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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
here is what i have come up with, and will help some people on the questions of "if they wanna do it".


wet systems (direct port): these are the safer systems, hands down. but with safty you have costs, and a bunch at that. wet systems come with a added bonus of adding bigger jets, for more hp's. also they keep the EGT (exhaust temp gas's) alot cooler. i recommend steel plumming lines, no chance of a nylon line cracking and leaking. i also recommend a extra nitrous solenoid, not a good thing if the valve sticks open

secondarys are a pain in the ass, if you mount the nozle above the TB's. what i am doing is unscrewing them and tunning it to ajust the fuel (nitrous use only), and using a different map when they are on. there are to many up and down about removing them permanantly , and that is your own choice.

to run a wet system on a FI motorcycle it consists of extra's that people do not think about, or think they need.

fuel pump, it is a must. dont think for one second that you can run a T fitting off your stock fuel pump. you must put a extra nipple at the bottom of the tank and run a seperate line. some people will argue with that, but think about it. your bike is tunned to run at a certain PSI, when the hit of the nitrous, the fuel side has to build the pressure behind the jets. this will cause the PSI to drop. but one thing that is going on during that period is the nitrous being injected into the motor instantly. there is 800+ PSI in a bottle and take milli seconds to start injecting. so you are taking a chance on running your motor lean, and spending $$$$ to replace it.

fuel PSI gauge, not a must but nice to know that it is running and at a good PSI.

i just priced out a system with a purge that is going to cost around 750, around 650 w/o purge. this is all brand new. you can ebay some parts and save a little bit here and there, but i dont like to chance stuff on a product like nitrous.


DRY kits are simple. i still recommend a second nitrous solenoid for reasons above. they are limited to about 30hp. you can go more and that is your own risk. you can put a kit togeather for as little as 150 or less and 200 with second solenoid.


one other thing to think about is jetting. you cannot go by a pill number and expect the correct hp. everything adds up when you push that button. lets say you have cams, and they make about 12 hp, there going to bump up to adding more when you are running nitrous.


this is my thoughts alone, so dont go dwelling on stuff that i said. just another mans opinion ;)
 

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thank you very informative.

In am looking to do a dry 20 shot on my 600.
 

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I agree with what you are saying. I'm running a wet system on my 750. When I got my "kit", there were alot of things that still needed done/ bought that I had not thought about. All together I spent alot more than what I had expected to, but it was worth it. Fuel pump, timing (PC2), mounts, purge, 2nd fuel outlet on tank, lowered / extended (chain,swing arm extentions, rear brake line), I guess you don't need to do all these things, but they really add up fast. Best advise I can give is "Ask alot of questions" and know what you are really getting into. I race a little, but the NOS is just for my own satifaction.:punk
 

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nice write up. im using a dynotune direct port wet kit and what you said about the secondaries is very true, so i went directly in the head below them. im also using a controller so its a smooth hit when it comes on. changing jets is a pain in the ass so i have larger jets in mine but i run my ending % on my conttroller at 70% so no changing jets. IMO wet is the way to go cost more now but could ssave you alot later.
 

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I agree with you about the steel braided line on the wet system. That would be money well spent. I have seen nylon lines break under the tank and run a cylinder lean.

But with a wet system there is so much that can go wrong with all of the components involved (fuel pump, solenoid(s), nitrous lines, fuel lines, etc.....) There is also usually alot of clutter under the tank.

With either a dry or a wet shot you should be using heavier valve springs!!!! If not, you run the risk of dropping a valve!!!! That would be bad.

A dry shot is easier to wire up and run the nitrous lines. It is also easily hidden!!!

I prefer all motor bikes myself, but if I were to run nitrous it would be a 40 HP dry shot with the Dynojet Multi Function Hub (which allows you to switch between two maps, one all motor and one with gas) you can also use it like a window switch to only spray after a certain RPM and at a certain Throttle Position.

But you know what they say about opinions :) :) :)
 
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