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I don't know what it's about but the breather cover apparently has been discontinued. Fortunately, they're available on ebay.
 

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This topic would be for another thread. I think it has been beaten to death.

Im glad to see Squidmo is getting it done. Nice job so far. Keep it up!
Thanks, found what I was asking about . Still learning on this forum. (y) (
china cnc adjustable levers? )
 

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K6 gsx-r 1000
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Discussion Starter #43
Yes the it came with the airbox it was just in a box. Not gonna lie the filter is dirty. But looked good on the inside so I'll be replacing it. And thank goodness there isn't any oil in my exhaust. I checked at the end of the stock header there the pipe for the slip-on goes and it's barely got any black soot on it. This is a good sign right. Haha


Did this bike come with an air box ? What did the air filter look like ? Any oil in the exhaust , It should be dry :- black soot is unburnt fuel. Prepare for the worst Hope for the best. Like. 👍
Thank you 2017dave for the words of encouragement. Ive realized it would probably be better to part this oll girl out after adding everything up I need I could go get another bike. Buuuut I also am very familiar with how legendary this bike is, so why not make it mine. I can redo every bearing and and part I can possibly replace and make it badass. Hell I think I'm about to sell my diesel truck just to put parts into this bike haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Got the one out from the radiator mount Woop woop.
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Unfortunately I wasn't so successful with the screw that goes into the top of the frame brace on the right hand side. Damn thing was aluminum with a copper coating. So I drilled it out just shy of the threads and will chase them out with a tap whenever I can figure out what size the threads are.
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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Good job. As I distantly recall, the local dealership had cross threaded one of my screws at the radiator support. I found a M6 tap with a long lead-in and used it to straighten things out.

If "screw that goes into the top" refers to the screw that mounts the side cowling, it's M6x1. IMO aluminum is too weak for that location unless it's a 7000 series. Suzuki supplied a simple plated steel screw. Copper coating sounds like anti-seize. Be careful removing the remaining threads as you're dealing with a hole into the frame rail. Note that a spacer fits inside the rubber cushion on the cowling and is easily lost. I discuss that here but the picture isn't visible any more. AFAIK Suzuki never came up with a part number for the spacer.
 

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I find these days that I spend way too much time under the bench on all fours searching for something I dropped, that rolled into a bottomless pit. So everything loose gets glued into place with adhesive silicon ( of which I have a large tube) 👍
 

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This may be of interest. It's available without a watermark on a NHTSA site somewhere but I didn't bother to search. Note the figure on page 6/13.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
It's the bolt in the bottom pick of 9/13. But it definitely wasn't the stock bolt. It looked like the same cheap Chinese copper coated screws that half alwhat was left off the fairings on. I'll take a picture of one when I get home. But it's the big silver one in this picture just opposite side
573470
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Man oh man...

So here is what I think the screw looks like that I pulled out of it it's made out of aluminum.
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573475


So looking at both of the holes I'm a lil nervous lol. Mine obviously needs to be re tapped. And the other looks like it's already been wallerd out and had some shady looking threads cut into it.
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So I'm thinking I'm just gonna re tap both holes. If they are to messed up I'm thinking about drilling them out and re tapping with the next size up? What do y'all think?

Also is this the bad master cylinder?
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That's the OEM MC. The hose to the reservoir enters from the side.

I don't understand what happened there. Did the screws gall in the hole?

I use three of those screws to attach the rear plastics and taillight to the pillion seat bracket. They work OK but it's a low stress location. That side cowling deserves more. A simple route is a Helicoil but I'm nervous about removing any metal in that area. If there was a way to get inside the rail you could attach a plate with a threaded hole. But I don't think there is. It's possible that something like Loctite Epoxy Metal/Concrete or JB Weld SteelStik could be used to build up the damaged threads. Both claim to be suitable for drilling and tapping, though the Loctite might be stronger. Just be sure to clean the surfaces. Maybe apply the epoxy and then thread in a nylon screw to form the thread contours.

The pic on 9/13 shows the screw in place along with the associated washer and spacer. Possibly all that was done as part of holding the brace in place while the epoxy cured.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
What's gall? I only drilled out the center of the screw but since they are aluminum my easout won't pull what's left. I didn't know about helicoils but I like the idea. I'm very familiar with drilling and re tapping so that's why I figured I could just go the next size up with a tap and use a bigger bolt. But I also have all kinda of stick epoxy and locktite products already so I'll also look into that.
 

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Gall: See thread galling. It's most common with stainless but can occur with aluminum or titanium. Some loctite is usually enough to prevent it.

That screw is part of the mount for the top of the under cowl. There's a rubber cushion with a spacer through it to control the compression, and ultimately the stress on the plastic cowl. A larger screw into the frame is going to mess all that up.

As an aside, Suzuki originally used a stepped screw that ran straight through the cushion. They cheaped out for the frame brace rework, possibly because of pressure to get the brace into distribution, and used an ordinary screw plus a washer and spacer. This avoided having to use a custom screw but meant that there were now three parts, screw+washer+spacer, and it was much easier for owners to lose something.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Yes the threads are definitely galled. On the one I tried to ease out. So should I get m6 helicoils just in case I can't clean the treads up with a tap.

And thank you for all your help man I really do appreciate your input.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Ok do I actually found some of my taps and the m5x1 will thread into my right side pretty easy without catching but it seems both have enough meet I could easily use my m6x1 to re cut both sides. I just need to make sure that's the rite threads.

Any chance yall recall what my stater and rectifier should be reading? I got really close readings between all the leads coming off of the stater in every direction between them and also use the resister function or whatever on my multimeter and got good signal threw all 3 leads going from the 2 positive sides and the 2 negative sides.


Also BillV. I got my fan working and still tried to take it completely apart but stripped the one of the 3 screws holding the casing together. Sorry I couldn't be if more help bro.

On another note I was going to take the ignition to the lock smith the other day and noticed it's already been messed with so I thing I'm just gonna order an oem complete lock set.
 

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The screws that we've been talking about are M6x1. There are some M5x.8 but they're much less common. It occurs to me that if there are enough threads remaining on the holes for the cowl mount to grab a tap, that you might be able to build up the threads with the Loctite epoxy and run the tap through to remove the excess. Repeated applications might give you a fully functional thread.

I think a new OEM lock set is relatively expensive.

The best I can tell you about the stator and R/R is to do the checks in chapter 9 of the service manual.

I see indications that the fan case halves might be spot welded together in addition to the three screws.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Thank you sir. And yes it is expensive. Basically $200 for just the ignition or 350 for the set. I guess I could just get the correct resister and hack the one I already have since I plan on replacing it anyway.

Thank you for clearing up the m6 thread question. I'm guessing the other hole that still has threads was also galled and tapped with a smaller thread because looking at it I believe I have enough metal in both holes to run the m6x1 tap and get good threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
I know have good m6x1 threads in both holes. :) Thank you again. Tap cleared out most of the aluminum and it looks decent in there. Grabs good.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Ok so after a little reading can't I just get a cheap Chinese ignition and just sader the correct resister in-between what would be the stock orange and orange and yellow wires to get one to work.
 

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Man oh man...
That is the old master cylinder, Suzuki will take that off you, if they see it.( It Is Faulty and needs replacing)
BillV makes a good point here :- I'm not 100% sure but it looks like you have the frame recall but not the MC recall. Beware, the bracket that supports the MC reservoir was replaced during the recall and has been removed from the market. It has some value for use with an aftermarket MC (Brembo, etc.) so I suggest that you replace it with a junk strap before letting Suzuki do the recall or it will be forever gone.
So here is what I think the screw looks like that I pulled out of it it's made out of aluminum. View attachment 573474 View attachment 573475

So looking at both of the holes I'm a lil nervous lol. Mine obviously needs to be re tapped. And the other looks like it's already been wallerd out and had some shady looking threads cut into it. View attachment 573476 View attachment 573477
So I'm thinking I'm just gonna re tap both holes. If they are to messed up I'm thinking about drilling them out and re tapping with the next size up? What do y'all think?

Also is this the bad master cylinder? View attachment 573478
 
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