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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone installed one of these? I like it. I just put it in, but am in the middle of rainy weather and don't want to get my bike all filthy. It's a Muzzy's aluminum fan blade. It fit in perfectly. Only was $35. Should draw more air through better than those crappy plastic fans we all have stock. Just thought I'd share the pic and see if you guys are into it.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeah.. it sounded like a really good choice to me as it's always good to help these bikes any way you can. I thought of the cooling system and stumbled upon this and thought it was too easy and too good of a thing to pass up for the price.
Here's a url for the fan and model number for the SRAD blade.
http://www.muzzys.com/fans.cfm
part number: HT-H2
 

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Yah, these bikes run too damn hot.
My fan doesn't even spin until my gauge reads 226*f. I just got my first Suzuki (this '96), and am in disbelief that they regularly reach over boiling point at lights & in traffic!
I am curious as to what difference you realize after the blade swap. PLEASE ADVISE! Also, how does the blade secure to the motor? Here's an idea for you that you may want to use while you have the fan out. I mounted a toggle just behind the allen screw on the top of the right side fairings.. just to the right of the right side ram-air plenum, and I intend on hard wiring it to the fan for cooling on demand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
not a bad idea really. There's no reason why you can't. A friend of mine used to do that on his fully built Honda's that he used to race. Cars that is... I haven't done this yet, but I'm going to look into a new thermostat that will open a little earlier and then look into whether or not you can mount two fans since I have an extra fan assembly from a 98'. Just that I'd have to rig mounting points on the left side of the radiator as there's only bolt holes for mounting on the right. Imagine pulling more than twice the air through that sucker! I will hesitate on that though. I'll see how this fan blade does and then eventually run with lower temp thermostat. If the thermostat opens at like 180 degrees.. then I'll just leave it and maybe just replace it with a new one anyhow. Another good thing is to flush out that coolant once in awhile. That way you can be sure you have good fluid running through the channels and water jackets. I'd let that stuff run through, and flow through the radiator and then empty it all out again, and then refill up after that. Make sure you have your mixtures set right for your current climate's conditions. That can help a bit on a hot day. Where I'm at now though.. I don't have to worry about overheating at all. Seattle is in that ...uhh!... rainy winter. So I'm not even really riding. Gotta' keep her clean! Well, one thing is if your engine likes to run hot.. which is one trait of an SRAD for sure.. if you are on a carbed 600 or 750, you may run into some stalls easily from dead stops. What causes this on hot days is that when the temperature is high, the fuel ratio's aren't high, and the intake charge of air's too thin. You can try to adjust your A/F screws a little on the richer side, but you just need to burp the throttle to bring a little cool air before you put a load on the engine upon taking off. Some say use Water Wetter which is that red liquid for adding to your coolant. I have heard good things and bad things. One of the only bad things I've heard is that it supposedly deteriorates water fitting gaskets I guess. But it's heresy... I never use it, and maybe I'll try it on the bike. John has suggested it, so maybe it's good. One thing is I have used it in one of my good ol' VW GTI's and those engines run hot by nature. The Water Wetter in that seemed to evaporate a little quickly I found. So that's my finding on it. It does work for a short time though.
 

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a 2nd fan will be nice in traffic but when you are at speed it will reduce the air flow past your rad... Jeff has talked about this in the past...

Just use your muzzy fan, water wetter, and a manual switch and you should be fine.

Our motors will take the 230* temps with no problems. I have even seen high then that on mine.

Also, if you look in the how to forum there is a mod on how to wire the switch..


John
 

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Absolutely JOHN, thanks for the heads-up on the how-to thread. Also, are you adverse to the thermostat swap, or just don't think it's necessary?


96GIXX7, I just got this '96, and will be changing all the fluids & plugs shortly. If you continue on w/the thermostat swap, please advise as to it's efficacy. That is assuming you get a day to ride
! These bikes do run cold in the rain though. I've never seen her over 140*f when wet (twice already). As for the lean idle on hot days; even though I'm in S.FL I haven't had one yet. I will say that she does have very little torque right off IDLE though. She is piped & jetted so I guess that's expected though. I only notice it if I'm putt putting away from a stop sign or traffic light, and trying to keep the bike quiet for one reason or another (mostly for pigs). My last bike was a 2000 F4, and the same thing happened when I put a cloth air filter in it. She breathed much better up top, but it didn't allow any intake vaccuum off idle and would stumble. When I change the plugs, I wonder what filter I'll see?
 

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How could you just make the stock set up come on at say 200deg. A little sooner than stock, with out having to use a manual switch? Is/would it be a simple mod?
 

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Originally posted by Melampus...:
These bikes do run cold in the rain though. I've never seen her over 140*f when wet (twice already).
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">that sounds a bit low to me. my '00 750 doesn't go below around 165°, and that's at sustained highway speeds in winter.

if i had to take a guess, i'd suspect your thermostat may not be closing fully. this would allow coolant to circulate through the radiator even when it shouldn't (although actually, even when the thermostat is fully closed, the bleed circuit allows a small amount of coolant to go through the radiator), causing overcooling.

on the other hand, if this is normal behavior for the early srad's, just ignore me.


don't worry too much about the 226° temps. remember, 212° is only the boiling point of pure water at sea level. with the pressurization of the cooling system, a 50/50 glycol antifreeze/water mix won't boil until probably well north of 250° or so. if your bike ever gets that hot, turn it off and let it cool.

[ 01-02-2003, 11:50 AM: Message edited by: jeff ]
 

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Understood. "Quick", meaning just over a light cycle. Translation: Driving in town, I come to a stop-light. Light turns green, 10 cars go, light turns red & I'm stuck there for another cycle. What's that 4/5 minutes? By that point she's @210/220. I will add though that I have never seen her over 230* thankfully, and she cools down very quickly.

[ 01-02-2003, 01:25 PM: Message edited by: Melampus... ]
 

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Jeff, you the man. Knowledgable & quick to reply. I'm diggin this board so far. As for the 140*f running temp in the rain being low, I agree, but I was a little misleading I guess. I meant on the highway at speed I never saw her rise over 140*f, still low. I was pretty shocked myself. This bike is new to me, and I'm acclimating to it's ways as I go. It was the same scenario each time. 25 mile highway (I-95) trip in very bad weather. It was about 65*f w/lateral wind gusts up to 15 knots. I was in the bubble at 90mph the whole way with my eyeballs 5" from the gauge, and she was at 137/139* the whole sprint. If the thermostat is stuck open, do you think it would be so quick to reach 230* at traffic lights and in heavy traffic?

TWIST&PISS, Good question. On my '95 Mustang that I just sold for my gixxer I had my computer remapped via a piggy-back chip, and had the techie incorporate that command as well. The computer activated the fan @200*. My point being that the computer controls the fan activation, and like yourself I wonder if anyone knows how to manipulate it yet!? Anyone... Anyone... Bueller... Bueller... Anyone


[ 01-02-2003, 12:15 PM: Message edited by: Melampus... ]
 

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Originally posted by Melampus...:
If the thermostat is stuck open, do you think it would be so quick to reach 230* at traffic lights and in heavy traffic?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">it depends on what you mean by 'so quick', but it's possible.

airflow through the radiator is what makes the difference. let's say you've got two identical bikes, one has a thermostat stuck open and the other has one that is okay. for simplicity's sake we'll assume the thermostats open and close instantly and completely at 175°, and the cooling systems don't have bleed circuits.

riding at highway speeds in cool weather, the bike with the stuck open thermostat would overcool, because its coolant (no matter what its temperature) would constantly be cooled by airflow through the radiator.

the bike with the working thermostat would heat up its coolant to 175° (because the coolant is circulating only throughout the engine and not through the radiator until that point), and then maintains that temperature within a few degrees.

in both cases, we have massive airflow. on the first bike, it's causing overcooling, on the second, it's maintaining a consistent coolant temperature.

what happens if we hit heavy traffic? airflow goes down to zero.

the bike with the stuck thermostat is still circulating coolant through the radiator, but because the engine is putting more heat into the coolant than the radiator can remove (remember, no airflow), the coolant temp rises.

the same thing happens with the second bike. no airflow, no cooling.

the second bike might hit high temps a bit quicker than the first bike, but the time difference may not be huge.

in my first response i had said 'not closing fully', not 'stuck completely open', so that may also reduce the time difference.


this is just a possibility, that's all. your cooling system may have other issues.
 

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I think your stat is stuck... My 99 750 will run at a min 161 - 162 even when like 50* out at night on the freeway running at about 80MPH...

John
 

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i have the muzzy fanblade (metal) on my 1K. I also did a fan switch.....

the one thing to remember (amongst several) is that the fan switch only turns the motor(Fan) on....this isnt what drops the temp alot....
it is the combo of the fan and the opening of the thermo that cools it....

it would take quite sometime for that lil blade to cool a 200° engine....
 

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JOHN... So upon removal if it's still in the open position, it's faulty correct?

ESEMES... You make it sound as if you think swapping the blade, and adding a manual switch was ineffective in AIDING the cooling process. What is your actual opinion of your modification? Have you watched stop-light temperatures drop or not? My goal (at least) is simply to help CURB these ridiculous temperatures by slowing the rise in temp. When the stock fan comes on, the temp has already rose to 226* for me & then it only lowers it 10* tops, but if I can slow that rise I'll be happy. This is the first bike I've had w/a digital water temp gauge so maybe all my bikes ran this hot (don't think so), but I have seen so many warped aluminum heads on cars, I'm paranoid. "Just because you're paranoid, don't mean they're not after you."
 

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It would be stuck most of the time.. but maybe not enought for you to see it... I would just fork out the 15 or 20 bucks and get it.. Also, flush the system...

226 is nothing to worry about.. I have 40K+ miles on my bike and it gets up to 226 a lot in traffic.

With the new fan, water wetter, and the switch, you should be able to keep the temps down to like 210 maybe 200... But I dont think you will see less then 200 sitting in traffic... Not enough air flow and the air temp from the cars around you will be to high to lower the temp more then that...

John
 

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Understood... Thanks again, John.
 

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guys i offered a group buy on these fan blades awhile back and glad to see that they are catching on....$34.99 plus shipping at cycle concepts...still willing to do the group buy if enough people are interested...let me know...thanks!!!

dwayne
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
actually I paid nothing for shipping as I am only 120 miles north of Muzzy's.
was visiting in town in Portland anyhow. But the shipping isn't expensive. It's so light that it wouldn't cost but maybe couple bucks.
 
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