of time and is not for the novice, multiple layers and many hours. 9 layers just to get the white pearl & one coat of lacquer on. Pics of one im in the middle of for a 99 750 Fi, two pack paint.
IMG_0449.JPG
IMG_0451.JPG
IMG_0448.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you all again for your input, I really appreciate it!

I've bought (awaiting delivery) a genuine side firing that's cracked to tests the paint stripper and have a practice, I'll keep you all posted on that front.
I'm still not near the bodywork, a few items to wrap up on the mechanical side which is coming together incredibly well, I had originally planned to restore and sell the bike but its looking far too good to sell, so this will form part of the collection.

I'll definitely keep you all posted, I expect a majority of the brands we get over here (UK rabble) may differ from the states but I will share my findings.

Thanks again!!


Sam
 

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The paint on these take a lot of time and is not for the novice, multiple layers and many hours. 9 layers just to get the white pearl & one coat of lacquer on. Pics of one im in the middle of for a 99 750 Fi, two pack paint.
View attachment 574813 View attachment 574814 View attachment 574815

can you possibly post up the steps using pics, taping off, spray, and different layers, real help here.. we need a good paint procedural for at least one bike, I do understand some paints require base, others don't, can we get a quick clarification on that?

possibly how you mix for each regarding thickness so forth? really appreciate it it maybe we can sticky it and build on it..

I take you are not using decals?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah more than happy tp post a step-by-step, absolutely.
And yes, I will be using a decal kit but the bike will still need two colours, both colours require a base.

To set expectations, I am not a pro-painter, I'm just a solid amateur mechanic not afraid to take on anything.
I've had huge success with painting my car using the same kit (lots of lessons learned).

I don't plan on starting just yet (job for Feb) but when I do, I'll get the whole process documented with pics, including the test phase of paint stripping and adhesion tests.

Watch this space :)
 

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NICE!

I clearly have to wait for warmer weather, may is best for me, think I wanna do the solid red with decals for the 98 600 red/greyish scheme, simple
 

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NICE!

I clearly have to wait for warmer weather, may is best for me, think I wanna do the solid red with decals for the 98 600 red/greyish scheme, simple
I am quite sure mine was originally the red scheme, saying that, I fell in love with the white / blue so that is the plan.

Anything is better than the horrendous fake Allstare job, it's nasty!
 

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I am quite sure mine was originally the red scheme, saying that, I fell in love with the white / blue so that is the plan.

Anything is better than the horrendous fake Allstare job, it's nasty!
If it is oem & foxhound the cosmetics are hard to get hold of. You could sell them and buy a cheaper set for the full repaint.
 

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If it is oem & foxhound the cosmetics are hard to get hold of. You could sell them and buy a cheaper set for the full repaint.
It's a good point.. but.. Whoever did this paint job literally had no idea what they were doing, it's covered in hairline cracks, not aligned with the original scheme.. shoddy work.
The only course of action is to start all over again unfortauntely.
 

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I am quite sure mine was originally the red scheme, saying that, I fell in love with the white / blue so that is the plan.

Anything is better than the horrendous fake Allstare job, it's nasty!

yea I wanna do the white/blue on the 750, original for year I have 99..

I'd like to have a stock allstare, good tank and all,makes it look like a totally different bike IMO, gold wheels, real sharp bike.. be like finding hens teeth I'm sure
 
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