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Gotcha. Thanks for the input. I want to run some tests on the stock pump to check on things like the temperature at various pressures and voltages, and then compare it to a Walbro. The older style pump housing always kept part of the pump submerged, but the newer style housing has a flat bottom and, as you said, could lead to much higher operating temps (and premature wear) if the gas is run down all the way.
Hey Toro, the older style pump is lower down but the well on the mounting plate basically only serves as a windage baffle and the pump is still not submerged when near empty. The filter sock strainer sits in the well.

The later model ones have a built in windage baffle in the housing further up so they don't need the well in the bottom plate.

But you are right that the pump motor is actually a bit higher so stays submerged less overall than the earlier ones.

I think MPP12 or someone else said it already. The older pumps should have the same base plate dimensions and bolt pattern. So you may be able to retrofit the Walbro to that assembly and run it in the later model tank.

For a real hi tech configuration it may be possible to modify the starter assembly and gears to provide the drive and run the blower in behind the engine near the throttle body. A lot of work cutting gears and doing starter modifications.

Nice work. :cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
For a real hi tech configuration it may be possible to modify the starter assembly and gears to provide the drive and run the blower in behind the engine near the throttle body. A lot of work cutting gears and doing starter modifications.
First off, sorry for the lack of updates -- work has been crazy and this whole project got pushed back by quite a few months. All I've wanted to do is work on this bike, and now I'm finally able to do so again...

Kwaka, you said it right - a whole lot of work. It might be possible to do that (I've seen 1098s set up that way), but the position I have the Rotrex right now really is quite good.


Ok, onto some new stuff. I tested the fuel pump at various voltages and found out that despite being small, that little sucker can really pump some fuel -- in standard configuration it can easily handle 230whp, and with a boost in voltage, 400+ is possible, so no more worrying about fitting a Walbro or different pump housing.

After cutting the teeth, I sent the pulleys out to get hard anodized...



I fabbed up a bracket out of some plexiglass I had laying around and turned up some standoffs to get everything properly spaced and positioned into place. At this point I have the main bracket design pretty much figured out, but I want to make sure everything fits before I start writing any CNC programs. Plexiglass is great for mock-up as it's easy to work with and allows you to see potential issues lurking behind the bracket.




This is about as low profile as I can get make it. An idler will eventually reside between the pulleys on the top belt span.




Definitely going to need some clearance here. I don't know how much of the pulley will end up poking outside the fairing, but one way or another, most of the drive will fit behind the bodywork.




There shouldn't be any issue with ground clearance here. I actually think there's less clearance with the stock cover on the LH side than there is with the supercharger positioned there.



Lots more to come, so stay tuned...
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I had an extra airbox laying around from my 10R project, so I popped it on the GSXR to check fitment...



Everything easily fits under the tank, and there is loads of room under the airbox itself (so much, in fact, that I plan on mounting the BOV under there rather than welding a nipple in the intake tubing). I can also fit the Rotrex oil reservoir right next to the airbox.




Obviously a new throttle body plate will have to be made to match the GSXR's runners, but I'm glad that everything else fits so well. The tubing going from the Rotrex outlet to the airbox inlet should also be a piece of cake to fab up, needing only a few simple bends.


Next up, I can't believe how quickly this part came in, but here's the inlet for the Rotrex:



It's made out of Alumide using a process called Selective Laser Sintering. It has a very high temp resistance and is quite strong. This part only existed on my computer before it was literally printed into this form. Amazing. I could actually get it made out of stainless or titamium, but the cost is ridiculous.

Anyway, this inlet will allow an oval tube to run right behind the header to the other side of the bike, where cool fresh air will be drawn in. I plan on removing the ram air tube and sticking a filter up in that empty pocket as I hate filters that stick out the side. Everything will be heat wrapped to keep the temps as cool as possible.



Lots of machining still to come.
 

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I had an extra airbox laying around from my 10R project, so I popped it on the GSXR to check fitment...



Everything easily fits under the tank, and there is loads of room under the airbox itself (so much, in fact, that I plan on mounting the BOV under there rather than welding a nipple in the intake tubing). I can also fit the Rotrex oil reservoir right next to the airbox.




Obviously a new throttle body plate will have to be made to match the GSXR's runners, but I'm glad that everything else fits so well. The tubing going from the Rotrex outlet to the airbox inlet should also be a piece of cake to fab up, needing only a few simple bends.


Next up, I can't believe how quickly this part came in, but here's the inlet for the Rotrex:



It's made out of Alumide using a process called Selective Laser Sintering. It has a very high temp resistance and is quite strong. This part only existed on my computer before it was literally printed into this form. Amazing. I could actually get it made out of stainless or titamium, but the cost is ridiculous.

Anyway, this inlet will allow an oval tube to run right behind the header to the other side of the bike, where cool fresh air will be drawn in. I plan on removing the ram air tube and sticking a filter up in that empty pocket as I hate filters that stick out the side. Everything will be heat wrapped to keep the temps as cool as possible.



Lots of machining still to come.
Man i'm so anxious to see the results when your finished!!!:frantic
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Before I get to the CNC machining, it's time for some good old fashioned lathe work. I needed to make an idler pulley and an adapter for the BOV to interface with the airbox.

First up is the idler. I started with a 2.5" bar of 6061...





An hour later....




Next up is the BOV adapter. Another hour (or more) later...




After parting each blank, I faced the backsides and did a secondary drilling op on the adapter. The idler was designed with hard anodize in mind, so the bore was left .002" larger to properly fit the bearing. Precision pays dividends in the end.

 

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Before I get to the CNC machining, it's time for some good old fashioned lathe work. I needed to make an idler pulley and an adapter for the BOV to interface with the airbox.

First up is the idler. I started with a 2.5" bar of 6061...





An hour later....




Next up is the BOV adapter. Another hour (or more) later...




After parting each blank, I faced the backsides and did a secondary drilling op on the adapter. The idler was designed with hard anodize in mind, so the bore was left .002" larger to properly fit the bearing. Precision pays dividends in the end.

yeah buddy
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Here's a little guide on CNC machining parts. Most people probably think that all it takes to machine a billet part is a drawing and the push of a button. Ha, I wish. Unless you have access to some expensive CAM software and a 5-axis machine, it's nowhere near that easy.

First you create a drawing. In my case, a 2D drawing of the front and back of the part is required. Then, using those drawings, you create a program that the CNC mill runs on. With the software we have, this means manually creating toolpaths, figuring out cutting depths, and generating code for each individual tool to be used. For this supercharger bracket, a total of 4 programs (front, back, fixture, facing) will have to be created to get to the finished part.

We're not done yet. After ordering material, the blanks have to be cut to the proper length. Then, each blank is squared up and faced (front and back) to the final thickness. The first op is the front side...





Before the back can be machined, the fixture has to be created. This fixture locates the blanks via 3 pinned locations and will allow the final part to be cut out of the larger material.




The fixture is clamped in the vises and the blank is bolted to it. After loading up a different set of tools, the backside program is run...




The part is then unbolted from the fixture, cleaned off, deburred, and voilà:





The only thing to check now is fitment on the bike. Think it fits?






Woohoo! All is good. The only thing left to do now is send out the bracket and idler pulley for anodize.
 
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