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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys

How would one know it's the ECU that is fried? Is there some test one can do to confirm that it's gone, before buying a replacement for nothing?

The problem is that the bike blows the 10A ignition fuse, when starting it.

There's a new battery and rectifier. I've checked the connections, and they seem to be good. Every now and then, only when I have re-connected the connections, then the bike will start up as per normal and idle without an issue, for a few minutes. A bit of revving and it still runs fine. Then the fuse will blow just blow. Once it has blown, every other replacement fuse will also blow.

People who have reported similar issues here, seem to have been to replace the ECU/ECM, but I'd like to be able to confirm it's the problem before replacing it.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Workshop Manual will walk you all the tests. Study the Wiring Diagram and trace the Ignition fuse Wiring.
This Ignition Fuse covers a lot of systems. Like Turn Signal, and Side Stand Switch Relay, Speed sensor, Gear Position Sensor, Clutch Switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Workshop Manual will walk you all the tests. Study the Wiring Diagram and trace the Ignition fuse Wiring.
This Ignition Fuse covers a lot of systems. Like Turn Signal, and Side Stand Switch Relay, Speed sensor, Gear Position Sensor, Clutch Switch.
I'll go over the Self-Diagnosis Function section. First port of call seems to check dealer codes. I'll try that out and see how that goes.


On an unrelated note, does the site not send email notifications when someone responds to your post?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok so here is an update:

I went with a small piece of wire to connect the dealer mode thingy. With the blown fuse, I connected the wire, turned the bike on and the only thing that showed was CHEC, with the red light on.
I tried re-adjusting the wire, and even tried a couple of other wires, but no codes were shown.
I tried this several times, until the headlight was dimmed when I turned it on - it had been standing for a while so I thought it best to charge the (new) battery and return with a "better" wire.

This turned out to be my better wire:
Computer keyboard Input device Gadget Bumper Office equipment



I then changed the blown fuse for a fresh one.
I turned the bike on and I got error code -C00:
Speedometer Car Odometer Vehicle Motor vehicle


Since the bike actually primed this time, I wanted to see if it would actually start and it did. It idled for like 15 seconds and then blew the fuse, and returned to just showing CHEC with no error code:
Speedometer Car Odometer Tachometer Gauge


Here are a couple of interesting things I've noted:
1) The bike is on the side-stand. I had straightened out the handles so I could get a clear view of the dash. While it idled for those few seconds, the vibration caused the steering to go back into the locked position (slippery garage floor). It was in that process that it blew the fuse.
2) The issue initially happened when I came from a ride and was literally about to park the bike in the garage. I had to turn left to get into the garage and the initial fuse blowing happened.
3) It doesn't show which gear it's in. It will just light up neutral, but the actual gear will not show, even if I push the bike and change gears.

Whew! That's a lot😅

Hopefully someone can shed some further light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
So I checked in the manual and they have this little section in it:
Font Screenshot Terrestrial plant Number Rectangle



They mention checking the speedometer coupler. I tried looking up what that is and this is the closest I could find:
Font Terrestrial plant Event Document Brand


I'm not particularly sure where the coupler indicated by (1) is.

While trying to Google it, I saw a video of a guy with some electrical issue on his dash, which was due to the big wiring harness connector, near the front wheel, having a burnt out connection. I'll try checking that out as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
As @TwistedMister mentioned, it seems to be a connector issue. I at least hope this is the only problematic connector.

This is what the main harness connector looks like:
Automotive lighting Body jewelry Electric blue Circle Rim

Automotive tire Gas Electrical wiring Wire Cable


It seems to have some gooey orange substance that has seeped into some of the pin holes.

Anyone have an idea on how to go about cleaning this thing?
 

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That's nasty

Get a pin pusher and take out one at a time to clean (or be heroic and get the wiring diagram and get them all out for cleaning at the same time 😋 )

As for cleaning contacts,.... contact cleaner and a toothbrush?
perhaps some sandpaper/steel wool for the heavily pitted connectors?
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That's nasty

Get a pin pusher and take out one at a time to clean (or be heroic and get the wiring diagram and get them all out for cleaning at the same time 😋 )

As for cleaning contacts,.... contact cleaner and a toothbrush?
perhaps some sandpaper/steel wool for the heavily pitted connectors?
I'll look into those suggestions. Thanks!
 

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That connector had a translucent vinyl shroud over it. Is it missing? +1 on nasty. You could easily have a short at the connector. Given it's condition, you're probably better off to remove all the contacts, inspect them for corrosion, and replace any that are bad or iffy. You can clean corroded contacts and get them working but they'll tend to fail again in fairly short order. Replacement contacts are readily available, though you'll have to learn how to remove them without damaging the wires and how to crimp. Make a drawing/table of what position has which lead. You can deal with most by just working on one side at a time as most, but not all, colors are the same on both sides. Pics will also help. The service manual lists the wire colors but not where they are on many (most?) connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That connector had a translucent vinyl shroud over it. Is it missing? +1 on nasty. You could easily have a short at the connector. Given it's condition, you're probably better off to remove all the contacts, inspect them for corrosion, and replace any that are bad or iffy. You can clean corroded contacts and get them working but they'll tend to fail again in fairly short order. Replacement contacts are readily available, though you'll have to learn how to remove them without damaging the wires and how to crimp. Make a drawing/table of what position has which lead. You can deal with most by just working on one side at a time as most, but not all, colors are the same on both sides. Pics will also help. The service manual lists the wire colors but not where they are on many (most?) connectors.
The shroud was inside out - if that makes any sense. So it wasn't even covering the connector. I'm not sure how that happened.

Doing them one at a time will probably be best. I'll need to find some time to go through all the contacts and replace what needs to be replaced.

Thanks for the input @BillV
 

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The issue with one at a time is the deposits on the connector body. An alternate is to buy new bodies and swap the pins into them. They aren't very expensive. Don't know about South Africa but here's the female.

"The shroud was inside out"
It was rolled back as part of disconnecting the connector at some time in the past - and the idiot (apparently not you) didn't bother to put it back after reconnecting. That changed it from an inferior weather seal to none.
 

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As @TwistedMister mentioned, it seems to be a connector issue. I at least hope this is the only problematic connector.

This is what the main harness connector looks like:



It seems to have some gooey orange substance that has seeped into some of the pin holes.

Anyone have an idea on how to go about cleaning this thing?
check out some Deoxit spray products, if you dig there are small round brush kits that will work perfectly, they make the kits for this exact type of cleaning, then do not forget to pack with dielectric and if you ride wet or spray wash your bike with water put some shrink tubing over your connectors then down each side about 6", pack the ends with dielectric grease, turkey base needle work well for that..

waterproof all connectors
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The issue with one at a time is the deposits on the connector body. An alternate is to buy new bodies and swap the pins into them. They aren't very expensive. Don't know about South Africa but here's the female.

"The shroud was inside out"
It was rolled back as part of disconnecting the connector at some time in the past - and the idiot (apparently not you) didn't bother to put it back after reconnecting. That changed it from an inferior weather seal to none.
I don't think I'll be able to get that here. So I will probably have to either to get a used body and swap out with that, if it's bad enough, or try and clean the current one out.

The "inferior weather seal" :)ROFLMAO:) didn't make sense when I looked at the shroud and wondered which direction it should be pointing. Because if it's pointed the "correct" way and it's raining, water will get in, and with how I found it, water coming down will get in. The design doesn't make sense to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
check out some Deoxit spray products, if you dig there are small round brush kits that will work perfectly, they make the kits for this exact type of cleaning, then do not forget to pack with dielectric and if you ride wet or spray wash your bike with water put some shrink tubing over your connectors then down each side about 6", pack the ends with dielectric grease, turkey base needle work well for that..

waterproof all connectors
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. It would probably serve me well to try and inspect and apply some dielectric to the other connecters, to prevent this from happening to them as well.

I don't commute anymore, so rides in the rain are mostly when getting caught out - most of the summer and spring were filled with rain this side.
 
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