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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I gotta run a pretty damn quick car in the next few days and was wondering if anyone knows any lil things i can do to get me through the 1/4 mile a lil faster. Its a 90 1100 has a V&H pro pipe with no megaphone rest is pretty much stock. Anything i can take off to save some weight or anything i can do for free or next to free to goa lil quicker? Any advice is appreciated.
 

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Pull the right side cover and see if you have an aftermarket ignition advancer. Will be stamped V&H or factorypro. If not you could advance it yourself by enlarging the holes in the pickup plate and turning it a little:) FREE!! And the best cheap mod ever! From what I've heard it's more noticible on 86&87'S but it will definitely help...........

.........practice off the line will be the best use of time, but don't burn up the clutch before the race!!
 

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Drop your rear tire psi to 20 / Front 42, lower the front end
as much as you can get away with. That should help you launch better.
For more power fairly cheap run mobile 1 5/30, drop your front gear 1 tooth lower. Try to dump weight, run a 1.4 tank of fuel.
Oh yeah a good wax job.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
All great advice, i know ost of it but i wanna make sure i dont forget anything. Whats the best way to lower the front end?
 

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Tie downs are frequently used by street racers in my area. Make sure that you trim the tag end short or it could cause serious problems.
 

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I say definitely practice your launch. I have to practice mine more. And hopefully will be doing that this weekend , if I can get my clutches in , on time. I ran last year and had good mph , but et suffered. My best 60 ft I believe was 1.82. My skill is on the tree ususally and I can cut great lights. So even with a lousy 60 ft , I dont do too bad against the cages. Since there are very few , if any bikes out where I race locally, people are always a little nose up to me.

Lower the front with straps like mentioned. Dropping a tooth in front , or raise 2-3 in back. Unless you completely blaze the rear tire, I would keep the pressure up. The more you let out, the more mph you ll lose. But if it helps your et, then lower it. The advancer is a great idea. Check your plugs and replace those if they need it. Check your air filter, change your oil and filter. Set your suspension softer or harder for launch reasons. Shift with no clutch and just blip the throttle when you do. Watch your revs, higher revs doesnt necessarily mean more power.

Hopefully this is on the track and not the street. If on the track, then watch your RT. If its lazy slow , say .600 area, then deep stage. If your redlighting , then shallow stage. If you have to cheat, then sand bag it and dial a 11.00 knowing you can run a 10.80 and slow yourself down near the top end, by going to the insdie of the track to scrub off a little et or jab the brakes just before the finsih line. While most people hate it , and some tracks have rules against it, you might want to check that out.

If its on the street then , just cheat leaving off the line LOL.

Good Luck and keep us posted on how you do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well it is gonna be on the street, i have no air filters just open carbs so i cant change those, ill do an oil change too and get some tie down straps for the front. Im not sure if i have the advancer yet or not, and im really good at shifting without the clutch. The trans was undercut and up and downshifts like no other. Ill probably be doing this late friday night unless it rains. Ill let you all know how it goes.

Any gueses as to what i should shift at, its got new plugs wires and coils, the V&H pro pipe, no air filters, and possibly a timing advancer (im gonna guess it does cause the previous owners were big into drag racing old school 1100's) i know it redlines at 11500, but is taht to late to shift, or maybe too early now with the couple mods done to it?
 

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The only thing I can say is get some air filters. You arent going ot lose any performance by bolting on a set, but you will lose the motor if you dont. Doesnt take much to get a little dirt in the motor to ruin it. With todays hi flow filters , theres no reason to not run one. Its hard to say what shift point you need without being at the track to test n tune it.

Here is two examples for you

A. My 79 TA drag car. Car ran 10.80's 124 mph. Pure Pontiac Power. The cam was healthy. It would idle around 1300-1400 rpm. Would pull strongly to 6800 rpm. But at the track it told a different story. The car would barely run in the 11.'s when I would shift it that high. As I gradually lowered rpm, the ets began to drop. My shift point ended up being 5500 rpm and I would pass the traps at 5800 rpm ( perfect ). One the street shifting at those rpms, it was a hellacious monster. I could spin the tires at 70 mph on the highway by dropping to third gear.

B. My 92 GSXR. I first took it ot the track and was shifting around 12,000 rpm. It pulled strongly. I shifted a few times at higher rpms. But had bad 60 fts. So I didnt think my et was any better. I put the bike on a chassis dyno and it made peak power at 13,000 rpm. When I went back to the track, I started shifting at 13.250, it seems to fall off fast above 13,000. Problem with the bike is I hit the traps in a bad rpm spot. Either I hold a gear past what I need, or I shift early and am too low an rpm. Which is now fixed ( hopefully ) with a 14 t front.

My point being, on the street its very hard to tell how a vehichle is performing without having a time slip to tell you. The seat of the pants is just that. No real data from it.

I dont really know what to suggest for a shift point for you.

I can say give it hell and watch out for the MAN.

Good luck
 

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Right before the race pry the rear brake pads back so they don't drag. Clean and lube your chain with oil, then clean it again.
Troy341
 
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