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I was riding in the city last night and I reached 261F. At what point should I pull over. The idle was getting really low and actually shut off a couple of times. Ape makes a overhead oiling kit for 255.00. What do u think will it work?
 

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I've got a Carolina Cycle top-end oiler on the B12... use it primarily to protect the cam lobes and rocker pads but I suppose the extra volume of oil up top would help cooling a little.

The B12 routinely runs 250°F-ish temps in the pan; I don't worry about it a lot but do change my oil every 1500 miles or so... 260°F wouldn't scare or surprise me at all if I were riding fairly hard.

There have been a few times when the temp in the sump has hit 300°F when I've gotten hung up in traffic and couldn't move... I'll pretty much change the oil right away after one of those trips.

If the bike is getting really groggy with a low idle it sounds more as though you're suffering from the onset of vapor lock (fuel is boiling in the carbs).
 

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Simon your does not count you have three coolers on yours...On my 90 1216 it stays at around 245-250 deg. In stop and go traffic it goes to 260-270
the clutch will start to slip at about 275. My streetfighter is like Simon's and has a extra cooler for the head as well as the top end oiler kit. The top end oiler doe not cool the oil just routes it better. Check Simon's website for pics of how he did the extra coolers using the small oil coolers from water pumpers, He did a great job.
Bones
 

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Aw shucks, t'wernt nuthin


I was wondering what their ambient temps were so I could sort of have a baseline. Aside from them not having 3 coolers, they're also straddling the nuclear power plant of motors, I'm only a 907. So that should buy me a couple of degrees less heat.

I finally bought a tap in NPT threading so I can plumb that digital temp guage...Norskog guage. Maybe I'll do that this weekend. Then I'd better get more oil I suppose.
 

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I did not want mine in the pan so I put it in the main oil galley. I pulled the large plug in the case down near the pan on the RH side, drilled and taped the center of the plug (right where you used to put the allen wrench) and then put the sender in with some JB weld to make sure the plug came out by turning the sender. The plug is sealed with a O-ring and I always use anti-seize on its threads. Works great. I have a Daytona unit on my 88 and 90.
Bones
 

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What's the ambient temperature when you're hitting 260 and 300 degrees?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Typical weather for Charlotte NC... low-to-mid 80°F's Spring and Fall, mid-to-upper 90°F's in the Summer.

On my 90 1216 it stays at around 245-250 deg. In stop and go traffic it goes to 260-270
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Mine's very similar, although once the heat starts to build in traffic it'll hit 290°F in just a few minutes.

I've seen 300°F+ in the pan a couple of times... didn't dare shut it off, figured it might not re-start that hot... hate to think how hot the cylinder head actually was, you probably could have melted solder on it near the exhaust ports
 
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