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New to me SRAD 750

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I just purchased another SRAD 750, a 1998 model. I already have a 1996 SRAD 750. I paid next to nothing for this 98 and it’s a project bike. It doesn’t run and hasn’t run for at least a couple of years. The fuel pump is toast and all three brake calipers are seized. The engine turns over and the starter seems strong as far as I can tell. And the wiring is messy, as expected. At this point, the bike needs at a minimum a new fuel pump, new fuel pump gasket, likely need to clean injectors, all three brake calipers rebuilt and new pads, likely both master cylinders rebuilt as well, a new battery, new turn signals, valve clearances checked and adjusted, and new coolant, oil and filter. Chain and rear sprocket are OK, forks don’t leak, front tire is new (2 years old) but rear tire will need replacing soon. I’m sure there will more issues as I dive into the bike and (hopefully) get it running.
Unfortunately, the guy I bought it from removed all the fairings, dismantled the fuel pump, removed the calipers, and then gave up. He gave me a tub full of fasteners and miscellaneous parts all random and disorganized. Yikes!

Here’s a couple of pics of the bike before he stripped it down. The fairings have a few scratches but no damage, surprisingly. And the exhaust and rims are undamaged and look really good. At worse, if the bike has a major flaw and I have to part it out, the exhaust and rims are worth at least as much as paid for the bike.

I’ll provide an update when I receive the parts I’ve ordered and have some time to wrench on the bike. Wish me luck.

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nice.. should be a good bike once you're finished, the FI bikes are way better than carb, unleaded E gas does not mess with it as bad.. still gotta watch that tank if it sits too long tho
nice.. should be a good bike once you're finished, the FI bikes are way better than carb, unleaded E gas does not mess with it as bad.. still gotta watch that tank if it sits too long tho
Thanks. Regarding the tank, with the fuel pump removed, I can have a good look inside. There is some rust in the tank. What do people use to dissolve/remove that rust?
Take it to a radiator shop. They will flush it and seal it.

The paint will be completely stripped though.
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If it’s not too bad you can try the white vinegar option. Twisters options the best but if not bad there’s itcher over the counter option too.
The rust is minor. I'll try vinegar and see what that does for me. Thanks
yo can use vinegar, overnight or longer, then evaporust works well, will strip it to the bare metal
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On evaporust, I think it tends to not flash rust as fast as other things do. Whatever you do, be sure to rinse completely and immediately slosh around something to recoat the tank away from bare metal. Such as oil/diesel/gas.

I had some interesting nightmares on a tank I did vinegar for too long with. Was more aggressive than I expected (also etched a lot) and ended up having to line the tank.

You're gona need to get a new gasket for the pump seating also. Use a torque wrench you can trust and fallow the torque pattern, otherwise you'll be opening up a whole 'nother can of worms.
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On evaporust, I think it tends to not flash rust as fast as other things do. Whatever you do, be sure to rinse completely and immediately slosh around something to recoat the tank away from bare metal. Such as oil/diesel/gas.

I had some interesting nightmares on a tank I did vinegar for too long with. Was more aggressive than I expected (also etched a lot) and ended up having to line the tank.

You're gona need to get a new gasket for the pump seating also. Use a torque wrench you can trust and fallow the torque pattern, otherwise you'll be opening up a whole 'nother can of worms.
Thanks. Do I really need to use evaporust or some equivalent product? What if I just add vinegar to the tank, add a few nuts and bolts, slosh it around thoroughly let it sit for a couple of hours, then drain and flush with gas 3-4 times? Would that not be sufficient? To be honest, there not much rust in there. I'm not sure I need to do anything. Thoughts? And yes, I've ordered a new gasket.
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Thanks. Do I really need to use evaporust or some equivalent product? What if I just add vinegar to the tank, add a few nuts and bolts, slosh it around thoroughly let it sit for a couple of hours, then drain and flush with gas 3-4 times? Would that not be sufficient? To be honest, there not much rust in there. I'm not sure I need to do anything. Thoughts? And yes, I've ordered a new gasket.
Yep, tha'd prolly be sufficient. Manny ways to skin it.
rinse your evaporust out with distilled water, the distilled water out with alcohol, several times, get er on the bike full of gas asap, surface rust is always tricky
ride on! the bike appears promising. keep us updated with your progress.
ride on! the bike appears promising. keep us updated with your progress.
Thanks. I was surprised at how good the bike looks considering its age and the fact that I only paid $500 for it. Hoping to receive my fuel pump rebuild kit by the end of the week so that I can install it and see if the bike will run.
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Update as of April 12th. I received a few parts but still waiting on delivery of others. Some progress and a few problems and surprises along the way.

I received the fuel pump rebuild kit I ordered. I installed the new pump and tested it and it works. The fuel strainer that came with the kit is unusable because it is too bid and won't fit in the fuel pump assembly housing - so I had to re-use old strainer. After reassembling the fuel pump, I installed it in the fuel tank with the old gasket because the new gasket I ordered has not arrived yet. I used gas resistant gasket maker on the gasket to try to seal it. It didn't work - fuel leaked within a few hours. I'll just have to wait until the new gasket is delivered. Also, when installing the fuel pump on the tank, I realized that one of the 8 threaded holes on the tank was stripped. I tried running a tap to clean up the threads but it didn't work. Looking through my bucket full of spare bolts and screws, I happen to find a cap screw the next size up. Using the next size tap, I carefully tapped new threads in the tank for this bigger cap screw - all good now. Just waiting for the new gasket to reinstall fuel pump and reinstall tank on the bike.

I am still waiting for the caliper rebuild kits to arrive as well. In the mean time, I started disassembling the front calipers. Anticipating that some of the caliper mounting bolts would be seized and difficult to remove, I soaked them in liquid penetrant overnight. The next morning, I started removing the caliper mounting bolts. Sure enough, one of them on each front caliper was seized in place and would not move. Tried cold, heat (propane torch), hitting with hammer, no luck. I drilled the bolt head and tried 2 bolt extractors I had at home - both slipped and could not extract the bolts. The last extractor I tried, the rectangular fluted type like the picture below, worked and I was able to remove these two remaining bolts. Now able to split the calipers in half, I removed the pistons and seals and started cleaning the old brake fluid and corrosion. The calipers were very dirty; they've likely never been serviced. After several hours of cleaning with several small brushes and some fine emery, I got the calipers looking really good. And I found some grade 12.9 socket head bolts of the same thread and length at my local auto parts store, so I don't need to replace the two bolts that I wrecked with Suzuki OEM bolts that are very expensive. Now I just need the caliper rebuild kits and new pads to arrive and I can put these front brakes back together.

Slow progress, but progress nonetheless.

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i've got a FI 750 srad I need to do the same to, runs like a top, chassis and swinger is trashed, wanna powder coat them, go over the bike, need to move the 600 to have room tho, craigs wants a credit card to post for sale ads anymore, $5 which isn't an issue but I don't want them having any of that data so they can sell it to whoever so i have no way of listing it really, it really needs to be ridden more than I do, gas is just wretched anymore for sitting carbys, starting a lil funky cuz of... fast idle stopped working? I better burn that gas out and fill with fresh e free.. hale those 5 cans I bought i only used 2 of em Ibet they are ripe about now, burn it in my car... hehe, she burns anything... the beauty of FI, if a pump can push it to an injector and an injector can let it thru generally it burns.. carbs are so darn sensitive to the slightest build up or corrosion, ride it every day it wont build up, really like to see it go to someone who needs a good commuter, its jetted smaller for a lil better MPG and does well if not hammered on, on 3 gallons I can go 135 miles with her.. not bad really and it does have that hit up top still...
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Update as of May 21. I finally received my OEM fuel pump gasket, installed it and it sealed well. Caliper rebuild kits and pads arrived for front brakes, installed, bled, working good now. Still a little more spongy that I like, will rebleed again. Installed new LED flashers to replace the ones on the bike that were crap. Cleaned up some paint scuffs and holes in the fairings as well. Installed the gas tank, said a prayer and attempted to start the bike. It did not start. Sprayed starting fluid in the airbox and got a couple of pops when I was trying to start it, but it still wouldn't go. I then opened up the throttle as I was starting it and it fired right up! It wouldn't stay running unless I kept opening the throttle. Once it got hot, it ran better. I adjusted the idle speed (was much too low) and now the bike starts up fine just with the fast idle lever, don't have to manually open the throttle. I let the bike warm up to over 100 C, could not detect any fluid leaks and the fan came on once I hit over 100 C. I adjusted the clutch free play as well.

At this time, there are two problems that I know of. The first problem is battery is not getting charged when the bike is running - only have 12.8 V at battery when running. I tested the R/R and it failed. Will have to replace it. The stator is pumping out 55-60 Volts AC at 5000 rpm, which is lower then it should be but hopefully good enough. Other problem is the neutral light is not coming on and the bike will not run in neutral unless the kick stand is up. I'll start new posts for advice on these two issues.
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is the stator putting out? go mosfet RR if at all possible, the direct to battery mod with an inline breaker or fuse is a good choice as well when going direct to battery mod
Stator is putting out 55-60W at 5000 rpm. Should be at least 70W at 5000rpm for this 1998 750, as per the service manual. So not up to spec, but I'm hoping it is good enough. I haven't pulled the stator. Maybe if I pull it out and clean it it might put out more power? Thoughts?
Stator is putting out 55-60W at 5000 rpm. Should be at least 70W at 5000rpm for this 1998 750, as per the service manual. So not up to spec, but I'm hoping it is good enough. I haven't pulled the stator. Maybe if I pull it out and clean it it might put out more power? Thoughts?
If the bike is a keeper, just bite the bullet and get a new stator and the mosfet rr. Consider it an protection to your asset. When the stator goes, the oem rr frys fast (or vise versa) and your inevitably left with a burnt connector at best, or a cooked and brittle harness at worst. Might as well avoid the headache from the get go.
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