Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com banner

1 - 20 of 46 Posts

·
Premium Member
K6 GSXR 750 Bmc race filter cat delete voodoo slip, pcv, tre. K7GSXR1k yoshi fullsystem
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey y’all, I’m kind of new to this forum and just wanted to say thanks in advance for the wealth of knowledge everyone on here has been able to provide.

Here’s the problem:
Just bought a k7 Gsxr 1000 last night. 16k miles, full yoshimura exhaust. When I turn the bike on and prime the fuel pump, fuel is leaking out of the fuel rail. I will provide a video to show what is going on. No Fault indicator light. Put her in dealer mode and C-00 shows so the tps is calibrated where it needs to be. I’m wondering if it could just be an o ring that needs to be fixed, or injector/injectors. Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,065 Posts
It seems like you have it figured out. Thats the first step. Now take off the tank to get a closer inspection.
 

·
You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
Joined
·
8,465 Posts
I couldn't tell from the video where the leak was. The O-rings on the T-joint seem like obvious places to suspect. Replace them if there's any question. However they shouldn't spontaneously start to leak. It suggests that someone has disassembled the fuel rail in the recent past. Also I could be off base but there seems to be a lot of exposed insulation as if a protective wrap has been removed. Check some of the pics in the service manual, ex. 5-14 and 5-15, for comparison.

The fuel rail was redesigned for K7 and has fewer parts than before and is easier to remove. The screws that attach it to the throttle body tend to stick.

Note that a leak that catches fire could easily burn the bike to the ground.
 

·
Premium Member
K6 GSXR 750 Bmc race filter cat delete voodoo slip, pcv, tre. K7GSXR1k yoshi fullsystem
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I couldn't tell from the video where the leak was. The O-rings on the T-joint seem like obvious places to suspect. Replace them if there's any question. However they shouldn't spontaneously start to leak. It suggests that someone has disassembled the fuel rail in the recent past. Also I could be off base but there seems to be a lot of exposed insulation as if a protective wrap has been removed. Check some of the pics in the service manual, ex. 5-14 and 5-15, for comparison.

The fuel rail was redesigned for K7 and has fewer parts than before and is easier to remove. The screws that attach it to the throttle body tend to stick.

Note that a leak that catches fire could easily burn the bike to the ground.
Thank you for taking the time to look at my post and help me out. I really appreciate it. I’m used to working on my k6 750 and the k7 1000 seems a lot easier to work on as far as getting to the fuel rail/throttle bodies
 

·
Premium Member
K6 GSXR 750 Bmc race filter cat delete voodoo slip, pcv, tre. K7GSXR1k yoshi fullsystem
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I couldn't tell from the video where the leak was. The O-rings on the T-joint seem like obvious places to suspect. Replace them if there's any question. However they shouldn't spontaneously start to leak. It suggests that someone has disassembled the fuel rail in the recent past. Also I could be off base but there seems to be a lot of exposed insulation as if a protective wrap has been removed. Check some of the pics in the service manual, ex. 5-14 and 5-15, for comparison.

The fuel rail was redesigned for K7 and has fewer parts than before and is easier to remove. The screws that attach it to the throttle body tend to stick.

Note that a leak that catches fire could easily burn the bike to the ground.
So when I remove the fuel rail, are you saying the screws that attach them to the Throttle body will more than likely give me some resistance? If it is an o-ring issue, Do you think an o ring off my k6 750 fuel rail might work? Sorry for all the questions.
 

·
Premium Member
K6 GSXR 750 Bmc race filter cat delete voodoo slip, pcv, tre. K7GSXR1k yoshi fullsystem
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I couldn't tell from the video where the leak was. The O-rings on the T-joint seem like obvious places to suspect. Replace them if there's any question. However they shouldn't spontaneously start to leak. It suggests that someone has disassembled the fuel rail in the recent past. Also I could be off base but there seems to be a lot of exposed insulation as if a protective wrap has been removed. Check some of the pics in the service manual, ex. 5-14 and 5-15, for comparison.

The fuel rail was redesigned for K7 and has fewer parts than before and is easier to remove. The screws that attach it to the throttle body tend to stick.

Note that a leak that catches fire could easily burn the bike to the ground.
Yeah so I see what you’re saying about the screws sticking on the throttle body. I was able to remove one of them but the others aren’t seeming to budge. Any advice on how to get them out without stripping the screws?
 

·
You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
Joined
·
8,465 Posts
We had a thread about those screws three years ago here. The lead pic is gone but here it is:

My suspicion now is that there's some sort of reaction between the plating on the screw and the TB that causes it to corrode in place. Something similar seems to happen with the screws that attach the headers to the head. If push comes to shove you may have to remove the entire TB and then remove the fuel rail from it. I'm now suspicious that some low strength Loctite may actually help by acting as a thread lubricant. I replaced the eight used on my K6 with titanium as they had a hex key drive. But it was a big hassle custom fabricating the screw's step. In hindsight I wish I'd used some with a Torx drive.

I'm inclined to recommend against reusing an O-ring from another bike. They're pricey for an O-ring but the T-joint only uses two. Put a thin layer of grease on them to minimize tearing during insertion.

The Bosch P2D105 bit seems to have been replaced by the 46005 and 45913. I don't know why it's so hard to buy a simple bit like this.
 

·
Premium Member
K6 GSXR 750 Bmc race filter cat delete voodoo slip, pcv, tre. K7GSXR1k yoshi fullsystem
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
We had a thread about those screws three years ago here. The lead pic is gone but here it is:

My suspicion now is that there's some sort of reaction between the plating on the screw and the TB that causes it to corrode in place. Something similar seems to happen with the screws that attach the headers to the head. If push comes to shove you may have to remove the entire TB and then remove the fuel rail from it. I'm now suspicious that some low strength Loctite may actually help by acting as a thread lubricant. I replaced the eight used on my K6 with titanium as they had a hex key drive. But it was a big hassle custom fabricating the screw's step. In hindsight I wish I'd used some with a Torx drive.

I'm inclined to recommend against reusing an O-ring from another bike. They're pricey for an O-ring but the T-joint only uses two. Put a thin layer of grease on them to minimize tearing during insertion.

The Bosch P2D105 bit seems to have been replaced by the 46005 and 45913. I don't know why it's so hard to buy a simple bit like this.
Yeah I scoured the forums and found a similar thread like you mentioned in your previous post. I’ve removed 3 out of 4 screws. I used a ph2 Phillips on a 3/8 socket wrench, applied an ample amount of torque to the screw and hit the back of the socket with a hammer. Just this last screw is really jammed up. So you’re suggesting using some Loctite (blue?) to loosen up the threads? How would I get the loctite into the threads to loosen them up?
573606
E5BE5521-03BA-405B-8DC4-739CBF10EC92.jpeg
 

·
Premium Member
K6 GSXR 750 Bmc race filter cat delete voodoo slip, pcv, tre. K7GSXR1k yoshi fullsystem
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Here is another pic
573607
 

·
You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
Joined
·
8,465 Posts
No, Loctite when you reinstall the screws may hopefully make it easier next time.

Your cammed out drive is why I recommended the bit with the ribs. They are much less prone to cam-out. There are impact drivers that may do the job, but be careful that you don't damage the TB. Maybe you can get some heat to the boss on the TB. Maybe you can cut a slot in the head with a Dremel's abrasive wheel. In a worst case you might have to drill out the head to get the rail off (best done with the TB removed). With it out of the way there should be plenty of meat left on the screw to grab onto.

The wiring to the injectors looks "cleaner" in your recent pics than your video suggested. But some sort of organizing sheath can be seen in the second pic on 5-14 that I don't see on yours.

P.S. Loctite 222 is a low strength product that I tend to put on all sorts of screws.
You seem to do a good job of marking things so as to get them properly back together. I tend to write on white connectors with colored markers.
 

·
Premium Member
K6 GSXR 750 Bmc race filter cat delete voodoo slip, pcv, tre. K7GSXR1k yoshi fullsystem
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
So I picked these up at Walmart. Think they will work? I’m planning on using a 20v impact to try and get them out. I’m thinking the “torsion zone” bits will help free the jammed up screw. The previous owner definitely made a mess of the wiring so I close labeled all of the primary/secondary injectors. Thanks again for the wealth of information
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
277 Posts
Usually you work on your bike when it's cold.
I find, heat on things being dismantled works well, especially when it's cold outside. I use a heat gun and a hot, spotlight, to get everything warm. A hair dryer will do.
WD spray.
Any screws that come loose, need to be re-tightened to take the load off the difficult ones.
Also, like car wheel nuts, if you undo four, it makes the fifth one very tight.
 

·
Premium Member
K6 GSXR 750 Bmc race filter cat delete voodoo slip, pcv, tre. K7GSXR1k yoshi fullsystem
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
So I tried all of the methods y’all suggested and the screw is beyond stripped. I even tried to tap it out and that didn’t work either. What I ended up doing is dremeling the head off the screw so I can pull the rail off the TB. Hopefully once I put the o rings on she’ll be in good health! Thanks for your time and feedback y’all.
 
  • Like
Reactions: craigfer63

·
You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
Joined
·
8,465 Posts
It tends to be too late once a Philips slot cams out. Some searching indicated that those ribbed bits are called ACR bits. Dremeling will do the job but you need to be careful that you don't damage the rail in the process. The pics in the service manual suggested that there was enough room around the screw head to cut a slot in it with an abrasive cutting wheel and use a large slotted screwdriver. In any event, I gather that the rail is off.
 

·
Premium Member
K6 GSXR 750 Bmc race filter cat delete voodoo slip, pcv, tre. K7GSXR1k yoshi fullsystem
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
It tends to be too late once a Philips slot cams out. Some searching indicated that those ribbed bits are called ACR bits. Dremeling will do the job but you need to be careful that you don't damage the rail in the process. The pics in the service manual suggested that there was enough room around the screw head to cut a slot in it with an abrasive cutting wheel and use a large slotted screwdriver. In any event, I gather that the rail is off.
The rail is almost off. I used my dremel to cut through the head of screw so I can pull the rail off the injectors & TB. I also noticed that the previous owner cut through part of the plastic block on the rail due to the corroded screw. I was wondering if you knew anything about billet aftermarket fuel rails? I found one that costs $72.79. I will include a pic of the new rail in this post. I also noticed the previous owner deleted the secondary butterflies too.
573634


2CEAA36F-F89A-43FE-A4EB-E5478652F6B4.jpeg
 

·
Premium Member
K6 GSXR 750 Bmc race filter cat delete voodoo slip, pcv, tre. K7GSXR1k yoshi fullsystem
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
So I finally got the fuel rail off and the o rings were right where they were supposed to be on the t joint. I don’t see any visible holes or anything inside the fuel rail that would suggest the rail is broken. I’m stumped 🤔. I’ll include pictures.
573635
573636
573637
578C205F-8D66-421C-A143-0A36BC3F0EEE.jpeg 9A6F6A50-4E25-4FFA-BEFF-3778C0C5939C.jpeg A14BD8FF-F708-4AF5-9ED7-A3FC54FA25AB.jpeg
573638
573639
 

·
Premium Member
K6 GSXR 750 Bmc race filter cat delete voodoo slip, pcv, tre. K7GSXR1k yoshi fullsystem
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
It tends to be too late once a Philips slot cams out. Some searching indicated that those ribbed bits are called ACR bits. Dremeling will do the job but you need to be careful that you don't damage the rail in the process. The pics in the service manual suggested that there was enough room around the screw head to cut a slot in it with an abrasive cutting wheel and use a large slotted screwdriver. In any event, I gather that the rail is off.
Any advice on what could be the issue? The o rings on the injectors look good too
 

·
You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
Joined
·
8,465 Posts
Is there any chance that the leak was where the fuel line clips onto the T-joint? There's an O-ring there too. Your pic suggests that the branch into the T-joint isn't square with the run. Is that just the pic or might the branch be bent? My next suggestion was to check the O-rings at the 45° adapters. But you've already done that. You might have to reassemble and try to identify exactly where the leak is. Some Loctite or a bit of antiseize ought to make things much easier.

"noticed that the previous owner cut through part of the plastic block on the rail due to the corroded screw"
What corroded screw? It sounds like you've found evidence of previous stuck screws and attempts to remove them. Was it the same screw that you had to drill out?

I'm unfamiliar with that aftermarket rail. It will need a fuel line connection to it and seems unnecessary, particularly since we don't know that the OEM rail is faulty.

Are only the butterflies missing or is the secondary actuator also gone. I thought that there would be error codes generated on powerup as the actuator cycles between full open and full closed. Are the mounting screws for the butterflies also gone? Healtech sells a secondary eliminator but I'm not familiar with it. In general, I'd like to see the secondary there. TheGeek repairs the actuators so there's a chance that he might have the butterflies or know where to get them.
 

·
Premium Member
K6 GSXR 750 Bmc race filter cat delete voodoo slip, pcv, tre. K7GSXR1k yoshi fullsystem
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Is there any chance that the leak was where the fuel line clips onto the T-joint? There's an O-ring there too. Your pic suggests that the branch into the T-joint isn't square with the run. Is that just the pic or might the branch be bent? My next suggestion was to check the O-rings at the 45° adapters. But you've already done that. You might have to reassemble and try to identify exactly where the leak is. Some Loctite or a bit of antiseize ought to make things much easier.

"noticed that the previous owner cut through part of the plastic block on the rail due to the corroded screw"
What corroded screw? It sounds like you've found evidence of previous stuck screws and attempts to remove them. Was it the same screw that you had to drill out?

I'm unfamiliar with that aftermarket rail. It will need a fuel line connection to it and seems unnecessary, particularly since we don't know that the OEM rail is faulty.

Are only the butterflies missing or is the secondary actuator also gone. I thought that there would be error codes generated on powerup as the actuator cycles between full open and full closed. Are the mounting screws for the butterflies also gone? Healtech sells a secondary eliminator but I'm not familiar with it. In general, I'd like to see the secondary there. TheGeek repairs the actuators so there's a chance that he might have the butterflies or know where to get them.
the STVA is still there, but the plates have been removed from the rod connected to the actuator. No FI light. I put it in dealer mode just to find -C00 so the tps is calibrated per service manual. No C28/c29 code.

I noticed there was a different screw and evidence of someone having to dremel the head off off the old one to pull the rail off the TB. So there is supposed to be an o ring on the run in addition to the fuel line?
 

·
Premium Member
K6 GSXR 750 Bmc race filter cat delete voodoo slip, pcv, tre. K7GSXR1k yoshi fullsystem
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Is there any chance that the leak was where the fuel line clips onto the T-joint? There's an O-ring there too. Your pic suggests that the branch into the T-joint isn't square with the run. Is that just the pic or might the branch be bent? My next suggestion was to check the O-rings at the 45° adapters. But you've already done that. You might have to reassemble and try to identify exactly where the leak is. Some Loctite or a bit of antiseize ought to make things much easier.

"noticed that the previous owner cut through part of the plastic block on the rail due to the corroded screw"
What corroded screw? It sounds like you've found evidence of previous stuck screws and attempts to remove them. Was it the same screw that you had to drill out?

I'm unfamiliar with that aftermarket rail. It will need a fuel line connection to it and seems unnecessary, particularly since we don't know that the OEM rail is faulty.

Are only the butterflies missing or is the secondary actuator also gone. I thought that there would be error codes generated on powerup as the actuator cycles between full open and full closed. Are the mounting screws for the butterflies also gone? Healtech sells a secondary eliminator but I'm not familiar with it. In general, I'd like to see the secondary there. TheGeek repairs the actuators so there's a chance that he might have the butterflies or know where to get them.
So I figured out where the leak was coming from! It was an o ring that busted on one of the injectors. Sounds kind of gross, but I Put my mouth on the end of the rail and blew some air in there and noticed the leak was coming from that injector. can I use one of the o rings I bought for the t joint on the injector with thefaulty o ring?
573640
D94AF8D9-6610-4CDE-8125-9E4595112B71.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: craigfer63
1 - 20 of 46 Posts
Top