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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi just after some help if anyone can, much appreciated if you can!

I was riding my bike back and all of a sudden it just cut out on me, I’ve pulled over managed to get her going again but the bike kept on spluttering/chocking whilst I was trying to get back, it cut out again but still I managed to get it back home, I’ve searched the web for information and gone back to try and see what the problem might be but this time the bike wouldn’t turn over (starter motor is trying to crank) but fuel pump won’t engage (no noise when I turn the ignition on) so it won’t start. The CHEC notification is up and when I switched the dealer button on it came up with -c00 after that I haven’t been able to get any codes up at all.

I’ve checked the fuses on the side of the bike and there all okay

I watched a video on the pump relays and I can’t seem to feel a click when I’m turning the key over does that sound like it’s just the relay to any of you guys or could it be the ECU.

ive read a threw threads on the harness being a issue so could that have anything to do with the pump not engaging

any help will be massively appreciated
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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Check your battery. It or your charging system may be failing. Measure the voltage between the O/W and B/W leads at the dealer mode connector when the ignition and engine stop switches are on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Check your battery. It or your charging system may be failing. Measure the voltage between the O/W and B/W leads at the dealer mode connector when the ignition and engine stop switches are on.
Thanks for the information, I’ve drained the battery off now by trying to get it to kick over so much, I had the battery hooked up to my mates bike so get some juice back in it when I checked the relays which is how I know there was no clicking. would doing what you’ve said work with the battery being so low?
 

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Captain Obvious ... because obviously it’s obvious
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Have you tried proposing to it? Then it would be engaged
 

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All it's doing is checking what voltage is being supplied to the ECM. So it will work at any battery condition and is an indicator of the battery/wiring condition. However I now sense that yours is a UK model with an immobilizer. On it the dealer mode colors will be O/G and B/W. If there's good voltage, say 12 to 14 volts, you could also measure the voltage between the R and B/Br leads on the nearby eight pin SAP connector. It should be close to 5 volts and is a rough indication that the ECM is working.

CHEC means that the cluster is not getting information from the ECM, normally because the ECM isn't getting power.

Yours sounds like it's slowly going bad, which is normally an indication of a failing battery or charging system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I’ve connected another battery and it’s now brought up the fault codes c42 (cooling fan relay) c60 (ignition switch) my bike is a uk model so it’s activated the immobiliser, is it just the original key that deactivates it? I had two keys with the bike and when I put the one I currently carry with me in there it didn’t rid it. Anything else it could be other than the key?
Thanks for the help again
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update

got the spare key and that’s sorted the immobiliser

changed the pump relay for a different one and the pumps still not priming

if the pumps burnt out would it register as the relay failing

I’ve tried testing the cables but I’m not to clued up on the electrical front, but I didn’t get any information at all from trying the cables on the dealer mode like you said to try
 

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"I didn’t get any information at all from trying the cables on the dealer mode like you said to try"
That doesn't make any sense. All you're doing is measuring some voltages. There has to be some sort of reading and you're running blind if you can't do that. If you don't have a multimeter or don't know how to use it, you need to get someone involved who does.

There's a way to check things at the fuel pump relay and to turn the pump on at the relay. But you're not qualified for that if you can't measure voltages. The fuel pump and the cooling fan are controlled by identical relays. It sounds like there isn't enough voltage to turn either on.

Something's fishy if one key works but another, presumably for this bike, doesn't. Unfortunately, I don't know if the bike was originally supplied with two identical keys, including the RFID, or if the ECM has multiple registered IDs. The service manual indicates that the number of registered IDs is given by the number of indicator light flashes when the key is turned on. But that's advanced stuff that has never been discussed here.

It's important that you have at least two working keys, a normally used key plus a spare that is kept in a safe/secure place. If you only have one working key and it is lost or goes bad, you might have to replace the ECM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah I’m definitely not qualified enough I’m just searching the web for videos after the advice you give, not good I know, think I’m gonna just have to leave it till the new year when the mechanics are open again! Really appreciate the info/help you’ve given man!! Thank you.
 
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