[Stevemyster84]

Sorry to lazy to search. Im going to save this thread until i need it. Whats the best way to adjust the chain? Im new and kind of scared to do it.

 

[ucigaragemilitia]

Easy, its in your manual too.
You need:
-a rear stand (not necessary but helps) or something to prop up the rear wheel
-2 wrenches (its either 8mm and 10mm or 10mm and 12mm)
-torque wrech and a big ass socket (dont know the size)
-pliers to remove cotter pin

1) Remove cotter pin and loosen axel nut.
2) Loosen lock nuts (larger of the two wrenches) on either side of swing arm.
3) Adjust chain adjuster screws (the smaller wrench) on the either side of the swing arm.
4) Check and make sure the blocks are lined up evenly on each side of the swing arm using the tick marks on swing arm.
5) Tighten the lock nut down while holding the adjuster screw with the other wrench (yes you have to use both wrenches at the same time)
6) Torque down axel bolt (in your manual) and repace cotter pin.

NOTE: You have to leave a little EXTRA slack in your chain before you tighten down the axel nut because tightening the axel nut causes the axel to move back slightly. So basically if your chain is in spec before you tighten the axel nut it will be TOO TIGHT after you torque the nut down, so leave some extra slack.

If I missed anything im sure someone will point it out.
Ride safe.

 

[Hexum311]

No need to fear the chain. When you do it once it will be no big deal after that. Just follow the manual.

I don't agree that you have to have a rear stand to do it though. The manual even says to put it on the side stand.

I believe that the rear nut is a 40mm in metric or a 1 1/2. I couldn't find either in a 3/8 socket for my torque wrench at sears, lowes, or home depot, so I just cranked down on it with a big ass cresent wrench for now until I can find the right socket. It was either that or not ride and we all know the answer to that!

Also it is best to measure the distance from the nut on each side to get the wheel straight instead of relying on the hash marks on the swing arm. Most people say that the hash marks are way off. But I just adjusted mine, measured both sides the same and wouldn't you know the hash marks were spot on.

 

[cobra kai]

Rear axle nut is 36mm and should be torqued to 72.5 lbs. of torque. I literally just walked in from the garage after adjusting my chain. I was actually installing the gilles chain adjuster which is awesome- it makes adjusting the chain 10000x easier.

 

[DrBaker]

Fixed it for ya.....

Easy, its in your manual too.
You need:
-a rear stand or something to prop up the rear wheel
-2 wrenches (its either 8mm and 10mm or 10mm and 12mm)
-torque wrech and a big ass socket (dont know the size)
-pliers to remove cotter pin
-12 pack of beer

1) Remove cotter pin and loosen axel nut. Have a beer.
2) Loosen lock nuts (larger of the two wrenches) on either side of swing arm. Have a beer.
3) Adjust chain adjuster screws (the smaller wrench) on the either side of the swing arm. Have a beer.
4) Check and make sure the blocks are lined up evenly on each side of the swing arm using the tick marks on swing arm. Have a beer.
5) Tighten the lock nut down while holding the adjuster screw with the other wrench (yes you have to use both wrenches at the same time) Have a beer.
6) Torque down axel bolt (in your manual) and repace cotter pin. Have 2 beers as you wonder why you have absolutely no slack left in the chain now.

NOTE: You have to leave a little EXTRA slack in your chain before you tighten down the axel nut because tightening the axel nut causes the axel to move back slightly. So basically if your chain is in spec before you tighten the axel nut it will be TOO TIGHT after you torque the nut down, so leave some extra slack.

If I missed anything im sure someone will point it out.
Ride safe.

 

[TheCunningMan]

Easy, its in your manual too.
You need:
-a rear stand or something to prop up the rear wheel
-2 wrenches (its either 8mm and 10mm or 10mm and 12mm)
-torque wrech and a big ass socket (dont know the size)
-pliers to remove cotter pin

1) Remove cotter pin and loosen axel nut.
2) Loosen lock nuts (larger of the two wrenches) on either side of swing arm.
3) Adjust chain adjuster screws (the smaller wrench) on the either side of the swing arm.
4) Check and make sure the blocks are lined up evenly on each side of the swing arm using the tick marks on swing arm.
5) Tighten the lock nut down while holding the adjuster screw with the other wrench (yes you have to use both wrenches at the same time)
6) Torque down axel bolt (in your manual) and repace cotter pin.

NOTE: You have to leave a little EXTRA slack in your chain before you tighten down the axel nut because tightening the axel nut causes the axel to move back slightly. So basically if your chain is in spec before you tighten the axel nut it will be TOO TIGHT after you torque the nut down, so leave some extra slack.

If I missed anything im sure someone will point it out.
Ride safe.

Exactly and PLEASE remember a too tight chain is far more dangerous than one that's too loose.

 

[ucigaragemilitia]

DrBaker: trust me the beers were there...I just wasnt sure how old the guy was haha. But thanks for correcting my mistake. :cheers

 

[fivespd]

my chain was way too loose after only 1900 miles even though i keep it lubed real well. ucigaragmilitia tightened it up for me the other day but it took a couple tries to leave the right amount of slack. go to cyclegear in laguna hills, take a coupon off their front counter and buy a rear stand for 50 bucks. they're on sale right now. only reason why i didn't buy one yet is because i plan to keep whoring ucigaragmilitia's for free.

 

[skeelo]

Rear axle nut is 36mm and should be torqued to 72.5 lbs. of torque. I literally just walked in from the garage after adjusting my chain. I was actually installing the gilles chain adjuster which is awesome- it makes adjusting the chain 10000x easier.

10000X easier? Don't you still have to lossen the axle nut then turn an adjusting bolt to put proper tension on the chain?

Sorry if this is a little off topic......

 

[cobra kai]

10000X easier? Don't you still have to lossen the axle nut then turn an adjusting bolt to put proper tension on the chain?

Sorry if this is a little off topic......

Well, 10000x is a bit of an exaggeration You loosen the axle nut then turn 2 adjusters until they are equal on both sides and then tighten the axle nut again. It takes about 1 minute to do and the chain doesn't move. The axle is also perfectly aligned.

 

[ZaXoS]

FYI the wrench for the main nut is in your tool kit......you may have to use an extension bar or something.

 

[BARTON]

Little trick i learned for ensuring wheel is fully forward against the adjuster nuts.
After you have set the correct amount of chain slack.
Place a 3/8 sq drive socket extension bar on top of the lower chain run, turn your rear wheel anti clockwise untill extension is tight between chain and teeth on sprocket this wil pull the wheel forward tight against chain adjuster nuts.Hold the tension on the wheel and tighten axle nut with other hand. You tension will be as you set it.( Ive seen Rossi's mechanics do the same.)

 

[Catatafish]

Nice tip.:cheers

 

[Hamos]

Little trick i learned for ensuring wheel is fully forward against the adjuster nuts.
After you have set the correct amount of chain slack.
Place a 3/8 sq drive socket extension bar on top of the lower chain run, turn your rear wheel anti clockwise untill extension is tight between chain and teeth on sprocket this wil pull the wheel forward tight against chain adjuster nuts.Hold the tension on the wheel and tighten axle nut with other hand. You tension will be as you set it.( Ive seen Rossi's mechanics do the same.)

I agree. I use this method and it works a treat. It beats kicking merry hell out of the back wheel and running the risk of knocking it of the stand.