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No turn signals/hazards/indicators on cluster

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Hello guys/girls. I've recently bought a neglected 2007 1000. Everything works and runs fine except no turn signals/hazards, or indicator on cluster. Bulbs ok, replaced turn signal switch-ok, fuse ok, replaced relay-ok. Headlight and taillight/brake light work. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I purchased across state lines so I need signals for inspection.
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If the headlights and cluster otherwise works, it's not a ground problem. Do the horn and the position light work? One place to check is the big connector between the main and front harnesses. It's inside the left front cowling with a shroud covering it. Look for corroded contacts on the Lg and B leads. If they're OK, look at the yellow(?) connector for the left handlebar switch. A Lbl lead from the flasher provides power to the connector & switch.
If the headlights and cluster otherwise works, it's not a ground problem. Do the horn and the position light work? One place to check is the big connector between the main and front harnesses. It's inside the left front cowling with a shroud covering it. Look for corroded contacts on the Lg and B leads. If they're OK, look at the yellow(?) connector for the left handlebar switch. A Lbl lead from the flasher provides power to the connector & switch.
Thank you for responding. This is driving me nuts. I'm actually a car mechanic too, so it's slightly embarrassing. Horn and position working properly. I did find that jiggling the connection closest to the cluster causes it to "spaz" out. And jiggling the whole fuse assembly causes bike to totally shut off. Definitely some shorts. And did you mean corrosion like this....
Hand Circuit component Passive circuit component Hardware programmer Finger
Hand Circuit component Passive circuit component Hardware programmer Finger
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^Ha ha. Something tells me that you've found the problem. I suggest that you consider replacing every contact, i.e. you can clean up the corrosion and get them to work now but the protective plating is gone and they'll just fail again. If you're careful you can remove the contacts without damaging the wires. Use a small file on the contact's crimp until it's weak enough to bend by hand. That will take some time but won't result in a shortened harness. This was a bad design that was finally fixed in K9 with a sealed connector. Applying dielectric grease to the terminals will add some protection. Corsa Technic, among others, have the contacts. My K6 uses the same connector & shroud as yours. I'd hoped to change them to the K9 type but they use a different contact so it's not a matter of swapping the shells and adding seals.

"jiggling the whole fuse assembly causes bike to totally shut off"
You may have some similar problems there, though that's much less common. If you remove the cowling you can examine the fuse contacts more closely. I think you can slide the fuse box off of its bracket and pull it out to where you can see what the backside looks like. But fix the connector first. That may solve everything.
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Well...I'm back. Finally fixed the signal problem. I put in a new fuse box and cleaned up connector pins. Got the fuse box from an old SVT1000? wiring harness. $25 off Ebay.
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Why was the fuse box dinged up? You mentioned neglected up front. That looks like the work of a hammer mechanic. The damaged area looks like where the interlock & turn signal relay attaches.

FYI. It's really irrelevant here but they changed the way that the fuse block's mounting bracket is attached to the frame. In prior years plastic clips were used. But screws were used in K7, apparently because of the hydraulic line to the clutch.
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