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That is the old master cylinder, Suzuki will take that off you, if they see it.( It Is Faulty and needs replacing) I think you have to take the bike to Suzuki, They need to know the work was done on this bike. You can't just take in the MC.
BillV makes a good point here :- I'm not 100% sure but it looks like you have the frame recall but not the MC recall. Beware, the bracket that supports the MC reservoir was replaced during the recall and has been removed from the market. It has some value for use with an aftermarket MC (Brembo, etc.) so I suggest that you replace it with a junk strap before letting Suzuki do the recall or it will be forever gone.
 

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K6 gsx-r 1000
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Discussion Starter #62
Ok are you talking about the silver bracket that holds the reservoir up ? And I was just thinking about replacing the master cylinder with this since brakes seem to be pretty important
573493
 

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The OEM two-piece calipers aren't very good (search here) and the caliper to MC area ratio isn't good either. You're significantly better off with a 17RCS and K9-L1 mono-block calipers. The area ratio is slightly high with the 17RCS and the OEM calipers. It's been a while but I think you can get a 17 or 19RCS for around $260 if you watch the sales.

"could just get the correct resister and hack the one I already have since I plan on replacing it anyway"
What's wrong with your current switch? It must have a resistor or the bike wouldn't run. I think that switch was used on lots of bikes so you ought to be able to find a used OEM switch in decent condition for a lot less. You'll still need to get it re-keyed.

Yes, we're talking about the silver bracket that supports the M/C.
 

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Yes the bracket that holds the MC, Reservoir.
Sure you don't have to get the New Suzuki Part $$$. But Suzuki would like you to destroy the old one. They have come up on Bbay and the seller was prosecuted.... 311 smackers holy F&*@ ! That's AUS $450. My stock MC With Vesrah SRJL XX will do me. ( k7)
I reckon a hand full of lever would put me in a face plant !
 

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"They have come up on Bbay and the seller was prosecuted...."
Can you provide some specifics? I still have my OEM MC and have been fighting with Suzuki about it for years. I realized that the bracket was in the process of being discontinued and managed to buy another before they were completely gone.
 

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K6 gsx-r 1000
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Discussion Starter #66
Ok so I found the 17rcs, and I'm sorry but this is all confusing. Can I ask how it's better then the 19rcs? Also will the k9 calipers mount right up? I was just going to rebuild mine but I didn't know they where that bad. What's area ratio? Lol and I never took the ignition to the locksmith bc after looking at it it looks like the other guy tried to break it and already messed it up pretty good so I figured instead of waisting $75 and still needing another I would just replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #67 (Edited)
Ok so after researching a bit I think I've figured it out, but I'm not gonna $500 for a set of calipers is a grip on top of the mc. Can I just rebuild my calipers and run the 17rcs mc for the time being till I can swing the brembo calipers?

Also I think only the k6 and k8 took the same ignition, seems like none of the other required the resistance. Reason I was asking is none of the Chinese ignitions came with the resister, and I've found used ones in decent shape on ebay but they aren't to much cheaper then a new one. I can get just the oem ignition and key new for 175, used run about 140 and a Chinese set runs like $50 plus the resister.
 

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OP has bigger balls than me, that's for sure. That poor bike!

I hope you bring her back to a condition worthy of the K5-6 1K.

(y)
 

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You can get used K9 calipers for around $75 on ebay. Just be sure that they don't have rash from a crash or are otherwise crap, ex. corroded bores. They just bolt on and use the same pads. Those calipers were also used by Honda but they're slightly different so as to use the Honda pads. Posters on the WERA forum claim that they're better than the Brembo M50. There are posts here about how crappy the K5-K8 calipers are.

The ratio of the total caliper to MC piston areas should be around 27 for best feel. This is just the hydraulic ratio. The overall ratio includes the mechanical ratio at the lever but mechanical ratios are hard to come by and involve the finger position on the lever. I think that you want an overall ratio of around 200. The K5-K8 OEM hydraulic ratio is 22.7 which gives a feel that is too firm. It will be 22.8 with the 19RCS/OEM calipers and 26.8, near ideal, with the 17RCS/K9 calipers. Using the K9 calipers with the K5-K8 MC gives a ratio of 21.3, which is going in the wrong direction. Using the 17RCS with the OEM calipers gives a ratio of 28.5, which is a bit high and will feel slightly soft.

It sounds like someone tried to turn your switch with a screwdriver, presumably as part of a theft attempt. Let me look but I'm surprised that you can't get an OEM switch for under $100.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
That was really informative thank you BillV. I definitely understand. And ya it looks like they tried to pop the lock. But I seen where you can basically hotwire it with the right resister between the solid orange wire and the orange wire with the yellow tracer. And have it ether ran off a toggle switch or run directly to the starter relay with another key on hot wire And just be able to use the killswitch on the handlebar. No key needed untill I can just throw a new one on there. Only thing that will really be altered is the crap ignition I have.


And thank you le skid. She is gonna scream someday :) hopefully sofar I don't see anything I can't figure out and fix on this oll girl. Hopefully the compression test turns out good and I don't have to dig to deep into the engine but I'll figure it out if I have to lol.

On a positive note, after referring to the manual my stater and rectifier both tested good so that's awesome. Pretty sure I got my oll 7.3 sold so parts should be soon to come, I'm planning on doing the valve adjustment first and and getting everything for the starter to do a compression test and fingers crossed she runs. Once I get her running right I'm planning on replacing everything every bearing on the bike. All the breaks, tires chain sprocket plastics and fuel pump if it needs it. Fork seals and whatever else I can lay my hands on lol. Haha I love buying new tools anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Ok so, the k9 calipers, are you talking about the tokico calipers? Bc I se several of them for that price range witch would be awesome but the k9 brembo brand calipers are a grip. Lol but what years would be correct for the Honda calipers? There are a bunch of them for quite a bit cheaper that look way nicer.
 

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"They have come up on Bbay and the seller was prosecuted...."
Can you provide some specifics? I still have my OEM MC and have been fighting with Suzuki about it for years. I realized that the bracket was in the process of being discontinued and managed to buy another before they were completely gone.
Yes, I found, online, a story of someone in the UK that sourced these recalled Suzuki MC's from somewhere in Europe, And had sold a number before he was apprehended and prosecuted . I was searching for recall's for my bike (K7) in 2019. I'll see If I can find it again.
 

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^Perhaps he was getting the take-offs from recalled bikes and selling them. I'd expect Suzuki to claim that they were their property and were being illegally sold. However my MC has never been through the recall process. I still own it and contend that I could legally sell it if I so chose. I'd expect Suzuki to fume about it but they've refused to follow the NHTSA regulations, so screw them.

"What's the difference in l1 and l2."
One year. They switched to those "Suzuki quality" Brembo calipers that were not well received, though the red "BREMBO" lettering does earn you points at Starbucks.

In a quick look, I don't see the Honda monoblock Tokico calipers as being cheaper than the Suzuki's. Their use of different shaped pads is going to be an ongoing hassle. They ought to mount the same way but the mounting posts may have a different height as well as the distance from the axle to the caliper. I assume that their piston diameters are the same but don't know for sure.

Though they don't say so, those Chinese ignition switches (some coming from Canada) look like they ought to have a resistor. They specifically state that they replace the 37100-41G10 lock. You could try asking. I'm used to seeing generic locks from China but these seem to be close reproductions.
 

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^Perhaps he was getting the take-offs from recalled bikes and selling them. I'd expect Suzuki to claim that they were their property and were being illegally sold. However my MC has never been through the recall process. I still own it and contend that I could legally sell it if I so chose. I'd expect Suzuki to fume about it but they've refused to follow the NHTSA regulations, so screw them.

"What's the difference in l1 and l2."
One year. They switched to those "Suzuki quality" Brembo calipers that were not well received, though the red "BREMBO" lettering does earn you points at Starbucks.

In a quick look, I don't see the Honda monoblock Tokico calipers as being cheaper than the Suzuki's. Their use of different shaped pads is going to be an ongoing hassle. They ought to mount the same way but the mounting posts may have a different height as well as the distance from the axle to the caliper. I assume that their piston diameters are the same but don't know for sure.

Though they don't say so, those Chinese ignition switches (some coming from Canada) look like they ought to have a resistor. They specifically state that they replace the 37100-41G10 lock. You could try asking. I'm used to seeing generic locks from China but these seem to be close reproductions.
Named and Shamed.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Okydoky I found the k9 tokico ones, just wanted to make sure they where the correct ones. And ya I didn't think of contacting the the sellers for an ignition. I'll definitely check it out,
 

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What's the difference in l1 and l2.
L1 calipers have a smaller total piston area than L2 calipers.

K9 -L1 calipers are the 2nd smallest calipers by (total piston area) Suzuki has ever put on a GSX-R1000.

K3 - K4 being the smallest calipers of any GSX-R1000 ever built.


Here's all the (calculated myself) GSX-R1000 OEM Total Brake Caliper Piston Area's and Master Cylinder Piston Area's, showing the OEM ratio's from day 1...

It's interesting seeing how much Suzuki has changed the caliper / master cylinder sizes and ratio's over the years.

The K3-K4 calipers were obviously way to small, as they have never gone that small a caliper ever again.


K1-K2 15.8mm MC (6388 / 196) = 32.6:1

K3-K4 13.9mm MC (5692 / 151.7) = 37.5:1

K5-K8 19mm MC (6454 / 283) = 22.8:1

K9-L1 17.4mm MC (6102 / 237) = 25.7:1

L2-L6 17.4mm MC (6432 / 237) = 27.1:1

L7-L9 19mm MC (6432 / 283) = 22.7:1
 

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^I'm getting different numbers. Most aren't that significant except for K3/K4. First, for the caliper area the piston areas are used as the seals are in the body and don't move. But the MC seals move with the piston and the swept area is determined by the bore diameter. Also I use the midpoints of the listed ranges. What I see in the various service manuals is:
K1/K2 diameters: Caliper: 23.95/26.945/26.945 and MC: 15.8915
K1/K2 areas: Caliper: 6364 and MC 198
Hydraulic ratio: 32.1 (too soft)

K3/K4 diameters: Caliper: 30.175/38.12 and MC: 14.0215
K3/K4 areas: Caliper: 7426 and MC 154
Hydraulic ratio: 48.1 (way too soft, is that trailing diameter right?)

K5/K8 diameters: Caliper: 30.175/33.909 and MC: 19.0715
K5/K8 areas: Caliper: 6473 and MC 286
Hydraulic ratio: 22.7 (too firm)

K9/L0 diameters: Caliper: 30.1835/31.9835 and MC: 17.4815
K9/L0 areas: Caliper: 6076 and MC 240
Hydraulic ratio: 25.3 (slightly firm)

My info on the L2 calipers is less precise. In particular I don't have the diameter range like in earlier years. I think the caliper bores are all 32 mm and the MC is the same as K9/L0. That gives areas of 6434 and 240. Hydraulic ratio: 26.8 (essentially ideal)

Smaller area is not a bad thing. There is a clear trend over the years to smaller calipers to reduce weight. You just need a correspondingly small MC. My best info is that the Panigale /Brembo M50 calipers are 30 mm on all pistons for a total area of 5655. MC is 16 mm for an area of 201. Hydraulic ratio: 28.1 (slightly soft)

Note that the K9/L0 calipers with a 17 mm MC (ex. 17RCS) gives a 26.8 ratio.

The K9/Tokico monoblocks have a distinctive look from the backside that is associated with friction welding the plugs that seal the piston bores. This also makes them look slightly strange from the top or underside.



Note that, while this is a useful upgrade, with all the other issues that you're having I'd think that sticking with the OEM brakes for now would be prudent. But suit yourself.
 

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You can get used K9 calipers for around $75 on ebay. Just be sure that they don't have rash from a crash or are otherwise crap, ex. corroded bores. They just bolt on and use the same pads. Those calipers were also used by Honda but they're slightly different so as to use the Honda pads. Posters on the WERA forum claim that they're better than the Brembo M50. There are posts here about how crappy the K5-K8 calipers are.

The ratio of the total caliper to MC piston areas should be around 27 for best feel. This is just the hydraulic ratio. The overall ratio includes the mechanical ratio at the lever but mechanical ratios are hard to come by and involve the finger position on the lever. I think that you want an overall ratio of around 200. The K5-K8 OEM hydraulic ratio is 22.7 which gives a feel that is too firm. It will be 22.8 with the 19RCS/OEM calipers and 26.8, near ideal, with the 17RCS/K9 calipers. Using the K9 calipers with the K5-K8 MC gives a ratio of 21.3, which is going in the wrong direction. Using the 17RCS with the OEM calipers gives a ratio of 28.5, which is a bit high and will feel slightly soft.

It sounds like someone tried to turn your switch with a screwdriver, presumably as part of a theft attempt. Let me look but I'm surprised that you can't get an OEM switch for under $100.
What about the K9-L0 MC too? Would it be an improvement for the K6 1000? Direct bolt up too?
 
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