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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is my first post btw!!

I was riding home from school one day when my bike died, i took it home and charged the battery but it seemed like it wasn't holding charge. i Took a look at my rectifier and it was completely melted. I replaced it with a Mosfet R/R and also replaced my battery just to be safe, and now its not starting at all. :crying:

My battery voltage with the bike off is 13.1V, i can hear my fuel pump prime when i hit the kill switch but its just not starting up when i'm cranking it. I cant bump start it either. It was running fine before i had to replace my rectifier.

Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong with it?

FYI it has 36,000 kms and i haven't replaced the stator or tested it yet.

***UPDATE***
It was my power commander, my rectifier fried it when it went out, so i bought a new one and it started up just fine, thanks to everyone who helped me on this thread.
Im just happy to be back on the road.:grin2:
 

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Maybe bad ground at the starter? I would volt meter the starter, make sure both + and - are there aswell as starter signal. If theres both + and - without starter then I would trace where that leads you to.
 

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Since you can hear the pump prime, I assume you don't see CHEC on the dash. Do you see FI flashing?
 

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Are you saying that the bike died, you replaced the parts and it hasn't ran since it initially died?

Do a site search for "dealer mode." Once you jump the connection, try to start the bike, and instead of FI flashing, it will actually give you a code. Look up the code, and that's your issue.
 

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Yeah i can see CHEC when cranking the starter and then the FI light starts flashing when i stop hitting the starter.
Are you sure you see CHEC *while* cranking? If that's the case it would be unlikely to display FI after the failed starting attempt. Perhaps you see CHEC, before setting the engine stop switch to RUN? That would be normal.

Other than that +1 to the recommendation of switching to dealer mode. I expect a CMPS related code.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah I can see CHEC before starting with the kill switch in run and then after failing to start I see the FI light flashing and then it says CHEC. I’ll the dealer mode but I’m not sure how to do it. Thanks though, hopefully I’ll finally be able to ride after this. It’s killing me having to ride my R3 everyday lmao
 

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As MacBayne suggested, do a site search for dealer mode. There are various ways to do it, either with a dedicated switch, which would be the preferred way, or with a paper clip or some other jumper.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
As MacBayne suggested, do a site search for dealer mode. There are various ways to do it, either with a dedicated switch, which would be the preferred way, or with a paper clip or some other jumper.
I’m want to try dealer mode but I can’t find the cable for it. I’ll keep looking at hopefully it will lead me to my problem
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, any other suggestions guys? What could it be? Dealer mode isn't an option. :facepalm
Good news is that I found dealer mode and I got it working. The bad news is that I don’t get a code, just -C00. I’m going to test for spark tonight because there’s only so many things it could be. Now does anyone have more suggestions? Lol
 

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This is my first post btw!!

I was riding home from school one day when my bike died, i took it home and charged the battery but it seemed like it wasn't holding charge. i Took a look at my rectifier and it was completely melted. I replaced it with a Mosfet R/R and also replaced my battery just to be safe, and now its not starting at all. :crying:
Yeah I can see CHEC before starting with the kill switch in run
I'd say the ECU is fried. Pretty common on K6-K7 models. :)
 

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Good news is that I found dealer mode and I got it working. The bad news is that I don’t get a code, just -C00. I’m going to test for spark tonight because there’s only so many things it could be. Now does anyone have more suggestions? Lol
Codes aren't retained when you switch the power on and off. If you need to crank the bike for FI to show up on the dash, then you need to either crank the bike after switching to dealer mode, until you get a code, or, alternatively, switch to dealer mode after FI has started flashing and without switching off power first. Since FI has shown up on the dash, the ECU does throw a code and it's your best hint at what the problem might be.
 

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Yeah I can see CHEC before starting with the kill switch in run and then after failing to start I see the FI light flashing and then it says CHEC.
I just noticed this (and the fact that you say that you get "CHEC" while craking above) due to JK's comment. "CHEC" on the dash means that the ECU isn't communicating with the dash. That could happen for various reasons (one of them being that the ECU is fried as JK mentions), but whatever the reason, if the ECU isn't communicating with the dash it can't transmit codes, so you shouldn't be getting a flashing "FI". You also shouldn't be seeing C00 as you do when switching to dealer mode.

So either you're not being precise on when "CHEC" is displayed and when the coolant temperature or "FI" is displayed, or something very weird is happening. Statistically speaking, the former is more likely. Try this: pull the sidestand up, switch to neutral and leave the engine stop switch to "STOP". You should see "CHEC" on the dash. Now switch to "RUN" and wait for a second. Does the "CHEC" not go away? If so, can you crank the bike while "CHEC" is showing? When does it eventually go away? Only when "FI" starts flashing?
 

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Put the bike in dealer mode, THEN try to start it. I bet that you will get a code.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I just noticed this (and the fact that you say that you get "CHEC" while craking above) due to JK's comment. "CHEC" on the dash means that the ECU isn't communicating with the dash. That could happen for various reasons (one of them being that the ECU is fried as JK mentions), but whatever the reason, if the ECU isn't communicating with the dash it can't transmit codes, so you shouldn't be getting a flashing "FI". You also shouldn't be seeing C00 as you do when switching to dealer mode.

So either you're not being precise on when "CHEC" is displayed and when the coolant temperature or "FI" is displayed, or something very weird is happening. Statistically speaking, the former is more likely. Try this: pull the sidestand up, switch to neutral and leave the engine stop switch to "STOP". You should see "CHEC" on the dash. Now switch to "RUN" and wait for a second. Does the "CHEC" not go away? If so, can you crank the bike while "CHEC" is showing? When does it eventually go away? Only when "FI" starts flashing?
Okay so I’ve made a breakthrough. I was wrong when I said it was reading CHEC while cranking. When I turn the bike on it says CHEC, then when I hit the kill switch to the “run” position my engine temperature pops up like normal, then once the bike fails to start after cranking it, it displays the FI light. The reason I wasn’t getting codes was as Macbayne said, I didn’t have it in dealer mode after it failed to start. I successfully got codes from the dash that were C32-C35 which is the “injector signal #1, 2, 3, & 4”. I’m researching this as I’m writing. But what do you guys think it could be? I can hear the Fuel pump prime so I thought it wasn’t a fuel injection issue but I must not be getting fuel. I’ve been reading about it and people are saying my fuel pump probably has bad pressure. I’ll look into this tonight. Wish me Luck, and thanks for everyone helping in this thread, it really means a lot to me.😊
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yup it worked and I got C32-35, which is injector signal for all 4 injectors. Seems to be that I have a fuel pump issue. Thanks for the help.
 
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Anthony Staiger
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