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Discussion Starter #1
I was setting the sag on my K7 for the first time using the popular L1-(L2+L3)/2 method. The rear sag was a no-brainer, came out as it should. The front however, gave me a little hassle. The L2 and L3 measurments are consistantly 10mm apart for one another. I did the same measurement a few times just to make sure it wasn't my error. Also tried different preload ranges and the numbers are again, consistantly 10mm apart.

Just wondering if other K7 owners are experiencing the same thing with the front end. If so, then these front forks have a serious amount of friction. All the other bikes I've measured the L2 and L3 are within 5mm.
 

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I was setting the sag on my K7 for the first time using the popular L1-(L2+L3)/2 method. The rear sag was a no-brainer, came out as it should. The front however, gave me a little hassle. The L2 and L3 measurments are consistantly 10mm apart for one another. I did the same measurement a few times just to make sure it wasn't my error. Also tried different preload ranges and the numbers are again, consistantly 10mm apart.

Just wondering if other K7 owners are experiencing the same thing with the front end. If so, then these front forks have a serious amount of friction. All the other bikes I've measured the L2 and L3 are within 5mm.

How do you use this method???
 

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What about: ((Static up) - (Static down))/2 - ((Rider up) - (Rider down))/2

If there is a big difference between static sag after you've pushed up (and settled) vs. static sag after you've pushed down (and settled), then I would agree that stiction is an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
What about: ((Static up) - (Static down))/2 - ((Rider up) - (Rider down))/2

If there is a big difference between static sag after you've pushed up (and settled) vs. static sag after you've pushed down (and settled), then I would agree that stiction is an issue.

(102.5 - 95.5)/2 - (93 - 83)/2 = 11.5mm
I guess that's not too bad...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I agree that the front spring are too stiff for a lighter weight rider. The front end felt the best with 5 lines showing on the preload adjuster. And it didn't feel too soft either.

The difference in sag between 5 lines showing and 3 lines showing was only 2mm. Atleast for me...
 

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whoa.. interesting information here.. does this also apply to the k7 600? cause i'm only 150lbs (w/o gear)... when setting up the bike we found that the front was too soft and bouncing a lot, and the rear was coming up a lot faster then the front. another thing I found rather interesting, is my right front fork is showing signs of a bad seal or a soon to be bad seal (oil on the fork). I only have 7k miles and rarely push it. I guess time to take it to the stealership i have full warranty still. Opinions? </hijack>
 

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Greetings all, hope everyones having fun on da bikes!

Just thought I'd register just to ask one question...although I feel myself being pulled towards the thou' at some point!

Anywho, my girlfriends gotta a 600 K7 and she really doesn't weigh very much. I see eviltwin-05 was the first to point out that 175lb or less, ultimately wasn't fat enough! :biggrin All I was wondering was, is there a place on the internet that states what the minimum rider weight is for certain Gixers?

I'm going over to her's tonight to sort her sag out...we went riding for the first time in a long while recently and she rode in front. After I saw her skitting about, the first thing I said when we stopped was, 'we need to sort your sag out!".:biggrin

Oh, here she is BTW:





Cheers!

Chris

She's computer illiterate - so I'm on here instead! :shifty
 

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My chains too tight....
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No offense to you or your girlfriend, its just chics on bikes in general. But I got a bit of a chubby.
 

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I did the tie wrap method on the forks. I'd go out and brake hard enough where the rear wheel would lift off the ground. Check how far the tie wrap traveled(which was almost bottomed out) and added preload till I noticed it not moving as far. I was close to maxing the preload so I have my forks resprung and valved.
 

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Many K7's have a shit load of stiction from what I have seen. I intitially wrote it off to some factory alignment issue and since I was going to swap springs decided to wait till I did it. When I had the forks apart I was amazed at just how sticky these bastards are. With the springs out you can lift the entire fork by the outer tube and the inner tube does not budge!! That is crazy stiction. Any other year I have worked on the inner would just slip right out.

The other thing is many K7's have a stiffer spring then what race-tech or many post here based on some spec. They are not near .95-.97. I actually measured mine at 1.06 and 1.07 respectively. And that explained why the max sag i could ever get was 23 mm or so.

I put in some R1 springs (direct swap due to same length without having to fuck with spacer cut down) @ .92 or so and the bike actually turns now versus steering like a truck and running wide everywhere. I now have a reasonalbe sag of 36mm between 3-4 lines showing. Basically ideal for my preference.

My rear spring is pretty much spot on for my 175lbs.

Another note is my forks where overfilled with oil. I ended up taking some oil out to get to the 125 mm spec. And to be honest, that may be a touch much if you are lighter. I may take out a little bit (maybe 5-10mm) to get the bottom of the travel where I want it.

The bike is soooo much nicer to ride now. Worth the swap without question.
 

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I am all the way out on the preload at this point....a little over 200 lbs with full gear on. Do need to messure sag again since not adding in the stiction factor the first time at some point but from the way things are looking might need to take the forks out to check oil levels etc.
 
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