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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone

My Bike has been having some Power problems whereby the Bike cuts off due to the Battery not having sufficient Power.

I have since bought a Brand New Battery and also bought Genuine Rectifier and a Genuine Stator.

The problem is still there however and the Stator reading shows 21 vAC during idle and 54 vAC at around 5000 rpm, the specs state that it's suppose to give a min of 65 vAC at 5000 rpm which is not the case however.


I did at first buy a cheap Stator off ebay which gave a reading of 59 vAC and was then advised to get an OEM one at a cost of £200 which for some reason gives a lower reading than the cheap ebay one !

Which other Part if not the Stator can affect this reading to be so low ?

Thanks for all your advise :)
 

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Hand-Eye Coordinator
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I agree with Geek to an extent.

Test your house power through an outlet to make sure that your meter is accurate.

My question is, though; did you replace all of the parts at the same time? If you replaced them one by one, then a broken part could have pooched a good part.

If they all were replaced at the same time, those voltage numbers look peculiar to me. Are you sure that your meter was set to AC? I'm not meaning to insult you, but those voltage numbers look like you may have had your meter set wrong. Once frequency is accounted for (ex. 5000 rpm makes the meter see 83 hertz) once the voltages are roughly converted from DC to AC, your stator looks like it might be in spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all your replies Guys.

1. Well I changed the Battery first then the Bike was still loosing Power

2. Then replaced the Rectifier and Stator with aftermarket Parts from eBay but the problem was still there

3. Bought another Battery now which was more expensive but no luck

4. Took the Bike to a Garage and paid for a proper inspection and was then told I needed a better quality Rectifier, bought a OEM one with no luck

5. Tested my Stator output which was 59v so bought a OEM Stator from fowlers but the problem is still there and the new Stator reads 55v

The OEM Stator is actually showing a reading of 55v at 5000rpm whereas the cheap eBay Stator showed a reading of at least 59v so I am now thinking of returning my OEM one and sticking the cheap one back in.

Behind the Stator did I notice that my Flywheel was sort of Brown which may be a sign of it being burned and therefore having maybe weakened a Magnet behind it (if there is one) ?

So my plan may now be to return the OEM Stator to get some Money back that I will use to buy a Flywheel Rotor which I believe may be the problem but not 100% sure :).

I posted a pic of my Multi meter and used the second setting to the right to test the Stators which is the V~(200V) setting, I have also uploaded a Pic of my Flywheel which will give you guys an idea of what might be the cause of my low Stator output.

I did try the Stator resistance on my Stator but wasn't too sure which setting it is on my Multi meter, I thought it might be the Horseshoe 200k one but that didn't work for me unfortunately.

Thank you everyone for all your help and kind advice and hopefully will I be able to get my Bike ready for this years Summer :D
 

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Dreaming of buttsecks for years...
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I highly doubt it could have gotten hot enough to hurt the magnets. Which are around the outer surface. When you put the new stator in, does it pretty much yank the assembly out of your hand?
 

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Dreaming of buttsecks for years...
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When you put the stator and cover back on, the magnetic force is pretty powerful. People have had fingers smashed....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh yes lol...i put the stator into the flywheel first to see if there is any magnetic force and it pullet it straight off my Hands and stuck into the flywheel like glue.
 

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shouldn't be the magnets then. I've honestly never heard of a bad rotor. possible I'm sure, but probably extremely rare
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok thanks

but what else can then cause two brand new stators to show a reading of under 60v ?

I thought this may be something common with a simple answer but guess it's an odd scenario.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I would also like to mention that the first Stator that I removed from the Bike was loose inside it and I had to therefore replace the Stator Cover as well and this may have damaged the Flywheel or Magneto ? but not too sure. I have just ordered a new Flywheel Rotor Magnet anyway now and hope this will sort the problem out.
 

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ok thanks

but what else can then cause two brand new stators to show a reading of under 60v ?

I thought this may be something common with a simple answer but guess it's an odd scenario.
You know, I think it just might be the rotor. I'll be damned. You are right- it's an odd scenario.

So, long and short- your current rotor looks like it has insulating varnish all over it. Yes, varnish, just like for wood working.

Quality electrical windings have varnish on them for two reasons: First, is to keep electrical "noise" from interfering with a wind. Second, is to keep the wind stable. Imagine spinning something at thousands of rpm (like in an electrical motor. A stator doesn't move- it stays stationary) and expecting strands of copper to stay put. That being said, it is the WIND that has varnish, NOT a magnet. The varnish is what burns and turns parts of the stator black. You know, now that I think of it, I bet that the old stator in your bike wasn't OEM where the varnish melted instead of burned.

Essentially, what you have there is insulated magnets- resulting in low voltage.

Removing the rotor and try putting paint stripper on some steel wool and taking out the varnish.

FWIW, don't use the cheap parts. Use the OEM... just because you get better performance with a cheap part in a broken system, that doesn't mean that the cheap part is better...
 

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Here is your "R"
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Any updates on this? Im having the same issue, replaced the stator with new oem, and getting zero voltage out of the stator while running. Im thinking I have a fly wheel issue aswell.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Any updates on this? Im having the same issue, replaced the stator with new oem, and getting zero voltage out of the stator while running. Im thinking I have a fly wheel issue aswell.
Yes well done on finding this old thread of mine.

I decided to buy an oem stator and rectifier but still without any luck so then changed the flywheel which sorted my problem out for me.

You can sometimes find brand new parts cheaper on the ebay website which might be worth having a look at.

Best of luck my friend and remember to ride safe 😉
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Did you need to use any special pullers to remove the old flywheel?

Thanks for the update!
Yea I done everyrthing but then put the bike in my van and to my local motorbike garage who had the puller to remove it and then put the other one on. He nevee asked for any money but I paid him a tenner out of good will.

Best of luck.
 

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Hello I'm new to this and this is my first bike 2007 gsxr 600 and I'm having a similar problem when I bought bike the guy slapped a new battery in n it worked fine got home n the bike would start up anymore did some research and says replace stator and rectifier was working good for acouple days so I went and bought new stator and rectifier AGAIN had the same problem so i then replaced the battery with a new one and now I'm stuck in same situation. Anyone have any idea why and what i should do next please help.
 

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Here is your "R"
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Just yesterday I replaced the flywheel after the original stator blew a chunk off the inside. Shes running great after I did the flywheel.



But before you go slapping parts on, use a volt meter and measure the battery terminals. Measure the bike running, then measure right at the stator wire you should have about 65-75 volts in all the terminals.
 
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