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Discussion Starter #21
I'd say the ECU is fried. Pretty common on K6-K7 models. :)
I gave the wrong information lol. When I turn the key on the bike it says CHEC, and once I put the kill switch to “Run”, it displays engine temperature like normal, then once it fails to start, I’ll get the FI light. I really hope my ECU isn’t fried because it’ll be such a pain in the ass to replace. Thanks for the input.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Okay so I’ve made a breakthrough. I was wrong when I said it was reading CHEC while cranking. When I turn the bike on it says CHEC, then when I hit the kill switch to the “run” position my engine temperature pops up like normal, then once the bike fails to start after cranking it, it displays the FI light. The reason I wasn’t getting codes was as Macbayne said, I didn’t have it in dealer mode after it failed to start. I successfully got codes from the dash that were C32-C35 which is the “injector signal #1, 2, 3, & 4”. I’m researching this as I’m writing. But what do you guys think it could be? I can hear the Fuel pump prime so I thought it wasn’t a fuel injection issue but I must not be getting fuel. I’ve been reading about it and people are saying my fuel pump probably has bad pressure. I’ll look into this tonight. Wish me Luck, and thanks for everyone helping in this thread, it really means a lot to me.😊
I Also wanted to add that I have a Power commander III and have read that this could be causing the problem, but I don’t want to reset it and have remap it. Would there be any way around this?
 

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I Also wanted to add that I have a Power commander III and have read that this could be causing the problem, but I don’t want to reset it and have remap it. Would there be any way around this?
Yes, there is. Hook up your computer and copy/save the map.

There are a few places that you could be mis-connected. It's gonna take a while.

First place to look is if the PC is getting powered. Disconnect it at the power source and measure if there is voltage between the supply side and the PC side. Next, hook it back to power and then disconnect its ground side. Turn the ignition on and see if there is voltage there. In either case, there should be a voltage.

The hardest places to look is where the PC is connected to the main harness and then finally, you gotta check the connectors at the injectors. I bet your problem will be one of those four places, and if it isn't, if you remove the PC altogether, your bike will fire up and you know the unit is dickered.
 

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I Also wanted to add that I have a Power commander III and have read that this could be causing the problem, but I don’t want to reset it and have remap it. Would there be any way around this?
Did you reconnect the PC's ground wire? Wouldn't be the first time...
 

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While you could have problems with your pump, the codes you get do not indicate that. I would suggest concentrating on the injectors first therefore. If you get a service manual for your bike (which you should do if you intend to do you own diagnosing/fixing) and study the wiring diagram at the end (ditto), you'll notice that the injectors have a common Y/R wire connecting them to battery voltage and separate leads going to the ECU. The latter switches these to ground internally to energize each injector as required. What this means, is that either all 4 injectors hae failed individually, or the common +12V connection has been broken, leaving them all powerless. Statistically, the latter is much more likely and to determine whether it is the case, you should measure the voltage on the Y/R leads going into the injectors with a DMM (red probe on the Y/R lead, black probe on the negative battery pole or known good ground point; should read battery voltage).
 
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