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You will detrimentally alter the handle characteristics of the bike by lowering it...​
 

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The bike in the link you gave is air bagged, obviously. I don't think you will have much success riding anything that low without doing possible damage bottoming out.
If you must lower the bike get the above mentioned lowering links/dog bones and you can lower the bike 1-3 inches in the rear. Going 3 inches lower in the rear you need to shorten the kickstand or you will risk a tip over with the wind or just having the bike get "bumped".
Lower the front by loosening the tripple trees and clip on's and sliding the forks upward(front of the bike must be on a stand or jack to do this).
I hope the info is helpfull
 

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Lowering links, or maybe even hard struts like you said. But those bikes are made to go down a flat, relatively smooth drag strip, and not turn really.

For a street bike, you will drag shit all over the place. And the bike will handle like a dump truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What I want to do is make like a pro street version, not sure what year gsx-r bike would be easiest to use.
 

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dont go too low. I did and nothing good came from it. I can tell you that your bike will handle like crap, (my 200 shinko doesn't help) it's gonna feel like its pushing through every corner, but if your just lowering for looks your probably not worried about dragging knee anyway.

*edit- here's the thread i made about having a bike too low...http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249064 oh and trust me, you keep talking about lowering your bike on here, your gonna need a flame suit.. hopefully i can take mine off. that was some bs last week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
dont go too low. I did and nothing good came from it. I can tell you that your bike will handle like crap, (my 200 shinko doesn't help) it's gonna feel like its pushing through every corner, but if your just lowering for looks your probably not worried about dragging knee anyway.

*edit- here's the thread i made about having a bike too low...http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249064 oh and trust me, you keep talking about lowering your bike on here, your gonna need a flame suit.. hopefully i can take mine off. that was some bs last week.

Well I'm a drag racer and flat track racer from many years back. that would be the old school frames, so I thought maybe I would get back in to maybe building a pro street drag bike with a newer style bike. So I came on here to see just how the frames and susspensions are set up. Here to learn and ask before I build it. But if I get a bunch of little snot nose bratts answers like you got on your post I will move over to dragbike.com

They make it easy for a young kid with no ability to build or ride a sport bike now days. And these bikes are used for building Dragbikes and GP, stunt, etc... So yeah you will get the jerks saying why change the factory bike. Those are just the young snot noses that no nothing about fabrication.

Your correct in your post, done correctly..... fabricating rear end and swingarm does slam the bike to the ground for drags. We are talking a weekend pro street bike for street light to street light fun and to just show your workmanship, not a cornering bike, not gp, etc.....

I would not take it so hard what a few said on your post, mostly the ones who laughed at wiring cut off. bunch of kids........... LEARN from the pro's on here..... not the snot nose guys with a bike and new payment booklet.

I guess I'll look at a frame in a salvage place with fairing off so I can see how they are to check what year to use, someone said lowering straps, but where are they located on frame. I need to see a year to work with. I like the stock tank on the 89 though, but still like some things I see on the 98 bike to work with.....

Thank you for showing me your post thread.......
 

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the front of my bike lowered by sliding the fork tubes up an inch, then at the track i'll strap it the rest of the way down. i bolted my strap to the one brake caliper looped over the top of the frame, then bolted to the other caliper. then you just push down real hard and pull it tight. definatly dont ride around like that as you will literally have no suspension travel and blow out fork seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
the front of my bike lowered by sliding the fork tubes up an inch, then at the track i'll strap it the rest of the way down. i bolted my strap to the one brake caliper looped over the top of the frame, then bolted to the other caliper. then you just push down real hard and pull it tight. definatly dont ride around like that as you will literally have no suspension travel and blow out fork seals.

Ok, instead of straping it, I was going to have tubes cut down, rethreaded and heavy springs cut for front. sound ok?????
 

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then dont strap it, you can slide the fork tubes up a good 3 inches. i just didnt because my upper fairing bracket is bent and would hit the tubes when i turn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
then dont strap it, you can slide the fork tubes up a good 3 inches. i just didnt because my upper fairing bracket is bent and would hit the tubes when i turn.
If I cut tubes down.... should not need to slide them up ???? sent you PM.
 

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cut your tubes and have springs made and you wont have to slide them up in the trees. if you want to keep the tail low, dont use a 2000 or newer bike. the seats are alot higher than the 80s and 90s models. alot of people down here (florida) use early 90s model gsxr 1100s for a start. using a strut for the rear is a great idea for the track. there would be no play in the suspension. your bike would grab better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
cut your tubes and have springs made and you wont have to slide them up in the trees. if you want to keep the tail low, dont use a 2000 or newer bike. the seats are alot higher than the 80s and 90s models. alot of people down here (florida) use early 90s model gsxr 1100s for a start. using a strut for the rear is a great idea for the track. there would be no play in the suspension. your bike would grab better.
Nice... Thank you for info.
 
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