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Discussion Starter #1
A have a workshop installed sc-kit from UK. Works very fine but a couple of issues were unnoticed. Rotrex c15-60 is maybe not the best choice, now i would probably go bigger. OEM gas pump and injectors must be replaced or else the fun ends before the rpm redline.
Very easy and soft to drive, won't charge under 50 mph if you go easy.
 

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Captain Obvious ... because obviously it’s obvious
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Unless you have a built engine, it's probably for the best to not have a crazy supercharger.
 

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Not exactly sure what year 1000 you have,but you should upgrade the fuel pump to a Walbro 255lph external setup and increase fuel pressure. Not sure if it's done the same way on a S/C bike as on a turbo bike,but a basic Begi FMU works great up to 300rwhp.

You could easily toast your engine on 5.8psi unless your tune is 100%.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Tuning is done with pcv and tuner said it went well. But after 10000 rpm afr rise's out of limits. This with original gaspump and injectors. So it means it must be driven with that in mind.
Head gasket is bit thicker and clutchsprings are bit harder. All enginebearings were replaced. Exhaust is acrapovic all the way. And gear-ratio of the belt was fasten a bit. It wasn't using 100% of its capacity. It's giving 205 whp now, without extra cooling.

It's not ready yet, but it's safely getting there. Oh and it's model 2002.
 

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I would consider 4 psi and under "low boost". 6 psi or nearly 6 is too much for 13 to 1 (on a bike anyways, especially yours as it has 12to1 compression ratio). 12.5 to 1 is a little safer, but I have built NA motors that run better 12.5 to 1 than at 13. That chart may also be for cars, which run at a much lower rpm with lower compression ratios. 12.5 to 1 at 6 psi at 11000 rpm for any extended period of time is asking for trouble. On a dyno for a 8 sec run, it may be nice for power, but for reliability, make it richer. :cheers
 
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