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K6 GSXR 600 Cranking but not Starting. HELP?

2K views 25 replies 6 participants last post by  Anthony Staiger 
#1 · (Edited)
This is my first post btw!!

I was riding home from school one day when my bike died, i took it home and charged the battery but it seemed like it wasn't holding charge. i Took a look at my rectifier and it was completely melted. I replaced it with a Mosfet R/R and also replaced my battery just to be safe, and now its not starting at all. :crying:

My battery voltage with the bike off is 13.1V, i can hear my fuel pump prime when i hit the kill switch but its just not starting up when i'm cranking it. I cant bump start it either. It was running fine before i had to replace my rectifier.

Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong with it?

FYI it has 36,000 kms and i haven't replaced the stator or tested it yet.

***UPDATE***
It was my power commander, my rectifier fried it when it went out, so i bought a new one and it started up just fine, thanks to everyone who helped me on this thread.
Im just happy to be back on the road.:grin2:
 
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#4 ·
Maybe bad ground at the starter? I would volt meter the starter, make sure both + and - are there aswell as starter signal. If theres both + and - without starter then I would trace where that leads you to.
 
#7 ·
Are you saying that the bike died, you replaced the parts and it hasn't ran since it initially died?

Do a site search for "dealer mode." Once you jump the connection, try to start the bike, and instead of FI flashing, it will actually give you a code. Look up the code, and that's your issue.
 
#9 ·
Yeah I can see CHEC before starting with the kill switch in run and then after failing to start I see the FI light flashing and then it says CHEC. I’ll the dealer mode but I’m not sure how to do it. Thanks though, hopefully I’ll finally be able to ride after this. It’s killing me having to ride my R3 everyday lmao
 
#17 ·
Yeah I can see CHEC before starting with the kill switch in run and then after failing to start I see the FI light flashing and then it says CHEC.
I just noticed this (and the fact that you say that you get "CHEC" while craking above) due to JK's comment. "CHEC" on the dash means that the ECU isn't communicating with the dash. That could happen for various reasons (one of them being that the ECU is fried as JK mentions), but whatever the reason, if the ECU isn't communicating with the dash it can't transmit codes, so you shouldn't be getting a flashing "FI". You also shouldn't be seeing C00 as you do when switching to dealer mode.

So either you're not being precise on when "CHEC" is displayed and when the coolant temperature or "FI" is displayed, or something very weird is happening. Statistically speaking, the former is more likely. Try this: pull the sidestand up, switch to neutral and leave the engine stop switch to "STOP". You should see "CHEC" on the dash. Now switch to "RUN" and wait for a second. Does the "CHEC" not go away? If so, can you crank the bike while "CHEC" is showing? When does it eventually go away? Only when "FI" starts flashing?
 
#15 ·
This is my first post btw!!

I was riding home from school one day when my bike died, i took it home and charged the battery but it seemed like it wasn't holding charge. i Took a look at my rectifier and it was completely melted. I replaced it with a Mosfet R/R and also replaced my battery just to be safe, and now its not starting at all. :crying:
Yeah I can see CHEC before starting with the kill switch in run
I'd say the ECU is fried. Pretty common on K6-K7 models. :)
 
#21 ·
I gave the wrong information lol. When I turn the key on the bike it says CHEC, and once I put the kill switch to “Run”, it displays engine temperature like normal, then once it fails to start, I’ll get the FI light. I really hope my ECU isn’t fried because it’ll be such a pain in the ass to replace. Thanks for the input.
 
#25 ·
While you could have problems with your pump, the codes you get do not indicate that. I would suggest concentrating on the injectors first therefore. If you get a service manual for your bike (which you should do if you intend to do you own diagnosing/fixing) and study the wiring diagram at the end (ditto), you'll notice that the injectors have a common Y/R wire connecting them to battery voltage and separate leads going to the ECU. The latter switches these to ground internally to energize each injector as required. What this means, is that either all 4 injectors hae failed individually, or the common +12V connection has been broken, leaving them all powerless. Statistically, the latter is much more likely and to determine whether it is the case, you should measure the voltage on the Y/R leads going into the injectors with a DMM (red probe on the Y/R lead, black probe on the negative battery pole or known good ground point; should read battery voltage).
 
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