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Discussion Starter #1
buddy has a 06/600 that burns out both the hi/lo beam bulbs.
stator/rectifier were recently replaced with good quality parts, volts on battery and the head light wiring are 13.3 at idle and at 5000rpm, has burnt out 2 sets of bulbs within ~1 hour after installing them.
any ideas??
 

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I know things... A lot of things.
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13.3V at the battery at 5000rpm is actually below spec. It shouldn't charge the battery properly, so perhaps you're not measuring correctly? I can't think of anything else that would blow bulbs at that rate, other than improper bulb type, or a faulty batch of bulbs of course. If you are measuring correctly and leaving aside the charging aspect for the time being, perhaps it'd be a good idea, to blip the throttle and see what the voltage is doing at higher engine speeds. No need to reach the limiter, of course.
 

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OEM bulbs and sockets? What does the wiring look like? Is the engine running every time? Lead acid or Lithium battery? Any other electrical mods? Are the hi/lo beams switched frequently?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OEM bulbs and sockets? What does the wiring look like? Is the engine running every time? Lead acid or Lithium battery? Any other electrical mods? Are the hi/lo beams switched frequently?
Wiring looks good, the R/R was recently replaced with a Ricks unit, lead acid battery thats almost new, no other mods. Engine is running when the bulbs pop. Hi/LO beams very seldom switched. Owner is going to check all grounds, if they are good will replace the R/R with new OEM one. Only thing I can think of is bad R/R??
 

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It could be a few things... a lot of things. lol. I am leaning more toward a short or a ground where there shouldn't be.

You should test the voltage at the socket at a variety of rpms.

I am not aware of the numbers that Ricks has for performance, but I do know that the output voltage of the OEM R/R should be 14 to 15.5 at 5000 rpm.

Disconnect the stator and run the engine at 5000 rpm and measure voltage between all phases. It should be 65V or a bit more between each phase.

We know it's an overvolt/overcurrent somewhere...
 
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