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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
i have been reading through this forum for 3 weeks searching for answers and my eyes turned square from the flipping screen.

so recently i noticed something was off , the bike was engine braking hard. but it's not always like that
so i thought you know what, i am gonna try a few things.

  • i changed the oil and filter on the bike ''motul 10w40 300v''
  • i adjusted the TPS to the middle ''-C00'' just before it kisses the top line''. bike felt a lot better without the herky jerky.
  • changed the spark plugs to NGK iridium.
  • did the pair mod , closed it off with plates and capped it.
  • checked the kickstand switch and lubed it.
  • i took apart the fuel pump and changed the mesh filter
  • i raised my idle to 1300 and adjusted the TPS again.

after the pair mod i was like this is really a drastic change felt like a different bike.
i never was able to take a roundabout in 3rd gear i always take it it 2nd but it felt so smooth that 3rd felt as i was gliding through butter.

even low speeds were no issue when i went to park it in the garage rolling around in 2nd gear as if i was in 1st without the jerkiness, i thought i fixed it.
it was around 11 pm so the weather was nice and cool around 12/15 degrees celsius. maybe that had something to do with it.

2 days later boom it came back.

now i have read that someone had issues with the coil pack that a few loose leads on the coils were in the boots, but not tight enough to get a constant connection.
has anyone had the same issue what did you do to solve it. ?

''still waiting on my appointment to get it to a dyno and fine tune everything.''
 

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slipper is the only real solution, good compression is good compression.. slippers are what a grand for that bike? next gen has one and I think that is why, the 2nd gen had plenty of engine braking Suzuki got complaints, I liked it myself, used it to steer, I miss that bike a whole lot too, my silver bullet, man what a bike.. if not for the power/mid torque of the 05, I would say that it's the best GSXR ever produced, so raw, love that bike, so simple, 4 pc body... yup
 

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"without the herky jerky"
Herky jerky is commonly due to a failing TPS. Have you checked for a smooth variation in its resistance as the throttle is turned?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
"without the herky jerky"
Herky jerky is commonly due to a failing TPS. Have you checked for a smooth variation in its resistance as the throttle is turned?
let's say it's very tiring to ride around low speed areas because it either a kick back when you turn the throttle on or you get pushed to the front because of the heavy engine break.
Haven't checked that out yet , do you mean by checking how much voltage i am getting. ? thanks
577759
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
slipper is the only real solution, good compression is good compression.. slippers are what a grand for that bike? next gen has one and I think that is why, the 2nd gen had plenty of engine braking Suzuki got complaints, I liked it myself, used it to steer, I miss that bike a whole lot too, my silver bullet, man what a bike.. if not for the power/mid torque of the 05, I would say that it's the best GSXR ever produced, so raw, love that bike, so simple, 4 pc body... yup
Haha yeahh i truly love the bike, but because of this heavy engine braking i am not really enjoying it to be honest. there are days where it rides so smooth it feels like your riding a automatic.
so a slipper clutch , i will start doing my research and see if its gonna do me any good. thanks
 

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GSX-R 1000 2014 L4 in the Netherlands
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tps first, also in my 2008 gsx650f the absurd/wtf engine breaking was because of environment electronics, solved with O2 eliminator and x-tre, and adjust tps and throttle body carbtune?

Maybe the info below is not relevant info for a gsxr 2003 model?
 

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1. Is this happening when you close the throttle and just let the bike slow on its own? Or are you downshifting/rev-matching and it is happening?

2. Are you sure it isn't brake drag from a stuck caliper possibly, or is your chain tension too tight? Both can make engine braking seem worse.

3. If it turns out that it is actually engine braking, a good tuner can dial it down through an ECU flash.

Just an FYI, I had a K3 1000 that wound up having well over 50k flawless miles on it, and it served triple duty, street, track day, and club racing. One of the best bikes I have ever owned.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
tps first, also in my 2008 gsx650f the absurd/wtf engine breaking was because of environment electronics, solved with O2 eliminator and x-tre, and adjust tps and throttle body carbtune?

Maybe the info below is not relevant info for a gsxr 2003 model?
Yeah i heard about the x-tre module that people felt that it did resolve some sort of the issue. il look into it. thanks for the post ever little bit of information i can get helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
1. Is this happening when you close the throttle and just let the bike slow on its own? Or are you downshifting/rev-matching and it is happening?

2. Are you sure it isn't brake drag from a stuck caliper possibly, or is your chain tension too tight? Both can make engine braking seem worse.

3. If it turns out that it is actually engine braking, a good tuner can dial it down through an ECU flash.

Just an FYI, I had a K3 1000 that wound up having well over 50k flawless miles on it, and it served triple duty, street, track day, and club racing. One of the best bikes I have ever owned.
When i close the throttle and just let the bike slow down on its own. but it happens in such a drastic way. it feels like what you're saying as if its braking.
the caliper was dragging 2 weeks ago , because there was air in the braking fluid.
checked the chain yesterday its at 3 / 3.5 cm
when i roll the rear tire when its on the paddock i hear it slightly going over the rear brake. but that wouldn't be it.

i think i just have to bring in to a good mechanic who knows his stuff. because i am not really a mechanic i just know a few basic things.

that's what i am saying i wanna enjoy this bike to the fullest like you did. the moment i laid eyes on it i was like yes this is the one !
 

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sounds almost like a jake brake, you're not losing any compression or excessive blowby are you? hows the CCT and chain?
 

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"do you mean by checking how much voltage i am getting. ?"
A better way it to disconnect the TPS connector and connect an ohmmeter to the terminals associated wit the P/B and B/Br leads. The resistance should vary smoothly as the throttle turns. Do the same between the R and P/B terminals. You can do all that with the ignition off. It will take some finagling because the frame rail limits access to the sensor but doing it this way allows you to take your time without worrying about running the battery down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
sounds almost like a jake brake, you're not losing any compression or excessive blowby are you? hows the CCT and chain?
This is it ! i wasn't sure , but not i know for a fact it's that.
as if you are driving a car and instead of placing the gear in 5th you slam it in 3rd and let off the clutch and the engine slows down drastically thats how it feels.
how do i check and resolve the issue ?
can the cam chain and CCT cause such behaviour ?

''losing any compression or excessive blow by''
this i need to test out , i haven't ruled this one out yet.

i am gonna search the forum for answers maybe someone else has had the same issue.

"do you mean by checking how much voltage i am getting. ?"
A better way it to disconnect the TPS connector and connect an ohmmeter to the terminals associated wit the P/B and B/Br leads. The resistance should vary smoothly as the throttle turns. Do the same between the R and P/B terminals. You can do all that with the ignition off. It will take some finagling because the frame rail limits access to the sensor but doing it this way allows you to take your time without worrying about running the battery down.
Thank you will try and check it out today and tomorrow how to resolve this issue.
thank you guys for trying to help me out ! i appreciate it
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i tested out the compression it came out as followed.
from left to right.
1 = 138 PSI
2 = 135 PSI
3 = 142 PSI
4 = 145 PSI

i just saw a video , where they poured a little of oil in there to see if it jumps higher or not.
F me , i didnt do that now i dont know if it the piston rings are bad or not. such an idiot

the very strong petrol smell coming out the exhaust is throwing me off aswell. not knowing what the cause of it.
its time to call a proper mechanic and dyno to sort everything out.
 

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i tested out the compression it came out as followed.
from left to right.
1 = 138 PSI
2 = 135 PSI
3 = 142 PSI
4 = 145 PSI

i just saw a video , where they poured a little of oil in there to see if it jumps higher or not.
F me , i didnt do that now i dont know if it the piston rings are bad or not. such an idiot

the very strong petrol smell coming out the exhaust is throwing me off aswell. not knowing what the cause of it.
its time to call a proper mechanic and dyno to sort everything out.
A leakdown test is what is needed, not a compression test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
thank you guys for all the help , i am gonna bring it to a mechanic real soon
and see what is wrong with the bike. every shop is super busy. will keep you guys updated what the issue was , for the people that are interested. 👏🏽
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
the mechanics are still very busy and still waiting to let them check the bike out , but i said you know what let me try one more thing
i reinstalled the original pair valves system and the problem was instantly gone and it is running smoothly again.

just incase someone is having the same issue as me
 
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