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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

I was wanting to put a manual thermofan switch on my '11 1000. Ive tried searching but cannot find any details of doing this to a 2011 model, nor do any places seem to sell the plug-n-play fan switch kit for this model.

Can anybody point me in the right direction for doing this mod?

cheers
J
 

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If it's just a standard two pin plug at the radiator...You just need a length of wire, switch, and a place to put it........piggy back into those wires.....neatly
 

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BusaR's question is significant as it effects the hookup. There are important questions like do you want the switch to be able to operate the fan when the bike is off or only when it's running. You're going to have to bring power to a switch and from it to the fan. It's desirable to use a lighted switch where the light comes on when the switch is turned on. Otherwise it will be easy to forget and leave the fan running. That probably means that you'll need a double pole switch and another wire. There's the issue of whether you want the light to also come on when the switch is off but the fan is turned on from normal control. Where the switch is going to be located is another issue. Routing the wires along the wiring harness, securing them, and putting a protective sheath over them will take some thought. Depending on the specifics, it may make more sense to connect at the fan relay rather than at the fan. All in all, not terribly complicated but there are a bunch of details to do it well.

Also see this. I don't know if the XS-Boost kit is just an expensive switch. The Dano's controller is discontinued.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
cheers for the guidance guys.

reason for it is as in my city it gets pretty hot in summer (40-45 Celsius/ 105-113 fahren).
which means the temp gets up to fan level usually when you are stopped at lights and drowns you in hot air, and leaves you taking off with the bike over 100 Celsius which never excites me.
Im figuring with the switch i can activate it when im riding slower to keep the temps down and also avoid it getting so hot when im sitting there (for the bike and my sake).

so yeah, just after a simple swtich that will allow me to do that. i dont need it to be able to turn on when the bike is off, or override the standard system or anything.

cheers
J
 

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I can't recommend this but it's possible to connect a lighted switch to the fan relay by two wires so that the light turns on whenever the fan is off. The advantage is that only two wires are needed and they both run from the switch to the relay. The disadvantage is that the light works exactly the opposite of what a sane person would want. I came across this as part of synchronizing my throttle valves.

To have the light operate in a "normal" fashion requires a third lead to ground. There is a ground fairly close by at the dealer mode/SDS connector.
 

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You can always flash your ECU and adjust your fan to kick in at 95°C ,or even lower. I've done this on my ZX10R and I rarely see 100°C anymore in city traffic. Just keep in mind that setting the fan that low,say 95°-on/90°-off,the fan will be working continously until you get moving again,because it can't lower the temperature at such low levels
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yeah i know but still not really achieving the goals i have for it- keeping temps lower when im filtering/riding slower in traffic and then otherwise not having it drown my in hot air once i get to a stop.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thought i would update. I finally got around to doing this. Launching at over 100deg Celsius at the drags made me cringe a bit so got me motivated to put it in.
After looking at the wiring diagram the best solution i could come up with was to draw the power from the +terminal fan fuse wire and run this to a switch and then down to the fan. I wanted to retain the existing fan circuit to avoid drawing on and messing with any other circuits, especially if there was a short, and in this retaining the fuse designed for that circuit.
To make this as tidy as possible i soldered the lines onto the pin connectors (pop them out the back of their plug and solder in and shrinkwrap) to make sure it was going to be a solid (no shorts) as well as neat job. I also ran these wires in the standard fan wire sheath to keep it extra neat and also mitigate the likelihood of a melted wire as its in a pretty warm part of the bike next to head and the reg/rect.
See pictures below of this as well as where i put the switch.
Works a treat!
 

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I'm not trying to bust your balls but your previous justification involved exposure to hot air while in traffic. Now it's changed to engine temp while drag racing. This makes me wonder how thoroughly you've thought this out.

The Dano's controller that he no longer sells seems to still be around. See this - and it's from an Australian seller.

I don't see any indicator light and the place where you've mounted the switch seems awkward to access. These are important aspects of a good installation and significantly increases the likelihood that you turn it on and forget about it.

It's not a manual switch but I'm inclined to say that T.R.E's method of lowering the on/off temps via a reflash would have been a better way to go. It would have cost significantly more than a $5 switch but it would have worked better too.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nah youre right mate, healthy respectful debate is a good thing.

I live in a hot city, and as i mentioned before it had always irked me sitting in traffic and watching it bounce between 105 and 90s. But with doing some drag racing as well as track days coming up i wanted to be able control temps and it motivated me to get in and do it finally.
Launching at 105 like i had to the other day did not excite me one bit. And with doing runs and then coming back at the 30kmh return road limit meant that the bike was just getting heat soaked and not able to shed the heat and launches were always between 95 and 105. And the best way to do that is to have a manual fan controller vs the reflash process (im in an isolated city and shops want mad money to do anything).

As far as the switch goes, its very easy to reach and switch on and off (i know the photo doesnt look like it), but also set back enough that it wont accidentally get knocked on.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
And it worked a treat at the drags. Instead of high temps for launching i could have it at 80deg at the launch every time.
 
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