[Jon T. Flesh]

Ok so I rebuilt my forks earlier this year. Last night when I put the bodywork on I noticed I have a lot of resistance with the brakes on the front wheel. The fluid level is perfect and there are no pinched lines. I am curious on if maybe I have the forks not perfectly set height wise or the allignment is off.

My first question is on the fork height. I am measuring from the top of the triple to the top of the fork tube (under where the adjustment screw is), about 12.8 CM (if I remember right) which is what it was before I took them off. Is this where I need to be measuring from?

Onto the alignment. I never had issues when taking the front wheel off but this was another thing I was curious about. When I put the forks and wheel back on how can I check if that is the culprit?

THe wheel just does not rotate as freely as it used to at the end of last season. I could turn it by hand and it would make at least 1 full rotation before stopping, now it goes about 1/4 of a turn. I can still push the bike with little effort but I am just worried about the pads rubbing this much on the rotor.

Thoughts?

Thanks
Flesh

 

[WebCrush]

With the front end on a triple stand or with jackstands under the engine (ie--zero weight on forks) take off the front calipers, front wheel, and front fender

Then take the axle and thread it into forks. It should be really free to spin easily. If it doesn't, then loosen pinch bolts on triple for ONE fork and adjust the fork so that the axle spin freely. Then tighten the pinch bolts back into place.

Put on wheel and caliper and see if you still have front wheel binding. If you do, chances are you have a bent rotor or something wrong with the brakes.

 

[Jon T. Flesh]

Thanks Adam, will try it tonight

 

[P B]

Also make sure the forks are both adjusted the same! If they are not, one side might be longer than the other when weighted.

Your rotors are also probably fragged if you could only get one rotation out of it. It should spin several times with a good yank.

Bring yer bike to SCR today. We'll check them.

 

[Jon T. Flesh]

I have no way to get it to SCR today

 

[WebCrush]

Fleshly, just follow my directions. Chances are when you installed the forks, you individually measured and set the height of each, correct?

This is the wrong way to do it. You want to measure and set ONE fork and then install the 2nd using the method I described above.

 

[Jon T. Flesh]

Adam,
Thanks bro, that must be what I did! I will set the height perfectly on one and then line it up via the axle. That has to be the problem because is spun so well before I fleshified it lol.


Thanks yo!



Flesh

 

[WebCrush]

just make sure you clean all the grit off the axle and from inside the axle housing. when its lined up perfect the axle will spin freely with a one finger roll.

also, when holding/moving the fork, hold it from the area which is held by the triple tree (ie--for a conventional fork, the inner tube, for inverted forks, the outer tube)

 

[Lizard 1]

Also make sure the forks are both adjusted the same! If they are not, one side might be longer than the other when weighted.

Your rotors are also probably fragged if you could only get one rotation out of it. It should spin several times with a good yank.

Bring yer bike to SCR today. We'll check them.

Adam's right, but I think what is being said here is that you need to make sure that each fork has the same setting on compression and rebound...

However, that's not an issue and we have even used different springs in each fork for a 1/2 the road setting deal. So, that won't be an issue. Do it like Adam said - don't go and measure from the top of the fork to the top of the triple and do the same for the other - it can lead to a bind... Set one and do the axle trick....

 

[Jon T. Flesh]

Adam, thanks again. Your directions were flawless. It is warped rotors

Ug, now to race on the 30th or not


Price of stupid rotors

lol


Thanks though, worked like a charm!