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Hey guys I have not done an oil/filter change on my K8 1000. Can someone throw out a step by step process of doing this...pictures would be awesome:cheers

I just don't want to start taking fairings off before I even know where to begin. Yes I don't even know what plastic needs to come off to do this. Total newwb :sad here obviously....but I'd greatly appreciate the help
 

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maybe im out of line to say this, but if your going to ride a 1k, shouldn't you know how to at least take care of your bike a lil bit?? ie oil change??
 

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unscrew drain plug, let oil drain. unscrew oil filter, let oil drain. clean up old oil. oil the gasket of the new filter, TIGHTEN TO SPECS. tighten drain plug to specs. fill with specified oil to the specified amount. if you don't know what the specs are, search the forum for the k7/k8 service manual. they have pictures in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
maybe im out of line to say this, but if your going to ride a 1k, shouldn't you know how to at least take care of your bike a lil bit?? ie oil change??
NOPE, I let others be grease monkeys up until now. I don't know how to change the oil in a 600 or 750 either, does that make me 3X stupid:wacko
 

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NOPE, I let others be grease monkeys up until now. I don't know how to change the oil in a 600 or 750 either, does that make me 3X stupid:wacko
yeah, kinda. knowing how to change the oil and filter is pretty essential. hell, the instructions are in the owner's manual!!!

remove fairing
let bike warm up to operating temp
place drain pan under oil drain plug, and remove oil drain plug
let oil drain out, and when it is done, replace drain plug and torque to specs (i think it is 17.5#)
place drain pan under oil filter, and remove oil filter
make sure the oil filter gasket comes off with the filter, and doesn't stay attached to the block
place a bit of new oil on the gasket of the new filter, and tighten to specs (2 full turns after gasket makes contact)
refill crankcase with correct amount of oil (should be around 3.3qts.)
run bike, check for leaks and proper oil level (should be between the 2 lines on the sight glass)
 

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as far as removing the fairing, the best way to figure it out is to do it. the fastners can be a pain in the ass so you may want to go to the dealer and get a few extra ones. they are only like 5-25 cents i think , i forgot. once you do it once you will have it down and problay find yourself taking the fairings off all the time to insepct them or to get a good cleaning. good luck. the post above gave good instructions on the oil change. i recommend castrol r4 superbike oil. but thats just my 2 cents.
 

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also. not being a smart ass, but since you are new at changing the oil, make sure you put the oil in before you start the bike up. it may sound like a wise crack comment but trust me there are people that get anxious and forget to do it.
 

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as far as I know, for the K8 you don't need to remove the fairing to do just an oil and filter change; I did it without. Good luck for the first time.
 

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After you read everyone's posts get a service manual and start reading it .
 

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yeah, you dont have to remove the right fairing, you can stick your hand through the slot and get to the filter but in case you want to get in there an really look around. plus it would be to your benefit to get to know your bike and remove it. good luck.
 

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as far as removing the fairing, the best way to figure it out is to do it. the fastners can be a pain in the ass so you may want to go to the dealer and get a few extra ones. they are only like 5-25 cents i think , i forgot. once you do it once you will have it down and problay find yourself taking the fairings off all the time to insepct them or to get a good cleaning. good luck. the post above gave good instructions on the oil change. i recommend castrol r4 superbike oil. but thats just my 2 cents.
Haha, those fasteners are like $5 a pop down here. Don't waste your money on them. If you know how they work, they can be used for the life of the bike without wearing out.
The ones with just the little dot in the middle, just take a punch and push on the center till it pops through. The fastener will pull right out. When you put it back in, just remove the center pin, push the fastener back in and push the center back in till it's flush. The ones with the big center piece, just slide a small flathead screwdriver inder the center pin and pop it out from the main housing of the fastener. When you replace the fastener, just insert it and push the center piece back in till it's flush! Hth.
 

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The ones with the big center piece, just slide a small flathead screwdriver inder the center pin and pop it out from the main housing of the fastener. When you replace the fastener, just insert it and push the center piece back in till it's flush! Hth.
I've already skewered about 3 of those, when I push them in one of the three prongs misses the inside hole and gets kinked out. The next time I pop it out, its all messed up and won't go in again correctly. Oh well, at least I may be paying for a little Suzuki R&D right?

Just remember to take the three pieces of the left or right fairing off as a single unit. 3 metal bolts on each side, and 3 of the plastic push pins, 1 under the lower cowl connecting them together, and two connecting the oil cooler rock guard to each side of the lower cowl, the rest of the attachments are plastic pegs into rubber grommets.
 

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I only change the filter every second oil change. If I remember correctly, Suzuki says to change the filter only every third oil change. I never take the fairing off for a filter change. I only tighten the filter with my hand. I only use a tool to remove it. Tighten the drain plug finger tight first and then 1/8 of a turn with a spanner. No need for a torque wrench. I have done the job this way for 35 years and never had a problem.
 

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yeah, kinda. knowing how to change the oil and filter is pretty essential. hell, the instructions are in the owner's manual!!!

remove fairing
let bike warm up to operating temp
place drain pan under oil drain plug, and remove oil drain plug
let oil drain out, and when it is done, replace drain plug and torque to specs (i think it is 17.5#)
place drain pan under oil filter, and remove oil filter
make sure the oil filter gasket comes off with the filter, and doesn't stay attached to the block
place a bit of new oil on the gasket of the new filter, and tighten to specs (2 full turns after gasket makes contact)
refill crankcase with correct amount of oil (should be around 3.3qts.)
run bike, check for leaks and proper oil level (should be between the 2 lines on the sight glass)
Wow, after reading this I had to check it out in the manual, and there it is: The engine should always be warm when the oil is changed so the oil will drain easily.

I've always let vehicles sit overnight so the oil is all drained from the motor and sitting in the oil pan. I do this with all my cars and all my bikes.
 

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Wow, after reading this I had to check it out in the manual, and there it is: The engine should always be warm when the oil is changed so the oil will drain easily.

I've always let vehicles sit overnight so the oil is all drained from the motor and sitting in the oil pan. I do this with all my cars and all my bikes.

this is a new one for me too...
 

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I've always let vehicles sit overnight so the oil is all drained from the motor and sitting in the oil pan. I do this with all my cars and all my bikes.
About 1/2 hour wait time does it for me.
 

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Make sure you pay attention to Anthony's advice about checking to make sure the old filter gasket is off. Many guys on here didn't do that & than they are posting trying to figure out why the filter is hard to tighten & is leaking.
 

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Wow, after reading this I had to check it out in the manual, and there it is: The engine should always be warm when the oil is changed so the oil will drain easily.

I've always let vehicles sit overnight so the oil is all drained from the motor and sitting in the oil pan. I do this with all my cars and all my bikes.



You dont have to but the oil will be warmer and flow out a little easier, if you cant get your filters or plugs out without burning the shit out of your hands do NOT run the engine, its not worth the scars.
 

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if you cant get your filters or plugs out without burning the shit out of your hands do NOT run the engine, its not worth the scars.
if you can't get the filter or plug out without burning your hand you shouldn't be working on the bike...

:dunno
 
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