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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello. Could anyone tell me what these three wires control? Mighty Mouse broke into my shed last week and decided to snack on my bike.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
More... Checked manual. Looks like those go to the generator. What's weird is that I was actually able to ride my bike like this for a day before I noticed the rat nest built on top of the engine. Could any major harm have been done?
 

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These cables indeed come from the alternator, go to the rectifier and feed the charging system of the bike.
With the cables chewed through, you are basically running the bike on a total loss system. Meaning you're running the battery empty...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm surprised it restarted after I stopped and ate in town..lol Will definitely fix it before my next ride.
 

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I don't recognize those colors, though they clearly come from the stator, and the generator cover isn't OEM. Might the stator have been replaced sometime in the past?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Well...I added the colors with a sharpie so I wouldn't get the wires mixed up after I snipped the other frayed wire to clean it up. The one I marked orange was the only one completely chewed in half. I'm just glad all three were not completely broken, otherwise I would not have known what end to match them up with since they were all originally plain white. You're right...aftermarket stator or cover. The bike had been down before I bought it...salvage title. Don't really know the details, but it was totaled. I bought it with 7,000 miles on it. Up to 22,000 now and no major issues. Just found a few spacers and cowling fasteners missing here and there as I've worked on it..

PS..I also found your color coded wiring diagram. That thing is awesome! Thanks so much for sharing.
 

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The three leads from the stator are all equivalent, which is why they aren't color coded. You can mix them up without hurting anything. But the electrical connections must all be good and there can't be any shorts to ground.
 

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I am 100% confident I would either get a new stator or REWIRE this one..

this is a 3 phase stator lead,meaning each of those wires carries an AC load, that means current travels back and forth, back and forth, the entire time its running.. it's not DC until after the rectifier, as the R/R rectifies the AC not being a DC problem..

solder joints, connector, so forth are NOT GOOD for this application..

this is already apparent with the many connectors we have seen in the past form Suzuki, "cooked" these leads should PLUG directly into the R/R and not have a connector 6" down from the R/R and 20" up form the stator, bad joojoo...

so here's the deal, some guys actually rewire their stator anyways with heavier better insulated wire AND find a mosfet R/R that utilizes direct coupling and wire stator leads directly to the R/R and forego that bridge..

if you found an R/R with direct coupling like that roadster dood has you can rewire the stator and direct couple, major upgrade, specially if you wire directly to battery from R/R... yup..... if not you can rewire the stator directly to the connector as it was wired stock, wire direct to battery or not.. dealers choice.. may as well go up 1 gauge and find better insulated wire.. better wire all the way around, it's a cooling issue, the stock connector/plug is a heat block, and if you solder those splices that will be a mini heat block as well, (remember its AC at this juncture) may as well rewire it with wire that handles that current then some, you know the current I am referring to right?

the 5800 volts at 5500 RPM? decent amount for a bike so a better R/R is good and direct wiring is good, soldering is hoaky, at least rewire it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well dang. That escalated quickly. I'm considering the rewire. Are those wires readily accessible if I take the cover off, or are there other internal parts to remove? Do you happen to know what gauge wire is stock? I haven't been able to find just the 3 wire bundle available for sale anywhere accept by ordering the entire stator assembly which looks like it will run about $230.00.
 

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you can get wire anywhere, do you have an electronics shop nearby? you'll have to pull the stator to desolder pretty sure? solder sucker wire mesh or a solder sucker.. bring in the stator or the wire once removed and have it matched up wherever they sell wire near you.. hardware stores have it, just try to avoid all things chinese, its inferior and its chinese..

if you have to order it online I guess we can find a wire schematic and figure it out, then go a gauge larger.. figure out the best insulation for that application, that wire dood sells at roadster is good stuff I know this I have a setup form him, dang nice wire.. to cut cost Suzuki is always going a gauge smaller and using the least expensive wire possible, how they;re able to keep em affordable.. or used to be, they sure are going up in 21...

an electrician will know who makes the best wire for the application or just match it up go one larger? maybe email dood at roadstercycles? he prolly has the wire and a good idea how to solder those wires? he does it all the time..

maybe you can get the direct to battery wire as well and maybe the direct coupling mosfet R/R from him too? he is the dood all things charging systems, has been forever, since I was a kid it seems? someone here knows all this stuff cuz they dunnit, someone just dunnit and used a better wire I remember that thread.. same type of situation if I remember right, broken wires?
 

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My recollection is that the wires aren't heavy enough to be 14 ga and 18 ga sounds too light. So that leaves 16 ga. If you have a micrometer and want to dig into it, see #6 here. The wire is likely to be a metric size so you may end up with a fractional AWG size.

The connector is a Hitachi type with unsealed contacts. They are prone to failure from contact corrosion and loose contacts from too many couplings. Replacement contacts and/or connectors are readily available. I don't have a problem with soldering as long as it's well done. Some extra rosin flux can be very helpful. Using the next size wire for splices wouldn't hurt. But removing the wire all the way back to the stator windings sounds like a job for a professional.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thank you sirs! Well, I think I've decided to go with soldering first to get my bike back on the road. Mainly because spring just hit, I'm watching these 70 degree days tick by, and I don't really have a decent shop to work in. I'm going to look into a more permanent fix this winter or if I have a melt down...whichever comes first. Pop open the stator, see if I think I can rewire back to it. If not, may just flip the $230.00 for a whole new assembly. I appreciate the help!
 

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Thank you sirs! Well, I think I've decided to go with soldering first to get my bike back on the road. Mainly because spring just hit, I'm watching these 70 degree days tick by, and I don't really have a decent shop to work in. I'm going to look into a more permanent fix this winter or if I have a melt down...whichever comes first. Pop open the stator, see if I think I can rewire back to it. If not, may just flip the $230.00 for a whole new assembly. I appreciate the help!
IIWY, I'd just do the fix you have planned and see how it works. If it's fine, I wouldn't go rewiring the stator!
You didn't say what bike it is, I'm assuming K5/6 1000- the forum you posted in?
One of the only really weak 'wire' points/plugs is AFTER it goes back to DC. The large plug that goes to the front end of the bike. Specifically the Black ground wire that goes into that big plug under the left side fairing to the left of the forks- gets old, then hot, then melts the plug, etc. It usually causes all the dash lights to go off- and it still runs though.
FWIW.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yep! K6 1000.. The splice will be in an easy spot to monitor...just have to raise the gas tank, so I think I'm going to do that for now and just keep an eye on it and see how it does. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It's done. And yes...those are butt connectors. I can see Twisted shaking his head now. Had to do it due to lack of access to solder gun. The original wires weren't long enough after cutting out the bad section. I replaced them with new 14 gauge wire, disassembled and reused original connector and terminals. Also wrapped the wires with some high temp electric tape for added protection.
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I believe original wires probably were 16 gauge because the 14 was slightly larger. I figure a little less resistance wouldn't hurt. Will post back after a few rides and let you know if it melts through or not.
 
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