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Discussion Starter #1
I read through the other topics over blown fuses. My symptoms are a bit different. I have a 2005 GSX-R 1000. When I hit around 7k-8k RPM's it seems to hit a dead spot. When I hit around 11k-12K RPM's The main fuse blows (the instrument panel dies along with the bike). This has happened twice, both times I was getting on the throttle fairly aggressively. I just got the bike recently. The tip sensor was tripped, main fuse blown, subframe and main front stay broken. I replaced all of that and it started. It also had a power commander and auto tuner, which I accidentally fried the power commander hooking it up wrong. I have LED's hooked to the batter as well as a quick connect to put the battery tender on easily. No other mods to my knowledge. I don't see any bare wires or melted connections.
Any clues as to where to start to diagnose the problem?

:gaah
 

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Are the all fuses at their OEM size? There isn't much that isn't protected by fuses smaller than the 30 A main. So it points at a short somewhere, ex. on the R lead from the starter solenoid to the R/R, fuse box, and ignition switch. You could try removing the FAN, HEAD-LO, and HEAD-HI fuses and checking to see if things improve. Just keep an eye on the temp and stay away from situations where it would get hot (pull over if it goes above 225 °F).

There shouldn't be any dead spot. Your ability to go to higher RPMs tends to rule out a clogged fuel filter unless you're somehow also backing off on the throttle. Make sure that your kickstand switch isn't being tripped by a weak spring. Do you have an EXCVA? I guess it could also be the secondary throttle not opening correctly.
 

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Also use a multimeter to measure the voltage at the battery at idle and at higher engine speeds. Make sure it doesn't go over 15V or so. Perhaps the regulator has failed and your system voltage climbs too high at higher engine speeds, causing large currents and blown fuses.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys for responding :)

We disabled my kickstand switch because it was tripping often due to the spring. When i hit the dead spot I back off the throttle cuz it scared me since I didn't know what it was doing. IDK what an EXCVA is.

How do I test the voltage with the multimeter?
 

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The EXCV is the valve on the OEM exhaust located right before the muffler. EXCVA is the associated actuator.

The kickstand spring is a dual concentric spring. It might weaken over time but should work fine if both springs are present. With a lot of use and lack of lubrication, the pivot bolt might wear and need to be replaced. Also note that the switch contains a diode that is rarely installed when the switch is bypassed; and probably should be.

Remove the seat and measure the voltage across the battery cables. It's better to measure at the cable ends than the battery terminals in case there's a bad connection. Measure at idle and when you rev to 5000 RPM. You could also try measuring at the O/W and B/W leads on the dealer mode connector (should be battery voltage) as well as the R and B/Br leads on the nearby 8 pin SAP connector (should be 5 V).

Please expand on "I have LED's hooked to the batter as well as a quick connect to put the battery tender on easily." What are the LEDs about? Is the quick connect like this:

or like this?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The quick connect is what is in the picture. The LED's are my XKGlow light kit. It's a closed system and shouldn't be causing any issues with the bike.

I'm really hoping it's not a bad R/R
 
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