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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a new APE CCT installed at the shop (afraid I would fu** it up), and the mechanic said it was adjusted pretty tight. I started it up, sounded fine at the shop, but once it warmed up on the way home, slowly started ticking. Same this morning on the way to work, about 5 minutes it started and slowly got louder. The ticking directly reflects engine RPM, and you can hear throughout the rev range. I don't hear any chain slap or dieseling sound like valve clatter, just a steady tick than can be heard from idle to redline. It's pretty loud, you can hear it riding through the wind and exhaust. Wierd thing is, you can hear it easier from the left side of the engine, but maybe that's just because the exhaust is on the right. I figured maybe it was just loose, but I'm afraid to tighten it more since the mechanic already said it was pretty tight. Also, never heard it before the APE install, so I'm pretty sure that's got to be it. But I wanted to check with you guys for your opinions. Thanks!
 

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take it back to the shop ,maybe he didnt torque everything correctly and its slipped


ps. just check the header pipes are tight to the head sometimes if they are leaking it can give a ticking sound but i would say it relates to the work the shop did so i'd go back


i take it that it does this when its out of gear and revved aswell as on the move

[ 01-10-2003, 06:24 AM: Message edited by: GIXXERUK ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, it does it all the time after it's warmed up: on the go or sitting still, on it hard or just cruising, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I had a buddy here at work listen to it, and he said it sounded like the cam chain was loose. He's a fairly good bike mechanic.
 

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i can only think it does it hot cos the oil thins and the metal parts expands
does sound like the chain is loose so i wouldnt ride it too much as it may jump a tooth

go back to the shop

post what they say

ride safe

[ 01-10-2003, 07:10 AM: Message edited by: GIXXERUK ]
 

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while holding the adj bolt losen the lock nut 5 full turns. start the bike and tighten the adjuster bolt as tight as u can with your fingers and then back off a 1/4 turn(make sure the lock nut did not bottom out). retighten the lock nut while holding the adjuster bolt in place..

if this does not cure it and you are sure it's not exhaust.. inspect the valve train completly starting with lash

[ 01-10-2003, 07:18 AM: Message edited by: sullytrnygsxr02750 ]
 

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well the same thing happened to me..i took it to shop so they could install cam chain tensioner...got it back, started to tick.. a month later i put avalve thru a piston..take it back!!!!!!
 

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Well I know that sully is good with motors but I do not agree with how he said to adjust it.. Per APE you should have 1/4 -3/8" DEFLECTION (sp). It does sound like it might be a bit on the loose side, but keep in mind that it is going to make more noise then the stock one. That is just part of it...

The reason I do not agree with sully on this is that it would be really easy to mis-adjust the chain. To me it is worth it to just take the time and open the valve cover to make sure..


John
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, I found out what was ticking: My valves for #1 cyclinder were tapping up against the piston. Motor is being torn apart now. We're guessing #1 rod bearing is going out, giving enough play in the piston travel to cause the valves to tap. So, replacing all rod bearings, hopefully crank is undamaged and can just be polished. Damage looks like about 6-7 Benjamins. I've only put about 500 miles on this bike myself, and the bike has less than 10K. Very dissapointing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
By the way, valves were good, within tolerance. And the tapping didin't damage the vavles are the springs, or any part of the valve train. Tranny looks like it was replaced a few thousand miles ago. Oil showed a little copper and nickle colored metal, but not a highly unusual amount. Carb bowl leak repaired with a little gasket sealer. Manual CCT was installed correctly and only a tad bit type, like the mechanic said it was.
 

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Ok if I was you, I would check to make sure the recall on the head gasket was done on that bike.. They had problems with the early SRAD with not enough clearance... The recall was to add a thicker head gasket to give more clearance...

If the recall has not been done I would have Zuk fix it as you are not the first owner, they should cover it.. you might have to fight a bit for it.. but it is all good..

Also, just cause the valves are "in good shape" you might want to get some new ones.. You might not see the problem untill it is to late and the motor blows..


John
 

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Originally posted by GSXR-Freak:
Well I know that sully is good with motors but I do not agree with how he said to adjust it.. Per APE you should have 1/4 -3/8" DEFLECTION (sp). It does sound like it might be a bit on the loose side, but keep in mind that it is going to make more noise then the stock one. That is just part of it...

The reason I do not agree with sully on this is that it would be really easy to mis-adjust the chain. To me it is worth it to just take the time and open the valve cover to make sure..


John
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">ape told me 10mm between the two cam gears, same thing kinda , with my method i end up with their spec. also these heads seem to be hard on valve springs, if u notice the engine service chart it ends at 15,000 miles. done 6 heads in the last month or so exhaust springs are suspect after 5-7,000 miles
 
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