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K3/K4 diameters: Caliper: 30.175/38.12 and MC: 14.0215
K3/K4 areas: Caliper: 7426 and MC 154
Hydraulic ratio: 48.1 (way too soft, is that trailing diameter right?)

Your trailing diameter is incorrect.

You have added 4 front caliper (30.175 diameter) areas with 4 rear caliper (38.12 diameter) areas together to = 7426 total.

The K3-K4 front calipers piston diameters are all the same size @ ( 30.150 - 30.200)

The correct total area using 8 x 30.175 diameters = 5721.03

Yes the fact remains, the K3 - K4 has the smallest front brake caliper ( by total caliper piston area) ever on a GSX-R1000.

5721.03 with a 14.0215 MC (154.41), the OEM hydraulic ratio is 37.05 not 48.1.
 

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^I see it now and you're right. I was confused by the K3/K4 data only listing the Front and Rear, while for other years Front is subdivided into Leading and Trailing. The 38.12 value is for the rear caliper piston, not the trailing front piston. That 37.05 ratio is still way too soft.

I gather that switching to R6/Sumitomo calipers was once popular. My best info is that their area is around 5140 so they also need to be used with a smaller MC. I think the R6 MC was 16 mm, giving a 25.6 ratio.

I believe the K9 MC will help but, as JK750 mentions, it's Suzuki. The 17RCS is higher quality and has an adjustable mechanical ratio. But it's also a lot more expensive. Accossato used to be comparable but I've lost touch with them.
 

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I didn't wade through them all but here's a recalled MC that's currently for sale. Send in the cops?
I guess in court, Suzuki can argue they did all they could to prevent a crash from occurring.
Or maybe it is cheaper for large company's to do nothing, and just pay out faulty vehicle, and injury claims. :cry:
 

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K6 gsx-r 1000
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Discussion Starter #86
So I was thinking about building that tool you use to compress your forks to change your seals and everything I realize I need to wait to do it till I figure out how to actually adjust the suspension for my weight. Incase I need stiffer springs or whatever. Anyway dose anyone have the dimensions for the tool? How long? How much dose it need to compress and what's the side of the bolts that need to go into either side ?

Also looks like my bike is lowered. I know how to bring the front back up but will any of these holes bring me back up. Also is it set to the highest setting or the lowest?
573622
 

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The c-c distance for the OEM lever rod is 180 mm. You should be able to figure out which one matches that. I'm guessing it's the lowest hole. The bolts for the lever rod and the bolt for the front of the rocker arm were originally gun drilled. The lower shock bolt is not. I can't see the front rocker arm bolt but your lever rod bolts have been replaced for some reason or other.


As I recall, there are youtube videos showing front fork tools made from hardware store parts like pipe nipples and eye bolts.

P.S. Added "distance" to text.
 

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K6 gsx-r 1000
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Discussion Starter #88
Any chance you know the distance between the center holes of your stock links? And ya none of my bolts are like that.
 

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You figured it out but I updated my text to make it clearer anyway.

Those undrilled bolts may have come with the lowering links so the previous owner used them. But while you're there, it wouldn't hurt to check the bearings in the rocker arm. See this and surrounding posts for what can happen.

The nearby kickstand mounting bolts tend to freeze in place. They have a hex socket drive that isn't very deep. One of mine came out with difficulty but the other stripped the hex socket. I used a Channellock on the head to get it out.

Hardware stores sell a similar flanged head bolt with an external hex. It's slightly higher but still clears the springs. You might consider replacing yours but be aware that they thread into the frame and you'll be in trouble if they should happen to snap. There's a nearby hole in frame that ought to allow you to get some penetrating oil onto the inside of the bolts.
 

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K6 gsx-r 1000
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Discussion Starter #91
Cool beans man. And ya I have access to whatever kinda bolts I need so I'll check that kickstand out. And to be honest as soon as I get the engine fired off And running right I'm going to go ahead and replace every bearing on the bike. Wheels, swing arm, head bearings and the 3 in the rocker arms. Thank ya bro.
 

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That linked thread by RichW426 is a really good guide for working your way through the bike.
 

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So I was thinking about building that tool you use to compress your forks to change your seals and everything I realize I need to wait to do it till I figure out how to actually adjust the suspension for my weight. Incase I need stiffer springs or whatever. Anyway dose anyone have the dimensions for the tool? How long? How much dose it need to compress and what's the side of the bolts that need to go into either side ?

Also looks like my bike is lowered. I know how to bring the front back up but will any of these holes bring me back up. Also is it set to the highest setting or the lowest? View attachment 573622
Dimensions for the Fork Spring Compressor I made, a copy of what I found searching on here. Fork spring compressor, Steering head and Rear linkage.
 

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K6 gsx-r 1000
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Discussion Starter #95
Ok kinda needing some help. Im going to do I valve clearance check and have the spark plugs out. Valve cover off and went to adjust the cams and went to turn the bolt clockwise like the manual states and I feel like I'm gonna snap the bolt. I felt the bolt tighten about a third of a turn but the engine isn't moving. Please oh please tell me I'm doing something wrong and this thing isn't locked up. Should the bike roll when it's in gear? Bc it only rolls in neutral and won't budge otherwise. I sure hope this isn't why the teath are eat off my starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
So I'm thinking it's either a seized engine or hopefully homeboy I got the bike from messed with the cam chain tentioner and Mandy it jumped a tooth??? And is pressed up against the valves. So I'm thinking about removing the cams to see if I can free the crank up. I realize this will mean I'm gonna have to re Aline the chain completely if I do this so would that be easier with the engine out if the bike or should I leave it in?
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Well I found out I can just. Line up the marks on the bottom. Not as hard as I thought it would be. So ya. I'm taking them cams off, wish me luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Well pretty sure I'm screwed, removed the cams. Bolts where tight ass hell, chain was in a bind until cams finally broke loos even after the tentioner was removed, engine is locked up, I removed the starter clutch cover and noticed metal shavings in the bottom of the case. Pretty heart broken
573718
573720
573721
573722


FML ...
 

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Always best to put the bike in Neutral, before rotating crankshaft clockwise.

Hopefully the metal shavings is just from the Starter motor.
 
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