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Best option to improve brakes

  • New discs e.g. Brembo T Drives

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  • Give up! Nothing improves! Suzuki failed

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Let's be honest and get the elephant out of the room, the GSXR brakes are shockingly bad.

I have owned the following GSXR's
1. SRAD 600 1999, the brakes felt like wood!
2. GSXR 1000 K7, brake fade kicked in massively on track despite braided lines.

The new GSXR 1000 2017+ feel slightly better, but it's still an issue and it's like Suzuki are ignoring us...
Also, saw this ad https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264528520353?ul_noapp=true claiming Brembo T-Drive discs? Can anyone confirm what the standard discs are? The disc part number does not confirm: 5921017K01

Vote which intervention you think makes the highest braking impact!

Slicker
 

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Get a better master cyclinder first and SS braided lines and it will feel like it should. Then work from their on components if needed (better pads, calipers, rotors)

Master Cyclinder (Brembo, Galespeed, Accossato)

Also, 2017 GSXR1000 front rotors should be Brembo T-Drive hybrid floating disks already on the bike. While they are oem sourced by Suzuki they should be good rotors and the least of your breaking problems as long as they are not warped.
 

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I voted new master cylinder, but I'd go for an accossato jobby. I've had my current one on my last 5 GSXR1000s

 

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Here is the Suzuki OEM description on the stock OEM brembo discs...

"Brembo stainless steel brake discs are 10 mm larger in diameter, measuring 320 mm. Each disc features a hybrid mounting system using a 50/50 combination of 5 conventional spring loaded floating pin mounts and 5 Brembo T-drive floating mounts.

The Brembo T-drive floating mounts are lighter yet have more contact area between the disc and inner carrier, requiring fewer mounts (10) than conventional mounts alone (12), minimizing the weight gain from the larger discs.

But T-drive mounts can also produce an audible rattle in certain conditions. Conventional spring-loaded pin mounts are slightly heavier and produce a smaller contact area, but are quieter. Using a combination of T-drive and pin mounts reduces rattle as well as requiring fewer mounting points.
"

 

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I'd say start at pads and a really good bleed job, if you are happy to spend a bit more get brake lines and better master cylinder. Better rotors will be better, but for most the standard rotors are really good enough.

You can have the best everything, but if the pads aren't rated to the temp you get them too... doesn't matter, it'll feel like crap/wont work as it should.
 

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It was interesting from the video Phil saying they switch between the Brembo Master and the Stock OEM master at different times for different feel. They don't always use the Brembo Master.

The OEM Master has a 19mm cylinder, and the Brembo Master has a 19mm cylinder, so there the same size. (Phil has said in another video I've seen they use a 19mm Brembo master.)

What's the measurement of the Stock L7/L8/L9 OEM brake level pivot distance in stock form? Can someone measure their lever?

Wonder how much different it is to the Brembo master (18mm / 20mm) adjustable pivot distance.

As a comparison my K2 Stock OEM brake lever has a pivot distance of 26mm...

That's a huge difference of ( 6mm to 8mm ), considering the Brembo only has an pivot distance adjustment range of 2mm......
 

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As a comparison my K2 Stock OEM brake lever has a pivot distance of 26mm...

That's a huge difference of ( 6mm to 8mm ), considering the Brembo only has an pivot distance adjustment range of 2mm......
You can't compare radial and axial master cylinders.

Btw. not your average Brembo M/C on that ASBK Suzuki :)
 

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theres nothing wrong with the brakes, they work extremely well unless you are at the limit where the pads start fading, as far as braking power goes, it's absolutely no issue.
watched them crank out consistant 1:35s around phillip island 100% stock. (FYI the quickest motogp pole lap was 1:28.49 this year)
what you probably don't like is the feel, which is due to the design of the master cylinder.
its been really well covered on the forums, in this forum in particular, have a read through some of the threads, when the bike was first released some of us were concerned there was an issue. but alas, its just a design for road riding comfort.

steps to fix it - replace master cyl
still not happy - braided lines
still not happy - pads
 
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no one has had any issues with the ABS as yet using a different master cylinder... i was concerned about that as well.
 

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2011 CBR 1000RR Tokico monoblock calipers and m/c on my K6. DP brake pads. Goodridge braided lines.

Never had a problem since.
 

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I voted new master cylinder, but I'd go for an accossato jobby. I've had my current one on my last 5 GSXR1000s

Hello, I have a 2020 GSX-R1000R and installed a new Brembo 19MM Corsa Corta brake master cylinder with Vesrah pads, the bike has ABS and SS lines. My son has my 2011 GSX-R750 with the same pads and updated SS lines, no ABS and older Brembo Master. His brakes are day and night compared to mine. He did update his rotor to full floating, 1 size larger than stock, don't know if this made the difference. His braking is unbelievable compared to mine. I know his lines tee down, mine is ran to the right side of the system and then goes over to the left caliper. I'm thinking because of the lines running this way may effect the performance or that the ABS is effecting the performance. A good friend told me to just pull the fuse on the ABS and see the difference. Has anybody had a issue similar to mine. We canyon and track, no cursing the streets, way to dangerous.
Thank You
 
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