Hey Toro, the older style pump is lower down but the well on the mounting plate basically only serves as a windage baffle and the pump is still not submerged when near empty. The filter sock strainer sits in the well.Gotcha. Thanks for the input. I want to run some tests on the stock pump to check on things like the temperature at various pressures and voltages, and then compare it to a Walbro. The older style pump housing always kept part of the pump submerged, but the newer style housing has a flat bottom and, as you said, could lead to much higher operating temps (and premature wear) if the gas is run down all the way.
I'll post some more pics once I get the teeth cut -- it looks like jewelry afterwards.
First off, sorry for the lack of updates -- work has been crazy and this whole project got pushed back by quite a few months. All I've wanted to do is work on this bike, and now I'm finally able to do so again...For a real hi tech configuration it may be possible to modify the starter assembly and gears to provide the drive and run the blower in behind the engine near the throttle body. A lot of work cutting gears and doing starter modifications.
Man i'm so anxious to see the results when your finished!!!:franticI had an extra airbox laying around from my 10R project, so I popped it on the GSXR to check fitment...
Everything easily fits under the tank, and there is loads of room under the airbox itself (so much, in fact, that I plan on mounting the BOV under there rather than welding a nipple in the intake tubing). I can also fit the Rotrex oil reservoir right next to the airbox.
Obviously a new throttle body plate will have to be made to match the GSXR's runners, but I'm glad that everything else fits so well. The tubing going from the Rotrex outlet to the airbox inlet should also be a piece of cake to fab up, needing only a few simple bends.
Next up, I can't believe how quickly this part came in, but here's the inlet for the Rotrex:
It's made out of Alumide using a process called Selective Laser Sintering. It has a very high temp resistance and is quite strong. This part only existed on my computer before it was literally printed into this form. Amazing. I could actually get it made out of stainless or titamium, but the cost is ridiculous.
Anyway, this inlet will allow an oval tube to run right behind the header to the other side of the bike, where cool fresh air will be drawn in. I plan on removing the ram air tube and sticking a filter up in that empty pocket as I hate filters that stick out the side. Everything will be heat wrapped to keep the temps as cool as possible.
Lots of machining still to come.
yeah buddyBefore I get to the CNC machining, it's time for some good old fashioned lathe work. I needed to make an idler pulley and an adapter for the BOV to interface with the airbox.
First up is the idler. I started with a 2.5" bar of 6061...
An hour later....
Next up is the BOV adapter. Another hour (or more) later...
After parting each blank, I faced the backsides and did a secondary drilling op on the adapter. The idler was designed with hard anodize in mind, so the bore was left .002" larger to properly fit the bearing. Precision pays dividends in the end.