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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All,

been reading up on changing the steering damper oil with 15 or 20 wt, but all the posts i get about this is for pre 2009 models,

im unsure what the stock weight is as ill like to go 2.5 or 5 wt up from stock, but the issue is that seeing that the K9 has an electronic valve to adjust the damping based on speed, i cannot just go and do quick 20wt oil change, as when the valve starts closing up due to speed, the damper will probably be solid...:serious:
everyone thinks the stock(non electronic damper) weight is 2.5 or 5wt, but that would probably be different to the electronic ones ...

neither the manual nor google has any easy answers for me...
Does anyone here maybe know what the stock oil weight is for the electronic dampers ?

**edit**
just spoke to my local dealer and according to them the K9 dampers can't be serviced.
that does not make sense ?


Thanks all
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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I don't claim to know but no one else has responded so here goes. I'd bet that the same, or nearly the same, oil is used as in the non-variable dampers. The damper fluid appears to be accessible via either the solenoid or the plugs at either end of the secondary passage, suggest that you try the solenoid first and only remove the plugs if you can't otherwise get the air out after changing the fluid. Try 10 wt first and only go to heavier fluid if you need more damping. You'll only need a couple ounces. Don't know if it's available in SA but one of the best is Red Line Medium Red, because of its very high viscosity index. There will doubtless be a bunch of fooling around to get the air out. You'll just have to keep working at it. Your dealer is ducking the issue because there's no official procedure on it.

You may have to use their 5 wt if the 10 wt proves to be too stiff.

Another thing that can be done is to modify the damping vs speed relationship via a flash.
 

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Hand-Eye Coordinator
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If you feel that you need to change weight in the damper to make the bike more stable, you are wrong. If your bike is unstable, it is your tires and/or suspension that needs fixing, not the damper.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I don't claim to know but no one else has responded so here goes. I'd bet that the same, or nearly the same, oil is used as in the non-variable dampers. The damper fluid appears to be accessible via either the solenoid or the plugs at either end of the secondary passage, suggest that you try the solenoid first and only remove the plugs if you can't otherwise get the air out after changing the fluid. Try 10 wt first and only go to heavier fluid if you need more damping. You'll only need a couple ounces. Don't know if it's available in SA but one of the best is Red Line Medium Red, because of its very high viscosity index. There will doubtless be a bunch of fooling around to get the air out. You'll just have to keep working at it. Your dealer is ducking the issue because there's no official procedure on it.

You may have to use their 5 wt if the 10 wt proves to be too stiff.

Another thing that can be done is to modify the damping vs speed relationship via a flash.
Thanks for the info, was not aware the it could also be adjusted via a flash, will def look into that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you feel that you need to change weight in the damper to make the bike more stable, you are wrong. If your bike is unstable, it is your tires and/or suspension that needs fixing, not the damper.
I agree with you, but currently there is no problem/issue, the bike has done about 80K km, so just thought that its about time to redo / service it a little
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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With regard to reflashing, see this.

I'd think his custom profile would be smoother if it was:
0 0 3 11 23 35 45 50 51 51 51 51 51 51 51 51
But I'm surprised that the max is only 51.
 
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