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Discussion Starter #1
2008 GSXR 750 - Bike in neutral (tach says), kill switch in the correct position (tried another kill switch too) - Also, when the switch is off, the bike will not attempt to start. When I switch it to on, it does, but there's no priming or throttle body movement as usual.

When I turn the key, the speedometer goes all the way up, then down like normal. However, there’s no fuel pump priming or throttle body checks as usual. Yesterday, it was fine.

The ground wire was BROKE, so I went and got a new connector and crimped them all together. That’s the only thing that has changed. Yesterday I had to hold the ground to the block. Now it’s on there and I sanded the bolts as well as the connector and block. The connection should be very much solid.

Weird thing is.... The bike cranks! Just doesn’t start yet (when trying to start). Charging the battery now, and will try multi-meter when I can. Any ideas? Someone mentioned tip sensor, and I tried unplugging it and moving it around. Also took the bike off the stand and messed with it a bit.

1. All lights work.
2. There's a "CHEC" but no codes are popping up.
3. Bike tries to crank when I try to start it, but no fuel priming or throttle body movement.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Found this video:


I'm having the exact same symptoms. So I may try to swap the ECU and see what happens!
 

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Your ECU is probably not getting powered, likely due to a wiring problem. Search the forum for keywords like "CHEC, ignition, interlock, wiring, diagram" for more discussion on troubleshooting than you'd want.
 

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After the switch but before the stva and fuel pump correct me if I’m wrong I beleive there’s relays, a bad or weak ground on any electrical component could cause something like a relay not to mention I did not see u post a fuse check to blow.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
After the switch but before the stva and fuel pump correct me if I’m wrong I beleive there’s relays, a bad or weak ground on any electrical component could cause something like a relay not to mention I did not see u post a fuse check to blow.
Fuses are all good in the fuse box. Should I buy another ECU and test that, or just order a new ground wire and stuff? The new ground seems to be pretty solid... As the bike will crank, but not start. No STVA movement, or fuel pump prime though.
 

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I’d say that ground is not your issue, did u try testing the relays ? U can test them with a multi meter but it be easier to go to ur box and switch one with another, and if that don’t work re check all the wireing
 

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Check the voltage at the O/W lead on the dealer mode connector and the R lead on the nearby SAP connector. With ignition and kill switches on, they should be 12 V and 5 V.
 

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1. All lights work.
2. There's a "CHEC" but no codes are popping up.
3. Bike tries to crank when I try to start it, but no fuel priming or throttle body movement.
Pretty sure CHEC is always displayed when power is on but killswitch in in the "kill" position. You need to put it into dealer mode to express any codes I think...Not saying I know what the problem is but if you throw it in dealer mode it may throw back a code ?
 

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If your fuel pump is not priming and it's trying to start, it's an ECU issue.
 

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Wow.... just wow. Why is everyone jumping to step ten and skipping steps 2-9? Have you put a meter on the supply wire for the fuel pump to see if it's getting voltage? Have you put a meter on the hot side of the fuel pump relay to see if it's getting power?
 

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Wow.... just wow. Why is everyone jumping to step ten and skipping steps 2-9? Have you put a meter on the supply wire for the fuel pump to see if it's getting voltage? Have you put a meter on the hot side of the fuel pump relay to see if it's getting power?
Because the throttle bodies would still move. Also, the usual safety measures of pulling in the clutch no longer work. If three things stop functioning at once and you have a spare ECU, that's way easier than testing the throttle body motor and pump individually. Now, if you have none available, then test each component.
 

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Since there's CHEC on the dash it's more than likely that the ECU is not getting power (or has failed altogether). Unless that is determined not to be the case (as it usually is) I don't see the point in investigating why the pump or secondaries aren't operated. They shouldn't be expected to operate. I'll just add to Bill's advice that, should there not be an O/W wire in the dealer mode connector (as is likely given the cranks-during-CHEC condition), measure the O/G wire instead.
 

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^O/G is for an immobilizer equipped bike. O/W for non-immobilizer/US. He sounded US but maybe I'm wrong.
 

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I thought I'd mention it since it's one way for the ECU to be offline while the motor can still be cranked.
 
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