[Shane wallis]

Hi guys I need to change plugs on my k7 and desided to give the throttle body a clean, after assembly it gave me a check engine on the cluster and would not start, no prime on fuil pump and no response on the throttle body, I started by checking tilde senser then kill switch, clutch switch, fuses relys and all the plugs where I worked, I then decided to get it on to a diagnostic witch it was not able to get any reading of, the guy then checked it of the bike and managed to get power to it but could not find any soft where off iti then tried it on dealer mode an still Nutting. I can't understand how cleaning the throttle body and swoping plugs could cause this
My question is dose this sound like a faulty ecu or what am I missing?

 

[peter079]

You are stuck on CHEC?
Maybe you forget to connect up something. Like the Neutral switch or Kick stand switch or Kill switch?

 

[Shane wallis]

I opened up the kill switch and check it, test the stand switch to tilt sensor all good fuses good and all plugs related is also good

 

[SparkyMJ]

It clearly happened while you were in there doing the work if it worked before you did the maintenance and now it doesn't after.

The CHEC on the dash should only be because the killswitch is set to 'not run'. Even if the switch is working, I think there are specified wires to the ECU you should be able to trace with a multimeter, so maybe you just snagged a wire while doing some work.

Check all the areas you bumped/touched/plugged/handled during the plug change and throttle body cleaning. And check your ground connections, especially between the dash and main harness, and between the RH controls and main harness.

Hope this helps.

-Mike

 

[peter079]

Do you have the Green Neutral Light?

 

[Shane wallis]

It clearly happened while you were in there doing the work if it worked before you did the maintenance and now it doesn't after.

The CHEC on the dash should only be because the killswitch is set to 'not run'. Even if the switch is working, I think there are specified wires to the ECU you should be able to trace with a multimeter, so maybe you just snagged a wire while doing some work.

Check all the areas you bumped/touched/plugged/handled during the plug change and throttle body cleaning. And check your ground connections, especially between the dash and main harness, and between the RH controls and main harness.

Hope this helps.

-Mike

Thanks so much for your help Mike I must of moved something so I will go through the it again,I did sespect the kill switch so I checked it on the switch it self and not the harness, wat gets me is that I don't get any fit codes and no response in dealier mode, Kan the kill switch cause the zero response from the ecu?

 

[Shane wallis]

Do you have the Green Neutral Light?

Yes I did check it work's find shifting in and out of neutral

 

[BillV]

With the ignition on, measure the voltage at the O/G lead on the dealer mode switch (O/W if not an immobilizer model). It's power to the ECM and should be battery voltage. Then measure the R lead on the nearby eight pin Suzuki Access Port. Should be 5 volts.

 

[Shane wallis]

How would I know if my ecu is faulty

With the ignition on, measure the voltage at the O/G lead on the dealer mode switch (O/W if not an immobilizer model). It's power to the ECM and should be battery voltage. Then measure the R lead on the nearby eight pin Suzuki Access Port. Should be 5 volts.

Thank you for your help it's a much appreciated I did manage to find the issue, it was a fault on the kill switch wiring so now the throttle body is responding but fuil pump is not priming, the relay is responding and i am getting battery voltage on black wire (constant) and power on the orange and black for the duration of the rely, I also got the pump to work when I put power directly, but when I plug the pump in there is no more power on the wires and no response from the pump, l got c00 in dealier mode
Any thoughts it's really odd

 

[BillV]

You'll have to check as I may be hallucinating but I seem to recall that the three pin connector to the fuel pump is the same as one used elsewhere, like to the gear position sensor. Perhaps you mixed them up. Check that the wire colors on both sides agree with the wiring diagram in the service manual. Note that many fault codes are cleared if you turn the ignition off and back on. Beyond that, check the voltages on the fuel pump relay connector leads (with relay installed). R//Bl should always be at battery voltage. O/W should be at battery voltage when the ignition is on. Y/R is power to the pump (and injectors) so it should be at battery voltage whenever the pump is running. Y/B is the relay control signal from the ECM. It should be the same as O/W (battery voltage) when the pump isn't running/relay open and low, maybe 1 volt or less, when the pump is running/relay closed.

 

[craigfer63]

Yes, the three pin plug for the fuel pump, has Y/R, B/W, R/B wires. The R/B wire changes to B/Lg at this connector. There is another connector right there, under the tank, the same three pin plug, with different color wires.

 

[Shane wallis]

Yes, the three pin plug for the fuel pump, has Y/R, B/W, R/B wires. The R/B wire changes to B/Lg at this connector. There is another connector right there, under the tank, the same three pin plug, with different color wires.
View attachment 585995

Thank you guys so much for your help, I checked all the wires and thay look good I got a diagnostic computer on it yesterday and it gave me zero codes we also checked gear sensor, tilde over sensor, stand switch, kill switch and relays I also remove the fuil pump and stuck 12v on it and it works when it is removed from is it's unit. my key light olso oges of when I switch the bike on, the throttle body alos racks, if I brig the fuil pump to prime then the bike will start just right but will not seply fuil when plugged in to the bike
WHAT AM I MISSING 😭😭😭​

 

[craigfer63]

Clutch Switch ?

 

[BillV]

Please go through your post #12 and correct the spelling & grammar (somewhere around 20 places). I'm normally not a stickler about such things but yours is so far out of control as to make it easy to misinterpret what you're saying.

 

[Shane wallis]

Clutch Switch ?

Also checked the clutch switch
I do get battery voltage

Please go through your post #12 and correct the spelling & grammar (somewhere around 20 places). I'm normally not a stickler about such things but yours is so far out of control as to make it easy to misinterpret what you're saying.

Sorry if my
dyslexia
Bothers you it's not I'm my control

 

[Shane wallis]

I managed to get correct the problem it seems to have be the 2 wire's in the fuel pump that was swop over, this is how I found it after took it in to the local bike bike shop that did not manage to get it running I now have the Green wire on the left and brown on the right side and the bike is running sorry for the inconvenience of my spelling 🙈🙉🙊

 

[craigfer63]

Good work, did you have the Fuel Pump out for cleaning ?
You didn't mention this in your first post.
Wire colors are different to Workshop Manual (R and B) So easy mistake.
Fuel Flow test may have found this.

 

[BillV]

As I recall there's a shorter ground lead that attaches to a rail that the pump/motor mounts on. I think it has a ring terminal on it's end, so it should be fairly obvious where it goes. Then there are two longer leads that run down to the electrical feedthrough and have the associated mating terminal. One comes from the pump and the other comes from the level sensor. Colors aside, the origin of each should again make it fairly obvious which is which. The colors of the leads on the other side of the feedthrough determine which pin the two leads attach to, i.e. the one from the pump goes to the pin with the Y/R lead and the one from the sensor goes to the pin with the R/B lead. I wouldn't expect the motor to run if they are swapped. That would send 12 volts to the sensor for the three seconds when the pump is supposed to be priming. I'm not sure but it might blow a fuse or fry the sensor if the fuel level is very low.

 

[peter079]

A whole heap of human error, right from the beginning.

Don't go back to that shop any time soon.

 

[craigfer63]

First time I dismantled my K7 Fuel Pump, I refitted these wires, according to the bends in the wires.
The manual is ambiguous on the color of these wires.
Next time I have it apart, I will color code these two wires.