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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. I know this topic has been beaten to death, but I’d like to not spend money on parts hoping to fix an issue, so I figured some diagnostic help would be good.

Bike: k6 gsxr 600, 17,xxx km. yoshimura slip on + midp

issues: stutters and almost misfires at low rpm (below 4k rpm) when engaging clutch or light throttle, such as coming off the line or slow 90° corners in a neighbourhood. Then at WOT it will notrev past 10k. In neutral will rev fast and freely to 10k and hit a wall. Under load it is definitely slower but still reaches 10k before bogging.

digging deeper: filled tank with fresh 94 and a fuel injector cleaner. Did not help. went through the whole tank and did nothing. Put in fresh 94 and changed the oil.

removed air filter which was filthy, new one on order, brushed and vacuumed clean. Drained tank and removed. Tank itself was very clean on the inside. the fuel filter sock was 100% clogged.

I have a parts cleaner so I took apart the pump assembly and cleaned everything. Not brand new but very clean. Put it back together and put in a bit of fresh 94. all same problems still persist.

starts cold or warm without any issue. New battery and no charging issues to my knowledge.


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Discussion Starter #2
So at work today I just put some thought towards it and did some research on my breaks.

  • I don’t think it’s the fuel pump. if it were a fuel flow issue I think cleaning the pump, tank and filter should have had some sort of an effect after, but it did not.
  • no FI light or any other trouble lights on the dash
  • I have found the k6/k7 is suppose to flow ~168mL in 10 seconds. So I could always hook up a bottle to the fuel like and crank, see how much flows to know if it’s good
  • I just found out about the ”diagnostic mode” so tomorrow I’ll set that up and pull any codes
  • I’m starting to think it will be STVA or intake related. On priming I don’t hear the telltale ‘clicking’ noise but I can always pull the air box and visually check they secondaries open and close on priming
 

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  • I don’t think it’s the fuel pump. if it were a fuel flow issue I think cleaning the pump, tank and filter should have had some sort of an effect after, but it did not.
  • I have found the k6/k7 is suppose to flow ~168mL in 10 seconds. So I could always hook up a bottle to the fuel like and crank, see how much flows to know if it’s good.
Most likely it's the high pressure fuel filter. Do the fuel flow test properly. Not the way you're planning to do it. :)
 

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Dreaming of buttsecks for years...
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^^^ What he said. There's a video of a guy doing it on a 2005, but the process is the same for any GSXR.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How do you guys know how I’m going to test it? Hook up fuel hose to the outlet of the pump to a clear container and either jump it with a 12v source or just use the priming system. Unless that’s going to blow the bike up lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Put it into dealer mode, no codes showed up just C00

571548


so I hooked up a fuel line to the tank and a bottle. Manual says 168mL in 10 seconds. I decided to use the priming system to turn on the pump. I clicked it on 3 times, and barely got anything. You’ll see two lines on the bottle, one at 150mL and the other at 200mL. Yet I have maybe 60-75mL.

I guess a new pump or just the whole assembly

571549
 

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Nothing like deducing the issue step by step. On the bright side, you’ve now learned to troubleshoot many things, which only makes you more knowledgeable later. Keep us posted on the progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So before I drop coin on a new pump, I figured I’d take the assembly out of my ‘05 gsxr 600 and drop it in. Connections are the same, but level sender unit is totally different. I can live with a low fuel light while I diagnose the issue.

fired right up, would freely rev to redline. Took it for a spin to the grocery store and on the hwy it easily rowed through the gears to 200+kmh


And then of course after a tunnel run it completely dropped a cylinder. It sounded like a Subaru and would randomly cut between 3 and 4 cylinders. So now I’m sure it’s a spark issue. Riding it home I could feel it going between 3 and 4 cylinders, But under WOT it seemed to be 4. So the issue has changed considering the last video I posted it wouldn’t rev past 10k

someone on here said check the coil packs are seated, and change the spark plugs as it’s cheap. I suppose that’s the next step. Spent all day swapping suspension in my focus RS so I didn’t get to that today.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Pulled the plugs and coils. Inspected the primary and secondary throttle bodies and they seem to operate correctly. All 4 coils passed the visual inspection. No signs of overheating etc. No electrical smell.

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plugs were pretty old. Clean, not fouled and not wet or oily. Gap was correct and the electrodes were in good shape, but the rest of the plugs showed obvious corrosion. For 20 bucks just picked up the same OEM NGK’s

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fires right up, idles perfectly. Took it for a quick run around the neighbourhood and it felt like a whole new bike. I will assume thatz
was the culprit. Forecast says rain for the next few days so I’ll update you guys next chance I get
 
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